Georgia (საქართველო) is an absolute dream destination for a road trip adventure. This detailed one-week Georgia road trip itinerary covers the best places in the country that you can visit in 7 days.

Georgia is a compact Caucasus country with an incredible diversity of landscapes! Dramatic mountain roads wind through ancient wine regions, medieval fortress towns, alpine valleys, and some of the most breathtaking mountain passes in Europe. Therefore, embarking on a Georgia road trip is hands down the best way to explore this fascinating former Soviet republic.

With your own wheels, you’ll be able to discover the best places in Georgia at your own pace. While some sights can be reached by marshrutka (local minibus) or organized tours, many of the most spectacular locations are only accessible by car.

Based on my unforgettable week exploring this remarkable country, I’ve put together this comprehensive 7-day Georgia road trip itinerary covering Tbilisi, the wine country of Kakheti, the stunning Caucasus Mountains, and the ancient cave city of Uplistsikhe. It includes distances traveled, provides an interactive map, and suggests the best places to stay in Georgia.

Car rental tip 1: I recommend using Discovercars for renting a car in Georgia. This car search website compares rates between different rental companies and can help you save up to 70% on your rental. It also offers reasonably priced full coverage insurance options.

Car rental tip 2: For local suppliers with competitive rates, check Localrent, which specializes in the Caucasus region and often doesn’t require a deposit.

Stay: I booked all my accommodation in Georgia on Booking.com and had excellent experiences throughout.

Travel Insurance: Purchase reliable travel insurance at Heymondo or SafetyWing (the most budget-friendly option on the market).

Check the best outdoor & adventure tours in Georgia on Manawa.

Check the best guided tours on Viator.

Summary of My Georgia Road Trip Route

Day 1-2: Tbilisi Old Town, Narikala Fortress, Sulfur Baths
Day 3: Kakheti Wine Region: Sighnaghi, Bodbe Monastery, Wine Tasting
Day 4: Mtskheta, Ananuri Fortress, Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi
Day 5: Gergeti Trinity Church, Kazbegi Mountains
Day 6: Gudauri, Jvari Pass, Gori, Uplistsikhe Cave Town
Day 7: Return to Tbilisi via Gori and Stalin Museum

If I had 10 days in Georgia, my itinerary would include Tbilisi – Kakheti Wine Region – Kazbegi – Svaneti region with Mestia and Ushguli – Uplistsikhe – back to Tbilisi.

If I had 5 days in Georgia, my itinerary would include Tbilisi – Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi – Gergeti Trinity Church – Mtskheta – Uplistsikhe.

Georgia Road Trip Planning Tips

Renting a Car in Georgia

Major car rental companies operate from Tbilisi International Airport. However, I strongly suggest checking either Discovercars or Localrent first. These car search websites typically offer lower rates compared to booking directly with major brands. Many travelers rent cars with local Georgian companies, which often provide better service and lower prices.

Driving in Georgia

Driving is absolutely the best way to explore Georgia’s diverse landscapes. Having your own vehicle allows you to access remote mountain villages, ancient monasteries, and scenic viewpoints that would be impossible to reach otherwise. Plus, you can travel on your own schedule without depending on infrequent marshrutkas.

Georgia is relatively small, so distances between major attractions are manageable. However, driving in Georgia requires patience and attention. Roads vary dramatically in quality – highways connecting major cities are generally good, but mountain roads can be narrow, winding, and occasionally unpaved.

The Georgian Military Highway is spectacular but demands careful driving, especially the section leading to Kazbegi. Hairpin turns, steep drop-offs, and occasional livestock on the road are all part of the adventure. Local drivers can be aggressive and often overtake on blind curves, so defensive driving is essential.

Another consideration: road signs are often in Georgian script only, so having offline maps downloaded on your phone (Google Maps or Maps.me) is crucial. Also, fill up your tank before heading into mountainous regions, as gas stations become sparse.

Where to Stay During the Georgia Road Trip

Throughout my Georgia road trip, I prioritized staying in guesthouses and family-run hotels rather than large chain hotels. This approach gave me incredible insights into Georgian hospitality and culture. Georgians are famously welcoming, and staying in guesthouses often includes amazing home-cooked meals and local wine.

When searching for accommodation in Georgia with a rental car, parking is usually not an issue outside of central Tbilisi. Most guesthouses and hotels offer free parking.

Accommodation: I always book through Booking.com, which offers a wide variety of options for every budget. As a returning customer, you receive Genius discounts (10-30%) and special mobile-only prices through their app.

Tip: Always check cancellation policies and choose flexible options when possible. This saved me when unexpected road conditions forced me to adjust my itinerary.

Here’s a quick summary of where I stayed during my road trip:

Hotel List:

Tbilisi Old Town – Fabrika Hostel & Gallery – 2 nights (beginning and end of trip)
Sighnaghi (Kakheti) – Pheasant’s Tears Guesthouse – 1 night
Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) – Rooms Hotel Kazbegi – 2 consecutive nights
Gori – Guesthouse Natia – 1 night

I booked all my Georgia accommodation through Booking.com. You’ll find more detailed comments on each place later in this post.

