Ecuador Road Trip: Ultimate One-Week Itinerary Through the Avenue of Volcanoes!
Ecuador is a dream destination for an epic South American road trip. This detailed one-week Ecuador road trip itinerary covers the best places in this compact Andean country that you can explore in 7 days.
Ecuador is a small country packed with incredible diversity! Winding mountain roads traverse colonial cities, towering volcanic peaks, pristine cloud forests, and indigenous markets. Therefore, embarking on an Ecuador road trip is hands down the best way to explore this equatorial paradise.
With your own wheels, you’ll be able to discover Ecuador’s highlights at your own pace. Although some attractions can be reached by bus or organized tours, many of the most spectacular viewpoints and hidden gems are only accessible by car.
Based on my unforgettable week exploring this magnificent country, I’ve put together this comprehensive 7-day Ecuador road trip itinerary covering the famous Avenue of Volcanoes, colonial treasures, thermal springs, and breathtaking mountain passes. It includes distances traveled, provides an interactive route map, and suggests the best places to stay in Ecuador.
Car rental tip 1: I used Discover Cars for my Ecuador rental, which helped me compare rates between different companies and saved nearly 60% on my booking. The full coverage insurance option gave me peace of mind on those mountain roads.
Car rental tip 2: Rental Cars is another excellent option for Ecuador. They work with reputable local providers and international companies, giving you plenty of choices for your budget.
- Stay: I booked all my accommodation in Ecuador through Booking.com and Airbnb for longer stays.
- Travel Insurance: I always travel with reliable insurance from SafetyWing (most affordable) or Heymondo (comprehensive coverage).
- Check the best adventure tours in Ecuador on Viator and Get Your Guide.
Summary of My Ecuador Road Trip Route
- Day 1: Quito Arrival and Old Town Exploration
- Day 2: Quito – Otavalo Market – Cotacachi – Cuicocha Crater Lake
- Day 3: Otavalo – Cayambe – Cotopaxi National Park
- Day 4: Cotopaxi – Quilotoa Loop – Baños
- Day 5: Baños Adventure Day (Waterfalls Route, Swing at the End of the World)
- Day 6: Baños – Chimborazo Volcano – Riobamba
- Day 7: Riobamba – Devil’s Nose Train – Return to Quito
If I had 5 Days in Ecuador, my itinerary would include: Quito – Otavalo Market – Cotopaxi National Park – Quilotoa Crater Lake – Baños Waterfalls Route.
If I had 10 Days in Ecuador, I would add: Amazon rainforest extension (3 days), Mindo Cloud Forest, or coastal route to Montañita.
Ecuador Road Trip Planning Tips

Renting a Car in Ecuador
Major car rental companies operate from Quito’s Mariscal Sucre International Airport, which is conveniently located about 45 minutes from the city center. I highly recommend booking through Discover Cars or Rental Cars as these comparison sites consistently offer better rates than booking directly with rental companies.
Important: Unlike Montenegro, Ecuador requires an International Driving Permit (IDP) along with your home country’s driver’s license. Get this before you travel – it’s usually available through your local automobile association.
Driving in Ecuador
Driving is an excellent way to explore Ecuador’s diverse landscapes. Having your own vehicle allows you to stop at countless viewpoints along the Avenue of Volcanoes, visit remote indigenous villages, and follow your own schedule without being tied to bus timetables.
Ecuador’s roads vary significantly in quality. The Pan-American Highway (E35) connecting major cities is generally in good condition, but secondary mountain roads can be challenging with potholes, narrow passages, and hairpin turns. What appears as 50 km on the map might take 1.5-2 hours to drive through mountain terrain.
Driving tips for Ecuador:
- Altitude matters! You’ll be driving between sea level and 4,000+ meters. Take it slow and let your body (and car) adjust.
- Mountain fog (garúa) can appear suddenly, reducing visibility dramatically. Slow down and use fog lights.
- Watch for livestock on rural roads – cows, sheep, and even llamas can appear unexpectedly.
- Speed bumps (topes or reductores de velocidad) are everywhere, often unmarked. Always slow down when entering villages.
- Gas stations become sparse in rural areas. Fill up whenever you see one.
- Parking in Quito and major cities can be challenging. Look for paid parking lots (parqueaderos) rather than street parking.
Where to Stay During the Ecuador Road Trip
Throughout my Ecuador journey, I prioritized staying in locally-owned guesthouses, haciendas, and small hotels rather than international chains. This approach not only supports local communities but also provides authentic cultural experiences and insider tips from hosts who know their regions intimately.
For this road trip, parking wasn’t as critical as in Montenegro since most accommodations outside Quito offered safe parking. However, I always confirmed parking availability when booking.
Accommodation: I use Booking.com for flexibility and their excellent cancellation policies. For longer stays (2+ nights), Airbnb often provides better value, especially for apartments with kitchens.
Tip: Book accommodations in popular spots like Baños and Otavalo at least 2-3 weeks in advance during high season (June-September, December-January). Last-minute bookings can be expensive or unavailable.
Here’s a Quick Summary of Where I Stayed:
- Quito (Old Town) – Casa Gangotena – 1 night (luxury historic hotel)
- Otavalo – Hacienda Pinsaquí – 1 night (colonial hacienda)
- Cotopaxi – Secret Garden Cotopaxi – 1 night (mountain lodge with volcano views)
- Baños – Luna Runtún Adventure Spa – 2 consecutive nights (hillside resort)
- Riobamba – Hostería Abraspungo – 1 night (traditional Andean lodge)
All these properties were booked through Booking.com with flexible cancellation. You’ll find detailed reviews at the end of each day’s section.
What to Expect in Ecuador?
In Ecuador, you’ll experience the perfect blend of natural wonders and cultural richness. You’ll walk through cobblestoned colonial streets in Quito’s UNESCO-listed Old Town, haggle for colorful textiles at the legendary Otavalo indigenous market, and stand in awe before active volcanoes that pierce the clouds. You’ll soak in thermal hot springs surrounded by waterfalls, hike to a stunning turquoise crater lake at 3,800 meters, and feel your heart race on the “Swing at the End of the World” overlooking lush valleys. The warmth and hospitality of Ecuador’s people, combined with incredibly affordable prices and mind-blowing scenery at every turn, make this small country an absolute treasure for road trippers.
How Many Days Do You Need in Ecuador?
Based on my experience exploring Ecuador’s highlands, one week is the perfect amount of time to cover the main highlights of the Avenue of Volcanoes and surrounding areas. You’ll have enough time to properly acclimatize to the altitude while still maintaining a good pace.
If you only have 5 days, you can hit the absolute must-sees: Quito, Otavalo Market, Cotopaxi, Quilotoa, and Baños. With 10 days or more, I’d highly recommend adding either the Amazon rainforest (Cuyabeno or Yasuni), the cloud forests of Mindo, or a coastal extension to Montañita and Puerto López for whale watching season.
Note: This itinerary starts and ends in Quito. If you’re flying into Guayaquil on the coast, you can easily reverse this route or start with a coastal leg before heading to the highlands.
When to Visit Ecuador?
The best time for an Ecuador highlands road trip is during the dry season from June to September. These months offer the clearest skies for viewing volcanoes, the least rainfall, and perfect hiking conditions. I visited in July and had spectacular weather most days.
December through January is also excellent – it’s summer vacation for Ecuadorians, so expect more crowds at popular spots like Baños and Quilotoa, but the weather is generally good.
October through May brings more rain, especially in the afternoons. However, this is actually the best time for budget travelers – accommodation prices drop significantly, and you’ll have places almost to yourself. Morning views are often clear even during rainy season.
Temperature note: Ecuador’s highlands sit between 2,400-4,000 meters elevation. Days are pleasantly warm (15-22°C), but nights get cold (5-10°C). Pack layers!
Budget for Your Road Trip in Ecuador
Ecuador is incredibly affordable, especially compared to North American or European standards. The US dollar is the official currency, making transactions straightforward for American travelers (no exchange rate confusion!).
Here’s a realistic breakdown of costs for a comfortable mid-range trip:
- Accommodation: $40-$80/night for a nice hotel or hacienda with breakfast included
- Food: $15-$30/day depending on whether you eat at local comedores or tourist restaurants
- Car Rental: $25-$50/day for a reliable sedan or small SUV booked in advance
- Fuel: $1.75-$2.50/gallon for gasoline (Ecuador subsidizes fuel, so it’s cheaper than neighboring countries)
- Entrance fees: Most national parks charge $2-$10 per person
- Activities: $10-$50 for zip-lining, hot springs, or guided hikes
Budget-saving tips:
- Eat at “almuerzos” (set lunch menus) in local restaurants for $2.50-$4 – you get soup, main course, juice, and sometimes dessert
- Stay in family-run hostels or haciendas outside main tourist zones
- Many viewpoints and hikes are completely free
- Fill up your gas tank in major cities where it’s slightly cheaper
Ecuador One-Week Road Trip Itinerary Day by Day
Here’s my detailed day-by-day breakdown of the route I took during my unforgettable week exploring Ecuador’s highlands. Get ready for volcano views, colonial charm, and adventures you’ll remember forever!
Day 1: Quito Arrival and Old Town Exploration

- Distance covered: 20 KM (airport to Old Town)
- Total drive time: 45 MIN (depending on traffic)
- Overnight in: Quito Old Town
After landing at Mariscal Sucre International Airport, I picked up my rental car and made the scenic drive into Quito. The airport road winds through mountains and valleys before dropping into the sprawling capital city nestled at 2,850 meters elevation.
Important first-day tip: Take it easy! Quito’s altitude can hit you hard if you’re coming from sea level. I felt slightly lightheaded and short of breath during my first few hours. Drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol, and don’t plan anything too strenuous.
Where to Park in Quito Old Town
I dropped my rental car at a secure parking lot (parqueadero) near my hotel for $10/day. Most hotels in the Old Town don’t have parking, so finding a nearby lot is essential. My hotel recommended Parqueadero San Francisco, which was safe and convenient.