What to Expect in Georgia?

In Georgia, you’ll experience a unique blend of European and Asian influences that creates something entirely its own. You’ll be amazed by Tbilisi’s charming old town with its colorful balconies and cobblestone streets, challenge yourself hiking to the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church with snow-capped Mount Kazbek as backdrop, explore ancient cave cities carved into cliffsides, and indulge in some of the world’s oldest wine traditions in the picturesque Kakheti region.

Georgian cuisine is a revelation – from khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) to khinkali (soup dumplings) to the endless supra (traditional feast) accompanied by homemade wine. The legendary Georgian hospitality means you’ll often be invited to share meals and toasts with locals.

How Many Days Do You Need in Georgia?

Based on my experience, one week in Georgia is perfect for hitting the major highlights without feeling rushed. You can explore Tbilisi, venture into the wine country, conquer the Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi, and still have time for historic sites like Uplistsikhe.

However, if you have 10-14 days, I’d strongly recommend adding Svaneti region to experience some of the most remote and beautiful mountain villages in the Caucasus. The UNESCO-protected villages of Mestia and Ushguli are absolutely worth the extra time.

In this post, I’ll highlight the absolute must-see places for those with limited time, as well as places I’d recommend skipping.

Note: If you fly into Kutaisi instead of Tbilisi, you can easily adjust this itinerary. The same applies if you’re entering Georgia overland from Armenia, Azerbaijan, or Turkey.

When to Visit Georgia?

The best time for a Georgia road trip is during the shoulder seasons of May-June or September-October. These months offer pleasant weather, fewer tourists, and spectacular scenery. September is particularly special as it’s harvest season in the wine regions.

Summer (July-August) can be very hot in Tbilisi and the lowlands but perfect for mountain hiking in Kazbegi and Svaneti. This is peak season, so book accommodation in advance.

Winter (December-March) transforms Gudauri and Bakuriani into ski resorts, but the Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi may be closed due to snow. Tbilisi, however, is magical during winter with fewer tourists.

Spring (April-May) sees wildflowers blooming across the countryside, though mountain passes may still have snow.

Budget for Your Road Trip in Georgia

Georgia is incredibly affordable compared to most European countries, making it perfect for budget travelers. Here’s a rough breakdown of expected costs:

Accommodation: €15-€40/night for a comfortable guesthouse or hotel room
Dine out: €10-€25/day (Georgian food is delicious and cheap!)
Car Rental: €15-35/day when booked in advance
Fuel: Around €0.90-1.00/liter (2024 prices)
Wine tasting: €5-15 per winery visit
Activities: Most churches and fortresses are free; national park entries €2-5

Overall, you can have an amazing week in Georgia for €400-600 per person including car rental, accommodation, food, and activities (excluding flights).

Georgia 7-Day Road Trip Itinerary Day by Day

For those of you who want to experience the best of what Georgia has to offer, here’s my day-by-day breakdown of the route I took during my incredible week-long road trip through this Caucasus gem.

Day 1-2: Tbilisi – Georgia’s Charming Capital

Distance covered: 15 KM (exploring the city)
Total drive time: N/A (walking and metro recommended)
Overnight in: Tbilisi Old Town for 2 consecutive nights

Tbilisi is the perfect starting point for your Georgia adventure. This ancient city, founded in the 5th century, sits dramatically in a valley along the Mtkvari River, with colorful houses clinging to steep hillsides. The blend of medieval churches, Art Nouveau buildings, Soviet architecture, and ultra-modern structures like the Bridge of Peace creates a fascinating urban landscape.

I picked up my rental car at Tbilisi Airport but immediately parked it at my accommodation. Trust me, exploring Tbilisi Old Town on foot is far better than navigating the chaotic traffic and confusing one-way streets.

Things to Do in Tbilisi

Wander the cobblestone streets of Old Town (Dzveli Tbilisi)

Getting lost in Tbilisi’s Old Town is magical. The neighborhood is a maze of narrow lanes, vine-covered balconies, and hidden courtyards. Each corner reveals something new – whether it’s a 6th-century church, a quirky art gallery, or a cozy wine bar serving qvevri wine.

Start your exploration at Shardeni Street, the heart of the Old Town, lined with cafes and restaurants. Then wander through the surrounding alleys, letting curiosity guide you.

USEFUL TIP: Visit early morning (7-8 AM) to photograph the iconic balconies without crowds. The soft morning light makes the colorful wooden balconies glow beautifully.

Climb to Narikala Fortress for panoramic views

This ancient fortress overlooking Tbilisi dates back to the 4th century and offers the best views of the entire city. You have two options to reach it:

Take the cable car from Rike Park (2.50 GEL each way) – this scenic ride itself is an experience
Hike up the steep path from the Old Town (free but exhausting in summer heat)

I took the cable car up and walked down through the Botanical Gardens, which was the perfect combination. The fortress itself is free to explore, and sunset here is absolutely magical with the city lights beginning to twinkle below.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: The best photo spot is actually on the path between the fortress and the Mother Georgia statue. From here, you can capture both the fortress and the Old Town with the Mtkvari River below.

Experience the legendary sulfur baths

No visit to Tbilisi is complete without soaking in the historic sulfur baths in the Abanotubani district. These distinctive domed bathhouses with their Persian-style architecture have been welcoming travelers since the 17th century. Legend says King Vakhtang I founded Tbilisi after his falcon fell into the hot springs during a hunt.

I visited Chreli Abano, a more affordable option at around 15 GEL per hour for a private room. For a luxurious experience, try the famous Orbeliani Baths (expect to pay 40-60 GEL). Book in advance during peak season.

INSIDER TIP: Go in the late afternoon (4-5 PM) when it’s less crowded. Bring your own towel to save a few extra lari. And yes, the sulfur smell is strong, but your skin will feel amazing afterward!

Visit the Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba)

This massive cathedral, completed in 2004, is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. Standing 84 meters tall, its golden dome dominates Tbilisi’s skyline. The interior is stunning with beautiful frescoes and an atmosphere of reverent tranquility.

Entry is free, but dress modestly (women should cover shoulders and wear skirts; scarves are provided). The cathedral is about 2 km from the Old Town – either take a short taxi ride or metro to Avlabari station.

Explore Rustaveli Avenue and Freedom Square

Rustaveli Avenue is Tbilisi’s main boulevard, home to the Opera House, National Museum, and Parliament building. It’s perfect for an evening stroll, especially when the buildings are illuminated.

Freedom Square marks the end of Rustaveli Avenue and the beginning of the Old Town. The square features a golden statue of St. George (Georgia’s patron saint) slaying the dragon.

Ride the Funicular to Mtatsminda Park

For another perspective of Tbilisi, take the funicular railway up to Mtatsminda Park. The hilltop amusement park offers fantastic city views, especially at sunset. There’s also a restaurant with a viewing platform if you want dinner with a view.

The funicular costs 2 GEL each way and runs until late evening.

Cross the Bridge of Peace

This ultra-modern pedestrian bridge, designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi, connects the Old Town with the newer districts. Made of glass and steel with LED lighting, it creates a striking contrast with the historic surroundings. Visit after dark when the LED lights create a spectacular display.

Eat, drink, and feast like a Georgian

Georgian cuisine deserves its own section because the food in Tbilisi is phenomenal! Here’s what you absolutely must try:

Khachapuri – cheese-filled bread that’s Georgia’s national dish. Try Adjarian khachapuri (boat-shaped with egg and butter on top)
Khinkali – juicy soup dumplings traditionally filled with meat and spices
Lobio – slow-cooked bean stew served in a clay pot
Mtsvadi – Georgian grilled meat skewers
Churchkhela – traditional candy made from grape juice and nuts (looks like a candle)

Restaurant recommendations:

Shavi Lomi – excellent traditional Georgian food in a cozy setting
Café Gabriadze – charming café by the famous puppet theater
Barbarestan – upscale restaurant serving recipes from a 19th-century cookbook
Pasanauri – famous for the best khinkali in town

Wine tip: Try Georgian natural wine made in qvevri (clay vessels buried underground). Georgia has an 8,000-year wine-making tradition – the oldest in the world! Many wine bars in Tbilisi offer tastings, or visit Vino Underground or Wine Factory N1 for excellent selections.

PARKING TIP: If you’re staying in Old Town, look for accommodation with parking included. Street parking is difficult and confusing with payment systems. Alternatively, park at your hotel outside the center and use the metro (1 GEL per ride) to reach Old Town.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi?

I stayed at Fabrika Hostel & Gallery – a converted Soviet sewing factory turned into a creative hub with a hostel, bars, restaurants, and co-working spaces. The atmosphere is fantastic with a young, international crowd. Private rooms start around €25/night.

For those wanting traditional Georgian hospitality, stay in a guesthouse in the Old Town like Guest House Zemeli or Old Tbilisi Garden.

If you prefer boutique hotels, Stamba Hotel (another converted Soviet factory) or Rooms Hotel Tbilisi offer stylish accommodation with excellent service.

Book your Tbilisi accommodation through Booking.com.

Day 3: Kakheti Wine Region – Sighnaghi, Bodbe Monastery, and Wine Tasting

Distance covered: 240 KM (round trip from Tbilisi)
Total drive time: 3 HRS 30 MIN
Overnight in: Sighnaghi

After immersing myself in Tbilisi’s urban energy, I was ready to explore Georgia’s famous wine country. Kakheti region, located in eastern Georgia, produces about 70% of the country’s wine and is home to some of the most picturesque landscapes in the country.

I left Tbilisi around 8 AM to make the most of the day. The drive east on E60 highway toward Kakheti is straightforward and scenic, with the Caucasus Mountains visible in the distance.