Driving in Quito tip: Traffic can be absolutely chaotic during rush hours (7-9 AM and 5-7 PM). Plan accordingly! Also, Quito has “Pico y Placa” restrictions where certain license plate numbers can’t drive during specific hours on weekdays. Rental cars are usually exempt, but confirm with your rental company.
Things to Do in Quito Old Town
Quito’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and absolutely deserves its status. The largest and best-preserved colonial old town in South America, it’s filled with ornate churches, beautiful plazas, and incredible architecture at every turn.
Explore Plaza Grande (Independence Square)
The heart of Quito’s Old Town, this is where I started my exploration. The plaza is surrounded by the Presidential Palace (Palacio de Carondelet), the Cathedral, and the Archbishop’s Palace. I timed my visit for 11 AM to watch the changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace – it’s a colorful ceremony that’s completely free to watch.
Visit La Compañía de Jesús Church
This is hands down the most spectacular church I’ve ever seen. The interior is covered floor-to-ceiling in gold leaf – they say seven tons of gold were used! The baroque architecture and intricate details are absolutely mind-blowing. The entrance fee of $5 is worth every cent. Go early morning (9:30 AM opening) or late afternoon to avoid tour groups.
Climb to El Panecillo for Panoramic Views
The iconic aluminum statue of the Virgin Mary sits atop El Panecillo hill overlooking the entire city. I took a taxi up ($5 from the Old Town) rather than walking, as the route can be unsafe. The 360-degree views of Quito sprawling through the valley, surrounded by volcanic peaks, are absolutely spectacular. Time your visit for late afternoon to catch the golden hour light. Entrance to the viewing platform costs $2.
Wander Through San Francisco Plaza and Church
The massive San Francisco Church and its plaza create one of Quito’s most photogenic spots. The church dates back to 1535, making it one of the oldest in South America. The entrance fee is $3, and you can explore the church, museum, and beautiful cloisters. I spent a good hour here just soaking in the atmosphere.
Get Lost in the Cobblestone Streets
My favorite activity was simply wandering the narrow colonial streets connecting the main plazas. Calle La Ronda, a beautifully restored pedestrian street, is perfect for this. It’s lined with artisan workshops, small galleries, and cozy cafes. I stopped for “canelazo” (a hot cinnamon and aguardiente drink) at one of the traditional bars – perfect for the cool evening.
Where to Eat in Quito
For traditional Ecuadorian food: I had an incredible dinner at Hasta La Vuelta Señor, a local favorite serving authentic locro de papa (potato soup with cheese and avocado) and fritada (fried pork). The atmosphere is casual and prices are reasonable ($8-12 per main course).
For something upscale: Vista Hermosa offers refined Ecuadorian cuisine with stunning views over the city. It’s pricier ($20-30 per person) but the experience is worth it for a special dinner.
Street food tip: Try “empanadas de viento” (wind empanadas – cheese-filled and fried) from street vendors around Plaza Grande for just $0.50 each. They’re delicious!
Where to Stay in Quito
I splurged on my first night at Casa Gangotena, a beautifully restored mansion right on Plaza San Francisco. The colonial architecture, impeccable service, and rooftop terrace views made it an unforgettable experience. At around $180/night including breakfast, it’s definitely a luxury option, but starting the trip with such comfort helped with altitude adjustment.
Budget alternative: Community Hostel offers excellent value at $30-50 for private rooms with a fantastic rooftop terrace and helpful staff who can arrange tours.
Book your stay through Booking.com or check Airbnb for apartment options if staying multiple nights.
Day 2: Quito – Otavalo Market – Cotacachi – Cuicocha Crater Lake

- Distance covered: 180 KM (round trip with all stops)
- Total drive time: 4 HRS (without stops)
- Overnight in: Otavalo
I woke up early and retrieved my car from the parking lot, ready for one of my favorite days of the entire trip. Today’s route heads north through the Avenue of Volcanoes toward Ecuador’s most famous indigenous market.
The Drive to Otavalo
The Pan-American Highway (E35) north from Quito is in excellent condition and offers stunning mountain scenery. About 45 minutes into the drive, I stopped at the Equator Monument (Mitad del Mundo). While the monument is actually located 240 meters away from the true equator line (GPS coordinates 0°0’0″), it’s still a fun tourist stop with quirky experiments about standing on the equator. The entrance fee is $5, and it takes about 30-45 minutes to explore. I found the Intiñan Solar Museum next door more interesting and scientifically accurate ($5 entrance).
Continuing north, the landscape transforms into rolling green hills dotted with eucalyptus trees. On clear days, you can spot Cayambe volcano (5,790m) to the east – Ecuador’s third-highest peak.
Otavalo Indigenous Market
Arriving at Otavalo, I immediately understood why this market is legendary throughout South America.
The main market day is Saturday, when indigenous Kichwa people from surrounding villages flood into town wearing traditional dress – women in embroidered blouses and long skirts, men in white pants and blue ponchos. The sheer scale and authenticity of this market blew me away.
Saturday market tips:
- Arrive by 8-9 AM to see the animal market (mostly locals selling livestock)
- The handicraft market runs from 7 AM to 4 PM but peaks between 9 AM-1 PM
- Bring cash – most vendors don’t accept cards
- Bargaining is expected! Start at 50-60% of the asking price and negotiate friendly
- Don’t photograph people without asking permission (and many expect a small tip)
What to buy: The quality of textiles here is exceptional. I bought alpaca wool scarves ($15-20), colorful woven blankets ($25-40), and beautiful handmade jewelry ($5-15). The hammocks are tempting but difficult to pack!
Wednesday and daily markets: If you can’t make Saturday, there’s still a good market on Wednesdays, and a smaller daily tourist market in Plaza de Ponchos. I visited on a Tuesday and still found plenty of stalls and authentic atmosphere.
Cotacachi – Leather Goods Capital
After spending the morning at Otavalo market, I drove just 15 minutes north to the small town of Cotacachi, famous throughout Ecuador for high-quality leather goods. The main street (Calle 10 de Agosto) is lined with dozens of leather shops selling jackets, bags, belts, and shoes at prices significantly lower than back home.
I wasn’t planning to buy anything, but ended up with a beautiful handmade leather messenger bag for $45 – the same quality would cost $150+ in the US. The craftsmanship is excellent, and many shops will custom-make items within a day or two if you have time.
Shopping tip: Visit multiple shops to compare quality and prices before committing. The shops toward the ends of the main street often have better deals than the central ones catering to tour groups.
Cuicocha Crater Lake
From Cotacachi, I continued another 20 minutes on a winding mountain road to reach Cuicocha, one of Ecuador’s most stunning crater lakes. The road climbs steadily, offering increasingly dramatic views of the surrounding valleys.
Cuicocha (which means “Guinea Pig Lake” in Kichwa) is a collapsed volcanic crater filled with brilliant blue-green water. Two volcanic islands rise from the center, and the entire scene is framed by the cone of Cotacachi volcano when clouds permit.
The entrance fee to Cuicocha Reserve is just $2 for foreigners, and the small museum near the entrance provides interesting information about the volcanic geology and local ecology.
Hiking around Cuicocha:
I tackled the 8-kilometer trail that circles the crater rim. This hike is absolutely spectacular but also challenging – you’re hiking at 3,200 meters elevation with several steep sections. It took me 4 hours including many photo stops and rest breaks.
Important hiking tips:
- Start early (I began at 2 PM and barely finished before the 6 PM park closing)
- The trail is well-marked but rocky and exposed in sections
- Bring warm layers – wind on the rim can be brutal
- Carry plenty of water and snacks
- The altitude will slow you down even if you’re fit
If you don’t have time or energy for the full loop, there’s a shorter 1-hour walk to the first viewpoint that still offers amazing crater views.
Boat alternative: You can take a motorboat tour around the islands for $5 per person (30 minutes). I skipped this as the views from above are more impressive, but it’s a good option if hiking isn’t your thing.
The late afternoon light illuminating the crater was magical. I could have stayed for hours just watching clouds roll over the rim and shadows play across the water.
Where to Eat in Otavalo
After returning from Cuicocha, I was starving! I had dinner at Balcón de Imbabura, a restaurant with a terrace overlooking Plaza de Ponchos. The trucha (trout) is excellent here – Ecuador’s mountain streams produce some of the best freshwater fish I’ve tasted. A full meal with trout, rice, salad, and a drink cost $12.
For a more authentic local experience, try the small comedores around the market serving “hornado” (roasted pork) with “llapingachos” (potato patties) for $3-5.
Where to Stay in Otavalo
I stayed at Hacienda Pinsaquí, a stunning 300-year-old colonial hacienda about 5 kilometers outside Otavalo town. The property is absolutely gorgeous with manicured gardens, original colonial architecture, and a fireplace in the common areas that’s perfect for cool evenings.
At $80 including breakfast, it felt like exceptional value for such a unique property. The breakfast featuring fresh fruit, homemade bread, and eggs from their chickens was delicious. Having secure parking for my rental car was also reassuring.
Budget alternative: Hostal Valle del Amanecer in town offers clean, comfortable rooms for $35-45 with breakfast and easy walking access to the market.
Book your stay at Hacienda Pinsaquí through Booking.com
Day 3: Otavalo – Cayambe – Cotopaxi National Park

- Distance covered: 150 KM
- Total drive time: 3 HRS 30 MIN
- Overnight in: Cotopaxi area (2 consecutive nights)
Today’s drive takes you south along the Avenue of Volcanoes toward Ecuador’s most iconic peak – Cotopaxi volcano. This was the day I’d been dreaming about since planning this trip!
Stop in Cayambe
About an hour south of Otavalo, I made a quick stop in Cayambe town for two essential reasons: bizcochos (traditional cheese biscuits) and views of Cayambe volcano.
The town is famous throughout Ecuador for its bizcochos, which are crunchy, slightly sweet biscuits served with cheese. Every restaurant and bakery sells them, but locals swear by Bizcochos San Pedro on the main plaza. I bought a bag for $2 and snacked on them throughout the day – they’re addictive!