SIGHNAGHI – The Town of Love

Sighnaghi is often called the “Town of Love” because of its 24-hour wedding registry (couples can get married any time of day!). This small hilltop town is one of Georgia’s most charming destinations, with cobblestone streets, colorful wooden balconies, and stunning views over the Alazani Valley toward the Caucasus Mountains.

The entire town is surrounded by an 18th-century defensive wall with 23 towers, most of which you can climb for panoramic views. Walking along the wall at sunset is absolutely magical – the golden light illuminates the valley below while the mountains turn purple and pink.

Things to do in Sighnaghi:

Wander the picturesque streets – Sighnaghi is tiny (you can walk the entire town in 30 minutes), but every corner is Instagram-worthy with its pastel-colored houses and mountain views
Walk the defensive wall – climb the watchtowers for the best views
Visit Sighnaghi Museum – small but interesting collection of Georgian art and archaeological finds (5 GEL entry)
Have lunch with a view – numerous restaurants offer terraces overlooking the valley

Restaurant recommendation: Pheasant’s Tears is both a winery and restaurant serving delicious Georgian food with natural wines. I had an incredible lunch here with a view that I’ll never forget.

BODBE MONASTERY

Just 2 km from Sighnaghi sits Bodbe Monastery, one of Georgia’s most important pilgrimage sites. This beautiful monastery complex is the burial place of St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century.

The monastery itself is stunning with colorful frescoes and a peaceful atmosphere. But the real highlight is the location – perched on a hillside with sweeping views over the Alazani Valley.

If you have energy, walk down the steep path (several hundred steps!) to St. Nino’s Spring, a holy spring believed to have healing properties. The walk down takes about 15 minutes, but climbing back up in the Georgian heat is brutal – be prepared!

Entry: Free (dress modestly as it’s an active monastery)

WINE TASTING IN KAKHETI

The main reason to visit Kakheti is, of course, the wine! Georgia is the birthplace of wine with an unbroken 8,000-year tradition of winemaking using qvevri – large clay vessels buried underground for fermentation.

Kakheti has dozens of wineries ranging from large commercial operations to small family-owned cellars. I visited two very different wineries:

Pheasant’s Tears (in Sighnaghi) – A small organic winery run by American John Wurdeman who fell in love with Georgia and has been making natural wines here since 2007. The tasting costs around 15 GEL and includes 5-6 wines with detailed explanations. John’s passion for Georgian wine culture is infectious, and the wines are exceptional. Highly recommend!

Kindzmarauli Corporation (between Telavi and Sighnaghi) – A much larger, more commercial operation, but they produce excellent semi-sweet wines that Kakheti is famous for. The tour includes visiting the qvevri cellar and tasting room (20 GEL for tour and tasting).

DRIVING TIP: Wine tasting and driving obviously don’t mix well. Either designate a driver in your group, hire a driver for the day (around 100 GEL), or join an organized tour from Tbilisi. Many wineries also let you spit the wine during tastings if you’re driving.

Alternatively, you can do what I did – stay overnight in Sighnaghi and visit wineries in the afternoon, then enjoy dinner and wine in town without worrying about driving.

Where to Stay in Kakheti?

I stayed at Pheasant’s Tears Guesthouse attached to the winery. The rooms are simple but comfortable with traditional Georgian decor, and breakfast is included (amazing homemade bread, cheese, and preserves). Plus, you’re literally steps away from great wine!

Other excellent options in Sighnaghi:

Kabadoni Hotel – boutique hotel with a pool and spectacular views
Old Sighnaghi – charming guesthouse in a restored 18th-century house

Book your Kakheti accommodation through Booking.com.

Day 4: Mtskheta, Ananuri Fortress, Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi

Distance covered: 160 KM
Total drive time: 3 HRS 30 MIN (without stops)
Overnight in: Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) for 2 consecutive nights

This day marks the beginning of what I consider the absolute highlight of any Georgia road trip – the legendary Georgian Military Highway leading to Kazbegi. I woke up early in Sighnaghi, drove back toward Tbilisi, and then headed north on what would become one of the most spectacular drives of my life.

The Georgian Military Highway (E117) is a historic route built in the 19th century connecting Georgia with Russia through the Caucasus Mountains. The 200+ kilometer road climbs from Tbilisi to the 2,379-meter Jvari Pass, offering jaw-dropping scenery at every turn.

MTSKHETA – Georgia’s Ancient Capital

Before tackling the mountain highway, I made my first stop at Mtskheta, located just 20 km north of Tbilisi where the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers meet. This ancient town was Georgia’s capital from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

This magnificent 11th-century cathedral is one of the most important religious sites in Georgia. According to legend, Christ’s robe is buried beneath the cathedral. The exterior stonework is beautiful, but the interior is breathtaking with soaring ceilings covered in frescoes.

I arrived around 9 AM and had the cathedral almost to myself for about 30 minutes before tour buses started arriving. The peaceful morning atmosphere with shafts of sunlight streaming through the windows was incredibly moving.

Entry: Free (dress modestly – women need head coverings and modest clothing)

Jvari Monastery

Perched dramatically on a rocky hilltop overlooking the confluence of the two rivers, 6th-century Jvari Monastery offers one of the most iconic views in Georgia. The monastery itself is small but architecturally significant as one of the earliest examples of Georgian church architecture.