From Cayambe town on clear mornings, you get spectacular views of snow-capped Cayambe volcano rising to 5,790 meters. This is Ecuador’s third-highest peak and the highest point in the world that sits exactly on the equator line.
Cotopaxi National Park
Continuing south on the Pan-American Highway, after about 90 minutes I reached the turnoff for Cotopaxi National Park. This is where the real adventure begins!
The perfectly conical Cotopaxi volcano (5,897m) is one of the world’s highest active volcanoes and Ecuador’s most photographed peak. The symmetrical snow-covered cone rising above the páramo grasslands is simply mesmerizing.
Park entrance: The entry fee is $10 per person at the main gate (Caspi control). Make sure to get there before 3 PM as they stop allowing vehicles in after that time. The park rangers provide a basic map and information about the trails.
Exploring Cotopaxi
Drive to Limpiopungo Lagoon
The main park road is unpaved but in decent condition for regular cars (though a 4×4 gives you more confidence). The 10-kilometer drive to Limpiopungo Lagoon takes about 20 minutes, passing through otherworldly páramo landscape dotted with wild horses.
Limpiopungo is a shallow glacial lake at 3,800 meters with perfect reflections of Cotopaxi on calm days. I spent an hour here just walking the easy trail around the lake, photographing the volcano, and watching Andean gulls. The silence and vastness of the landscape felt incredibly peaceful.
Optional: Hike to Refugio José Rivas
For those wanting more challenge, you can drive higher to the parking lot at 4,600 meters and hike to José Rivas mountain refuge at 4,800 meters. This steep one-hour climb is tough due to altitude but rewards you with incredible close-up views of Cotopaxi’s glaciers.
I attempted this hike but turned back after 30 minutes – the altitude was making me feel dizzy and nauseous despite having spent two days acclimatizing. There’s no shame in listening to your body at these elevations!
Note: If you want to summit Cotopaxi (it’s a technical climb requiring ice climbing gear and experience), you need to arrange this through a licensed guiding company well in advance. The climb typically costs $250-350 per person.
Best Times for Cotopaxi Views
This is crucial: Cotopaxi creates its own weather system, and clouds typically roll in by mid-morning, completely obscuring the peak by noon. Your best chances for clear views are:
- Dawn to 9 AM – nearly guaranteed clear views
- Late afternoon/evening – clouds sometimes clear briefly
- Midday – usually completely clouded over
I stayed near the park specifically so I could enter at sunrise the next morning, and it was absolutely worth it. The morning light on the snow-covered cone with no clouds was the most spectacular sight of my entire Ecuador trip.
Where to Stay Near Cotopaxi
I stayed at Secret Garden Cotopaxi, a mountain lodge located just outside the national park with stunning volcano views. The property sits at 3,600 meters and features cozy rooms with thick blankets (essential!), a warm communal area with a fireplace, and large windows framing Cotopaxi perfectly.
At $75 per night including breakfast, it offered incredible value. The staff were knowledgeable about the park and helped me plan my sunrise visit. They also arranged a horseback riding excursion through the páramo that was magical.
The highlight: Waking up at 6 AM and walking onto the terrace to see Cotopaxi glowing pink in the alpenglow. No crowds, just me, the volcano, and absolute peace.
Alternative options:
- Hacienda El Porvenir – historic hacienda within the park ($120/night)
- Tambopaxi Lodge – eco-lodge at park entrance ($90/night)
- Chilcabamba Lodge – budget-friendly option ($45/night)
Book your stay at Secret Garden Cotopaxi through Booking.com
Where to Eat Near Cotopaxi
Restaurant options are limited in this rural area. Most lodges include breakfast and can arrange dinner (usually simple but hearty meals like soup, grilled chicken or trout, rice, and vegetables for $12-15).
I had one dinner at my lodge and one at Tambopaxi Lodge’s restaurant, which is open to non-guests. The locro de papas and hot chocolate hit the spot after a cold day exploring the park.
Pro tip: Stock up on snacks and water in Latacunga (the nearest town, 30 minutes away) before heading to the park area.
Day 4: Cotopaxi – Quilotoa Loop – Baños

- Distance covered: 180 KM
- Total drive time: 4 HRS 30 MIN
- Overnight in: Baños (2 consecutive nights)
After my magical sunrise at Cotopaxi, I was ready for another highlight of Ecuador’s highlands – the famous Quilotoa crater lake. This day involves some serious mountain driving, but the scenery makes every hairpin turn worthwhile!
The Drive to Quilotoa
From the Cotopaxi area, I backtracked slightly to Latacunga and then headed west into the mountains on increasingly narrow roads. The “Quilotoa Loop” refers to a circular route connecting several indigenous villages, but I took the direct route to Quilotoa crater lake.
The road conditions: The main route is paved but narrow with many curves. Traffic is light, mostly local buses and the occasional tourist vehicle. The drive takes you through stunning mountain scenery with terraced farms clinging to steep slopes and indigenous communities going about their daily lives.
I stopped in the village of Tigua to see the famous naïve art paintings created by local artists. These colorful paintings depicting Andean life and landscapes are sold in small galleries throughout the village for $10-50 depending on size. I bought a small one as a perfect souvenir.
Quilotoa Crater Lake
Arriving at Quilotoa took my breath away – literally from both altitude (3,800m) and the sheer beauty of this place.
Quilotoa is a water-filled caldera created by a volcanic collapse around 800 years ago. The crater is nearly 3 kilometers wide and 250 meters deep, filled with turquoise water that changes color depending on the light and minerals. It’s one of the most photogenic spots in all of Ecuador.
Entrance fee: $2 per person (collected at the village entrance)
Parking: $2 for the car in the main lot
Activities at Quilotoa
Walk the Crater Rim
A trail circles the entire crater rim (approximately 10 kilometers, 4-5 hours). I only walked part of it – about 45 minutes to the right from the main viewpoint – which already provided multiple angles and spectacular photo opportunities. The full loop would be amazing with more time, but the altitude makes it quite strenuous.
Hike Down to the Lake
A steep trail descends from the rim to the lakeshore (30-40 minutes down). I hiked down and it was magical being at the water’s edge with the crater walls towering above me. The water really does glow that surreal turquoise color!
The catch: Hiking back up takes 60-90 minutes and is brutally tough at this altitude. Every step feels like climbing stairs with a weight vest. There’s an option to hire a mule for the ascent ($5-10), which I seriously considered but pushed through on foot. Bring plenty of water!
Kayaking option: You can rent kayaks at the lake to paddle on the crater lake ($5). I didn’t try this due to time constraints, but it looked incredible.
Best Time to Visit Quilotoa
I arrived at 11 AM and the lake was beautifully illuminated. However, afternoon clouds started rolling in around 2 PM. For the best photos and clearest views, visit between 9 AM and 1 PM.
The village can get busy with tour groups from 11 AM-2 PM, especially on weekends. Arriving earlier (8-9 AM) or later (after 3 PM) means fewer crowds, though afternoon light isn’t as spectacular.
Where to Eat at Quilotoa
The small village has several simple restaurants serving basic Ecuadorian food. I had lunch at Quilotoa Crater Lake Restaurant with crater views – a set menu of soup, trout, potatoes, and juice for $7. Not gourmet, but hot, filling, and the views were priceless.
The Drive from Quilotoa to Baños
After leaving Quilotoa, I continued south and east toward Baños. This section of driving is stunning as you descend from the high páramo back into lusher, warmer climates. The route passes through small villages and agricultural areas with different crops at each elevation level.
About 90 minutes from Quilotoa, I rejoined the Pan-American Highway near Ambato, Ecuador’s fourth-largest city. I skirted around the city (no real reason to stop unless you need supplies) and continued another 45 minutes to reach Baños.
The descent into Baños is dramatic – you drop from over 3,000 meters to just 1,800 meters, and suddenly you’re surrounded by greenery, waterfalls, and a much warmer climate. It feels like entering a different world.
Welcome to Baños de Agua Santa
Baños is Ecuador’s adventure capital and one of my favorite towns in the entire country. Nestled in a valley between the Andes and the Amazon basin, at the foot of the active Tungurahua volcano, Baños offers the perfect combination of natural beauty, adventure activities, and relaxation.
The town name means “Baths of Holy Water,” referring to the natural hot springs fed by volcanic activity. After several days at high altitude, soaking in warm thermal pools while gazing at waterfalls felt like absolute heaven!
I planned two nights here, which gave me a full day for the famous Waterfalls Route and plenty of time to enjoy the town’s vibe.
Where to Stay in Baños
I splurged on Luna Runtún Adventure Spa, a gorgeous hillside resort perched 800 meters above Baños with panoramic views of the valley and Tungurahua volcano. The infinity pool, spa, excellent restaurant, and comfortable rooms made this the most luxurious stay of my trip.
At $140 per night including breakfast, it’s definitely an investment, but waking up to volcano views and having access to the spa after a day of adventure was pure bliss. The hotel is about 6 kilometers from town (10-minute drive), which I appreciated for the peace and quiet.
Mid-range alternative: Samari Spa Resort offers similar hillside views and hot springs for $70-90 per night.
Budget option: Hostal Chimenea in the town center has clean rooms from $30-40 and puts you within walking distance of everything.
Book your stay at Luna Runtún through Booking.com
Where to Eat in Baños
Baños has Ecuador’s best restaurant scene outside of Quito. I had several memorable meals:
Café Hood – Amazing breakfast with fresh juices, pancakes, and local coffee ($6-8). The ambiance is cozy and welcoming.
Casa Hood (related to Café Hood) – Fantastic dinner with innovative takes on Ecuadorian cuisine. The trucha (trout) in almond sauce was incredible ($15).
Swiss Bistro – When I needed a break from Ecuadorian food, this place delivered with excellent fondue and Swiss specialties ($12-18).
Street food: Don’t miss the “melcocha” (taffy) vendors demonstrating their craft by stretching the sticky candy on wooden poles. It’s mesmerizing to watch and costs just $1.