The real reason to come here is the view – the panorama of Mtskheta below with the rivers joining and mountains in the background is simply stunning. This is one of the most photographed spots in Georgia, and for good reason.

To reach Jvari, drive up the winding road from Mtskheta (about 10 minutes). The road is narrow but paved. Parking is free at the top.

USEFUL TIP: Visit Jvari first thing in the morning or late afternoon for the best light and fewer tour groups. I went around 10 AM and it was already crowded.

ANANURI FORTRESS

After leaving Mtskheta, I continued north on the Georgian Military Highway. About 70 km from Tbilisi, you’ll see the stunning Ananuri Fortress Complex dramatically positioned on the shores of the Zhinvali Reservoir.

This 16th-century castle complex served as a seat of power for the Dukes of Aragvi. The fortress features two churches, residential buildings, and defensive walls – all beautifully preserved. The Church of the Assumption is covered in intricate stone carvings depicting biblical scenes, crosses, and geometric patterns.

But what makes Ananuri truly special is its location. The fortress sits right on the edge of the turquoise Zhinvali Reservoir with the Caucasus Mountains rising behind it. The combination of medieval architecture and natural beauty is breathtaking.

I spent about an hour here exploring the fortress grounds, climbing the watchtower for views, and taking what felt like hundreds of photos. There’s a small café at the entrance if you need refreshments.

Entry: 5 GEL
PARKING TIP: Large parking area available, but it fills up quickly with tour buses around 11 AM-2 PM. Try to visit earlier or later.

THE GEORGIAN MILITARY HIGHWAY TO KAZBEGI

After Ananuri, the real adventure begins. The highway climbs steadily through increasingly dramatic scenery. Every kilometer brings new vistas – deep river gorges, towering peaks, traditional stone villages, and the Tergi River rushing alongside the road.

This section of the drive requires concentration as the road is narrow with sharp turns, but it’s impossible not to be constantly distracted by the scenery. I stopped at least a dozen times to take photos, and I could have stopped a hundred more.

GUDAURI

About 40 km past Ananuri, you’ll reach Gudauri – Georgia’s premier ski resort at 2,200 meters elevation. In winter, this place is packed with skiers. In summer, it’s much quieter but the views are incredible. The ski lifts often operate in summer if you want to go higher into the mountains.

I stopped at the Gudauri View Point (also called Friendship Monument) – a Soviet-era circular mosaic monument offering 360-degree mountain views. The colorful mosaics depicting Georgian-Russian friendship seem surreal against the stark mountain landscape. This is another incredibly photogenic spot.

JVARI PASS (CROSS PASS)

The highest point on the Georgian Military Highway is Jvari Pass at 2,379 meters. The pass is marked by a stone cross (jvari means cross in Georgian) and offers panoramic views of the Caucasus peaks. On clear days, you can see Mount Kazbek (5,047m) towering in the distance.

The pass is also where you’ll often see locals selling honey, churchkhela, and wool products. The air is noticeably thinner up here, and even in summer, it can be cold and windy. Bring a jacket!

From Jvari Pass, the road descends dramatically into the Dariali Gorge – a spectacular river valley with sheer cliffs rising on both sides. This section is incredibly scenic but also the most nerve-wracking with narrow roads carved into the cliff face and occasional rockfall warnings.

ARRIVAL IN STEPANTSMINDA (KAZBEGI)

After about 3.5 hours of driving (plus countless photo stops), I finally arrived in Stepantsminda, commonly called Kazbegi. This small mountain town sits at 1,740 meters elevation in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, dominated by the magnificent Mount Kazbek.

Stepantsminda is the perfect base for exploring the region. The town itself is small with one main street lined with guesthouses, restaurants, and small shops. But the setting is absolutely magical – surrounded by towering peaks with the Gergeti Trinity Church visible high on the hillside above town.

I checked into my accommodation and immediately headed out to explore before sunset. The mountain air was crisp and clean, such a contrast from Tbilisi’s summer heat. I could already see Gergeti Trinity Church glowing in the late afternoon sun – tomorrow’s hiking destination.

USEFUL TIP: Fill up your gas tank in Gudauri or before – there are limited gas stations in Stepantsminda and they sometimes run out of fuel.

Where to Stay in Kazbegi?

I splurged and stayed at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi – a stunning boutique hotel with floor-to-ceiling windows offering unobstructed views of Mount Kazbek. The rooms are beautifully designed with modern amenities while respecting Georgian aesthetic. The on-site restaurant is excellent, and watching sunset from the terrace with a glass of Georgian wine was pure bliss.

Yes, it’s expensive by Georgian standards (around €120-150/night), but it’s worth every lari for the experience and the view. Book well in advance as it fills up quickly.

Budget alternatives:

Guest House Eter – family-run guesthouse with comfortable rooms and excellent home-cooked meals (around €30/night)
Stephantsminda Hotel – mid-range option with good views and modern rooms
Kazbegi Rooms – basic but clean budget accommodation

Book your Kazbegi accommodation through Booking.com.

Day 5: Gergeti Trinity Church and Hiking in Kazbegi Mountains

Distance covered: 15 KM (to trailhead and back)
Total drive time: 30 MIN
Overnight in: Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)

I woke up at 5:30 AM to the most spectacular sunrise I’ve ever witnessed. Mount Kazbek was glowing pink and orange in the early morning light, and I knew this was going to be an unforgettable day.

HIKE TO GERGETI TRINITY CHURCH

The iconic Gergeti Trinity Church (Tsminda Sameba) perched at 2,170 meters with Mount Kazbek looming behind it is probably the single most photographed location in Georgia. And trust me, it deserves every bit of hype.

There are three ways to reach the church:

1. Hike up (recommended!) – The trail starts from the center of Stepantsminda and climbs 400 meters over 5-6 km. It’s a moderate hike that took me about 1.5-2 hours up and 1 hour down. The path is well-marked and mostly follows a dirt road, though there are shortcuts through meadows that are more scenic.

2. Drive up – If you have a 4WD vehicle, you can drive all the way to the church (regular cars won’t make it due to steep, rough roads). Many guesthouses offer 4WD taxi service for around 50-60 GEL round trip.

3. Combination – Drive to the village of Gergeti (accessible by regular car) and hike the remaining 3 km.

I chose to hike the entire way, starting at 6:30 AM to avoid the heat and crowds. The morning light was perfect, and I had the trail mostly to myself for the first hour. The hike is challenging but manageable for anyone with reasonable fitness. Bring plenty of water and snacks.

THE CHURCH

When I finally reached Gergeti Trinity Church, I was completely breathless – both from the altitude and the absolutely stunning view. The 14th-century church sits in perfect harmony with its surroundings, with Mount Kazbek’s snow-covered peak rising dramatically behind it.

The church itself is small and simple, but the location is what makes it extraordinary. I spent about an hour just sitting on the hillside, soaking in the panoramic views of the valley below and the Caucasus peaks stretching in every direction.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: The best light for photographing the church is early morning (6-9 AM) or late afternoon (5-7 PM). Midday light is harsh and unflattering. If Mount Kazbek is covered in clouds (which happens often), be patient – the clouds usually clear by late morning or early afternoon.

USEFUL TIP: On weekends and during peak season (July-August), the church gets extremely crowded by 10 AM with both tourists and Georgian pilgrims. Starting early is essential for a peaceful experience.

ADDITIONAL HIKING OPTIONS IN KAZBEGI

After descending from Gergeti Trinity Church, I still had energy (and the weather was perfect), so I explored some other trails around Kazbegi:

Gveleti Waterfall

An easy 30-minute hike from the main road leads to this impressive waterfall. The trail follows a river through a scenic gorge. It’s a great option if you want something less strenuous than Gergeti Church. I found it pleasant but not essential if you’re short on time.

Directions: Drive about 8 km south of Stepantsminda toward Tbilisi and look for the small parking area and signs for Gveleti.

Juta Valley (for advanced hikers)

If you’re an experienced hiker with a full day to spare, Juta Valley offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Georgia. The valley is accessible by 4WD vehicle (17 km from Stepantsminda on rough roads), and from there, you can hike to Chaukhi Massif – a dramatic ridge of jagged peaks that looks like something from Lord of the Rings.

I didn’t have time for this hike, but it’s on my list for next time. The hike takes 6-8 hours round trip and requires good fitness and mountain hiking experience.

EXPLORING STEPANTSMINDA TOWN

In the afternoon, after my morning hike, I spent time wandering around Stepantsminda town. It’s a small, functional mountain town – not particularly pretty or atmospheric, but authentic and unpretentious.

I visited the small Kazbegi Museum (3 GEL entry) which has interesting displays about mountaineering history in the region and local culture. Worth 30 minutes if you’re interested.

For lunch, I had khinkali at Shorena’s Restaurant – some of the best I had in Georgia! The restaurant is simple and family-run, with hearty portions and incredibly friendly service.

USEFUL TIP: ATMs in Stepantsminda are unreliable and often run out of cash. Bring enough cash from Tbilisi to cover your stay. Most guesthouses accept cash only.

EVENING IN KAZBEGI

As evening approached, I returned to my hotel terrace to watch another spectacular sunset over the mountains. The light on Mount Kazbek shifted from gold to pink to deep purple as the sun set behind the western peaks.

This is what Georgia is all about – these quiet moments of natural beauty that take your breath away. I understood why so many travelers describe Kazbegi as the highlight of their Georgia trip. After two days here, I could have easily stayed a week.

Day 6: Gudauri, Jvari Pass, Gori, and Uplistsikhe Cave Town

Distance covered: 200 KM
Total drive time: 4 HRS
Overnight in: Gori

Leaving Kazbegi was bittersweet – I could have spent many more days in those magnificent mountains. But the road trip must continue, and I was excited about exploring a completely different side of Georgia: the ancient cave city of Uplistsikhe.