Day 5: Baños Adventure Day – Waterfalls Route and Swing at the End of the World
- Distance covered: 60 KM
- Total drive time: 1 HR 30 MIN (without stops)
- Overnight in: Baños
This was hands-down one of the most fun days of my entire Ecuador road trip! Today I explored the famous Ruta de las Cascadas (Waterfalls Route), a spectacular road that winds through a canyon with countless waterfalls cascading down the cliffs.
The Waterfalls Route (Ruta de las Cascadas)
The route follows the main road (E30) from Baños toward Puyo in the Amazon basin. The road itself is an engineering marvel, carved into the near-vertical canyon walls with tunnels blasted through rock and bridges crossing gorges. Around every corner, another waterfall appears – some small trickles, others massive curtains of water.
Important note: The road is open to all vehicles, including buses and trucks, so drive carefully and be prepared for tight squeezes in the tunnels. Parts of the road can be narrow and winding.
Must-See Waterfalls
Cascada Manto de la Novia (Bride’s Veil Falls)
The first major waterfall is just 10 kilometers from Baños. A massive cascade that does indeed look like a bride’s veil flowing down the cliff. You can admire it from the viewpoint, or for the adventurous, take the cable car (tarabita) across the gorge for $1. The ride is thrilling – you’re suspended in a small cage flying over the river and waterfall!
On the other side, there’s a short trail to get closer to the falls. I did this and got completely soaked but it was exhilarating!
Cascada Pailón del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron)
About 18 kilometers from Baños, this is THE waterfall you cannot miss. Pailón del Diablo is one of Ecuador’s most powerful waterfalls, and getting up close to it is an unforgettable experience.
Entrance fee: $2
From the parking area in the tiny village of Río Verde, two trails lead to viewing platforms. I took the longer “scenic route” which descends through lush vegetation with multiple viewpoints. The trail is well-maintained with stairs and platforms, taking about 20 minutes down.
The final platform brings you right next to where the water crashes into the pool – the power, the spray, the roar is absolutely incredible! I spent 30 minutes here just feeling the energy of the waterfall. Bring a waterproof jacket or poncho; you WILL get wet!
Pro tip: Go early (before 10 AM) to avoid tour groups and have the platforms mostly to yourself.
Cascada El Refugio (optional, further along)
If you have more time and energy, continue another 20 kilometers to this beautiful waterfall where you can actually get behind the cascade. I ran out of time for this one but heard it’s spectacular.
Adventure Activities in Baños
Baños is Ecuador’s adventure capital with options for every thrill level:
Swing at the End of the World (Casa del Árbol)
This was an absolute must-do for me! About 30 minutes’ drive from Baños center (steep, winding dirt road – 4×4 recommended but not essential if you’re careful), you reach La Casa del Árbol, a treehouse with a seismic monitoring station and the famous swing with no safety equipment!
Entrance fee: $1
The swing sits at 2,660 meters on the edge of a cliff with views over Baños, Tungurahua volcano, and endless green valleys. There’s literally nothing stopping you from swinging out over the abyss – no harness, no safety net, just you, the rope, and gravity!
I won’t lie – my first swing out felt terrifying as I flew over the cliff edge. But after that initial fear, it was pure adrenaline and joy! The photos are incredible (staff will take pictures with your phone).
Important notes:
- Go early (8-9 AM) to avoid long lines. By 11 AM there can be 30+ people waiting
- The road is often closed due to volcanic activity – check with your hotel before going
- There’s also a zipline here for $5
- Bring layers – it’s much cooler at this elevation
Other adventure options I saw but didn’t have time for:
- White water rafting on the Pastaza River ($35-50)
- Canyoning down waterfalls ($45-60)
- Zip-lining through the canyon ($20-30)
- Mountain biking the Waterfalls Route (rental bikes available in town)
- Paragliding over the valley ($50-70)
Thermal Baths in Baños
After a full day of adventure, I ended my evening soaking in the hot springs. Baños has several thermal bath complexes:
Termas de la Virgen – The main public baths right by the waterfall in town ($3 entrance). Multiple pools at different temperatures. Can be crowded but authentic.
El Salado – Slightly outside town with warmer water and better facilities ($4). Less crowded and my personal favorite.
My hotel also had thermal pools, so I just relaxed there with a glass of wine watching the sunset over Tungurahua volcano. Pure perfection!
Day 6: Baños – Chimborazo Volcano – Riobamba

- Distance covered: 140 KM
- Total drive time: 3 HRS
- Overnight in: Riobamba
Leaving Baños behind (reluctantly!), I headed south toward Ecuador’s highest peak – the mighty Chimborazo volcano at 6,263 meters. Due to Earth’s equatorial bulge, Chimborazo’s summit is actually the farthest point from Earth’s center, making it technically “higher” than Everest in that measurement!
The Drive to Chimborazo
I backtracked to Ambato and then took the Pan-American Highway south. After about 90 minutes, I turned west toward Chimborazo Fauna Production Reserve. The landscape transforms into high-altitude páramo – a unique ecosystem found only in the Andes.
Chimborazo Fauna Production Reserve
Entrance fee: $10 per person at the park entrance
The reserve protects not just the volcano but also vicuñas (wild relatives of llamas and alpacas). I saw several herds of these elegant creatures grazing the páramo – they’re incredibly graceful with their long necks and soft caramel-colored fur.