I left Stepantsminda around 8 AM, retracing my route back along the Georgian Military Highway. Driving this spectacular road in the opposite direction offered completely new perspectives. What had been on my right was now on my left, and the morning light illuminated the mountains differently.

REVISITING JVARI PASS AND GUDAURI

Since I drove through Gudauri and Jvari Pass quickly on the way up (eager to reach Kazbegi), I took more time on the return journey to properly appreciate these areas.

I stopped again at the Gudauri Friendship Monument for different photos in the morning light. There were almost no tourists this early, and I had the circular monument mostly to myself. The 360-degree mountain views were even more stunning than I remembered.

If you’re visiting in winter, Gudauri is Georgia’s top ski resort with excellent slopes and much cheaper prices than European ski destinations. Even in summer, you can take the ski lift up for incredible mountain vistas.

GORI – Stalin’s Birthplace

After descending from the mountains back to the lowlands, I reached Gori around lunchtime. This central Georgian city is famous (or infamous) as the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, one of the 20th century’s most controversial figures.

Stalin Museum

I’ll be honest – I had mixed feelings about visiting this museum. However, as someone interested in history, I felt it was important to see how Georgia presents Stalin’s legacy.

The museum complex includes Stalin’s childhood home (a small wooden hut), a grand museum building filled with his personal belongings, and the train carriage he used for traveling to conferences like Yalta and Potsdam.

The museum presentation is… interesting. While international perspective views Stalin as a brutal dictator responsible for millions of deaths, this museum focuses primarily on his rise to power and achievements, with minimal mention of purges, gulags, or the darker aspects of his rule. The tour (English-speaking guides available) costs 15 GEL.

Whether you should visit depends on your interests. For history enthusiasts, it’s fascinating to see how Stalin is remembered in his homeland. If you’re short on time or not particularly interested in Soviet history, you can skip it.

USEFUL TIP: The museum is closed on Mondays. Tours take about 1.5 hours.

UPLISTSIKHE – The Ancient Cave Town

After a quick lunch in Gori (I had delicious mtsvadi – grilled meat skewers – at a local café), I drove 10 km east to Uplistsikhe, one of the most unique archaeological sites I’ve ever visited.

Uplistsikhe means “Lord’s Fortress,” and this ancient rock-hewn town dates back to the 6th century BC! At its peak around 1,000 years ago, up to 20,000 people lived in this complex carved entirely into the rocky hillside overlooking the Mtkvari River.

Exploring the Cave City

The site is larger than I expected – you’ll need at least 1.5-2 hours to properly explore. A well-marked path winds through the ancient caves, tunnels, and chambers carved into the golden sandstone.

The complex includes:

Ancient theater – one of the oldest in the Caucasus
Various dwelling caves – you can see where families lived, with carved “furniture” and storage areas
Pagan temples later converted to Christian churches
Underground tunnel leading down to the river (supposedly a secret escape route)
Pharmacy cave with holes carved in the rock for storing medicine
Three-nave basilica – the only free-standing structure, dating from the 10th century

What amazed me most was the sophistication of the city planning. There are streets, a complex water system, and even what appears to be sewage channels – all carved from solid rock over 2,000 years ago!

The views from the top of the complex over the Mtkvari River valley are stunning, especially in late afternoon light when the golden sandstone glows.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION:

Entry: 15 GEL (includes audio guide available in English)
Best time to visit: Early morning or late afternoon (the site is exposed with no shade, and summer midday temperatures are brutal)
What to bring: Water, sun hat, good walking shoes (the paths can be uneven and slippery)
Photography: Allowed everywhere

USEFUL TIP: Hire a guide at the entrance (around 30 GEL for English-speaking guide) to really understand the historical significance of different caves. Without explanation, it’s just interesting-looking caves. With context, it’s a fascinating glimpse into ancient Georgian civilization.

I spent nearly 2.5 hours at Uplistsikhe and still felt like I could have stayed longer. The site receives far fewer visitors than it deserves – during my visit, there were maybe 20 other people total, making it easy to explore peacefully and take photos without crowds.

Where to Stay in Gori?

I stayed at Guest House Natia, a family-run guesthouse about 10 minutes’ drive from Gori center. The rooms were simple but spotlessly clean, and the host Natia prepared an incredible traditional Georgian dinner (khachapuri, lobio, fresh salads, and homemade wine) that she insisted I share with the family.

This is Georgian hospitality at its finest – warm, generous, and authentic. The room cost only 40 GEL (about €12) including breakfast!

Other options in Gori:

Gori Inn – modern hotel in the city center
Hotel Caucasus – budget option with basic but clean rooms

Book your Gori accommodation through Booking.com.

Day 7: Return to Tbilisi via Gori Fortress and Final Exploration

Distance covered: 80 KM
Total drive time: 1 HR 15 MIN
Overnight in: Tbilisi

My final day in Georgia was intentionally relaxed – just a short drive back to Tbilisi with a morning stop in Gori before returning my rental car.

GORI FORTRESS

Before leaving Gori, I visited the medieval fortress that dominates the city from its hilltop position. The fortress dates from the 13th century, though the site has been fortified since ancient times.

The fortress itself is partially ruined but still impressive. The real reason to visit is the panoramic view of Gori and the surrounding Kartli region from the top. On a clear day, you can see the Caucasus Mountains in the distance.

The walk up takes about 20 minutes from the city center. Entry is free.

FINAL HOURS IN TBILISI

I arrived back in Tbilisi around lunchtime and returned my rental car. The week flew by, yet it felt like I’d experienced so much!

I spent my last afternoon and evening revisiting my favorite spots in Tbilisi:

Lunch at Café Leila – I wanted one last khachapuri, and this cozy café in the Old Town serves excellent traditional food in a charming setting with vintage decor.

Shopping for souvenirs – I wandered through the small shops in Old Town picking up Georgian spices, churchkhela candy, and a beautiful cloisonné enamel necklace. The dry bridge flea market (operating on weekends) is also great for unique souvenirs like Soviet memorabilia, vintage cameras, and antique jewelry.

Final sunset from Narikala – I couldn’t leave Georgia without one more view from Narikala Fortress. I took the cable car up and watched the sun set over Tbilisi, reflecting on an incredible week.

Farewell dinner with wine – For my final meal, I splurged at Barbarestan Restaurant, known for reviving forgotten Georgian recipes from a 19th-century cookbook. The food was extraordinary – creative yet respectful of tradition. I paired it with a bottle of amber wine (Georgia’s unique orange wine made in qvevri) and toasted to an unforgettable road trip.

What I Skipped and What I Would Suggest Skipping

Borjomi – This spa town famous for its mineral water is pleasant but not essential if you’re short on time. Unless you’re specifically interested in spas or the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, you can skip it.

Vardzia – This incredible cave monastery complex in southern Georgia is on my list for next time, but it’s about 6 hours drive from Tbilisi. For a one-week itinerary, it’s too far out of the way. If you have 10+ days, definitely include it.

Batumi – Georgia’s beach resort city on the Black Sea coast. It’s modern and fun, but very different from the rest of Georgia. If beaches are your priority, go for it. But if you’re more interested in mountains, history, and wine, skip it.

Kutaisi – Georgia’s second-largest city has some interesting sites (Gelati Monastery, Prometheus Cave), but I found it less charming than other destinations. Worth considering if you have extra time or if you’re flying in/out of Kutaisi Airport.

Final Thoughts on My Georgia Road Trip

This one-week road trip through Georgia exceeded all my expectations. From Tbilisi’s vibrant energy to Kakheti’s ancient wine culture, from the dramatic Georgian Military Highway to the peaceful mountain villages around Kazbegi, from fascinating historical sites to some of the warmest hospitality I’ve ever experienced – Georgia captured my heart completely.

What makes Georgia special isn’t just the stunning landscapes or fascinating history (though those are incredible). It’s the people. Everywhere I went, Georgians welcomed me with open arms, insisted on sharing food and wine, and went out of their way to help. This legendary Georgian hospitality isn’t a tourism marketing slogan – it’s genuine.

The Georgian tradition of the supra (feast) embodies this spirit perfectly. It’s not just about food and wine (though both are exceptional). It’s about connection, storytelling, toasting to friendship, family, and the beauty of life itself. I was invited to join several supras during my week in Georgia, and each one was a privilege and a joy.

If you’re considering a Georgia road trip, my advice is simple: go. Go soon, before this incredible country becomes overrun with tourists (though Georgians will probably still welcome you warmly even then). Rent a car, download offline maps, bring an appetite for adventure and khachapuri, and prepare for one of the best road trips of your life.

Georgia isn’t just a destination – it’s an experience that will stay with you long after you return home. A week later, I was already planning my return trip to explore Svaneti, Vardzia, and all the places I missed this time.

Gamarjoba, Georgia! Until we meet again.

More Georgia Travel Resources

Planning your Georgia road trip? Below are some useful links to travel booking resources that I personally use:

Flights: Find the best flight deals to Tbilisi or Kutaisi using KIWI.com – they offer great routes and competitive prices with a money-back guarantee if you miss connections.

Car Rental: Get the best rates with Discovercars or Localrent (specifically good for Georgia and the Caucasus region). Compare prices and read reviews before booking.

Accommodation: Find your perfect stay on Booking.com, Expedia, or Hotellook for the best price comparisons.

Travel Insurance: Always get travel insurance! Check SafetyWing for affordable rates or Heymondo for comprehensive coverage. Both cover COVID-related events.

Tours: Book highly-rated guided tours in Georgia on Viator or GetYourGuide – great if you don’t want to drive or want expert local guides.

Money: Georgia uses the Georgian Lari (GEL). ATMs are widely available in cities. Bring cash for rural areas as card acceptance can be limited.

SIM Card: Get a local SIM card at the airport (Magti or Geocell providers) for around 10-15 GEL with data. Essential for navigation!