Important altitude warning: The reserve sits at 3,800-5,000+ meters. I felt the altitude immediately – slight headache, shortness of breath, and lightheadedness. Take it very slowly!
Visiting Chimborazo
First Refuge (Refugio Hermanos Carrel) – 4,800 meters
You can drive up a rough dirt road to the first refuge. My rental car (a regular sedan) made it, though a 4×4 would be more comfortable. The views of the massive glacier-covered peak looming above are phenomenal.
I spent about an hour here, walking very slowly around the refuge area and taking countless photos. The sense of being in such a remote, high-altitude environment is incredible.
Second Refuge (Refugio Whymper) – 5,000 meters
The more ambitious can hike from the first refuge to the second refuge in about 45 minutes to an hour. This was my goal, but I only made it halfway before the altitude defeated me. At 4,900 meters, I felt dizzy and nauseous, so I wisely turned back.
There’s absolutely no shame in this – 5,000 meters is serious altitude that requires proper acclimatization!
For summit attempts: Climbing Chimborazo requires technical mountaineering skills, proper equipment, and acclimatization. Guided climbs can be arranged in Riobamba for $200-300+ per person over 2-3 days.
Best time to visit: Early morning (7-10 AM) offers the clearest views. Afternoon clouds often obscure the peak. I arrived at 9 AM and had perfect conditions.
Continuing to Riobamba
After my Chimborazo adventure, I drove another hour to Riobamba, Ecuador’s fourth-largest city and the jumping-off point for Chimborazo excursions. The city sits at 2,750 meters and serves as an important regional hub.
Riobamba itself is pleasant but not spectacular – it’s more of a functional base than a tourist destination. However, it has good services, restaurants, and accommodations.
Where to Stay in Riobamba
I stayed at Hostería Abraspungo, a charming hacienda-style hotel on the outskirts of Riobamba. The colonial architecture, beautiful gardens, and excellent restaurant made for a comfortable stay at $65 per night including breakfast.
The hotel also arranges the famous Devil’s Nose train excursion (more on that tomorrow!).
Alternative: Mansion Santa Isabella in the city center offers boutique hotel comfort for $70-80 per night.
Book your stay at Hostería Abraspungo through Booking.com
Where to Eat in Riobamba
I had dinner at Delicias Quiteñas, a popular local restaurant serving traditional highland cuisine. The “hornado” (slow-roasted pork) with “mote” (hominy corn) was delicious and filling for just $8.
For something fancier, El Delirio offers a more upscale dining experience with steaks and international cuisine ($15-20 per person).
Day 7: Riobamba – Devil’s Nose Train – Return to Quito

- Distance covered: 200 KM (Riobamba to Quito)
- Total drive time: 4 HRS
- Overnight in: Quito (or depart)
My final day in Ecuador featured one last adventure before the long drive back to Quito – the famous Devil’s Nose train ride, considered one of the world’s most spectacular railway journeys.
Devil’s Nose Train (Nariz del Diablo)
The Devil’s Nose train departs from Alausí, a small town about 90 minutes south of Riobamba. I drove there early in the morning to catch the 8 AM departure (there’s also an 11 AM train).
Important booking note: The train is VERY popular and often sells out days in advance, especially during high season (June-September). I booked my ticket online through the official website (trenecuador.com) two weeks before my trip for $25.
Alternative: If you don’t have a rental car, you can join an organized tour from Riobamba that includes transport to Alausí and the train ride ($40-50).
The Train Experience
The Devil’s Nose is a nearly vertical rock face that the train must descend using a series of dramatic switchbacks. The engineering is remarkable – the track zigzags down the cliff, with the train reversing direction multiple times to navigate the steep grade.
The journey takes you from Alausí (2,350m) down to Sibambe (1,860m) and back, covering 12 kilometers in about 2.5 hours total. The train clings to the canyon walls with sheer drops just meters away – it’s thrilling and scenic in equal measure!
What to expect:
- Modern tourist carriages with large windows (much safer than the old days when people rode on the roof!)
- Bilingual guide explaining the history and engineering
- 30-minute stop in Sibambe village with a cultural performance and small museum
- Stunning views of the canyon and surrounding mountains
Photography tip: Sit on the right side heading down for the best views and photos. The train sways quite a bit, so use a fast shutter speed!
The experience felt touristy but was genuinely impressive. The engineering achievement of building this railway in 1902 through such challenging terrain is remarkable.
The Return Drive to Quito
After the train arrived back in Alausí around 10:30 AM, I began my drive back to Quito. This is a long drive (about 4 hours with stops), but the Pan-American Highway is in good condition and the scenery keeps you engaged.
I made a lunch stop in Ambato at a roadside restaurant serving typical Ecuadorian food. The “llapingachos” (potato pancakes stuffed with cheese) were excellent!
Driving tip: Watch your speed! Police frequently use radar on this highway, and tickets are expensive. Stick to the posted limits (90-100 km/h on most sections).
I arrived back in Quito around 4 PM, returned my rental car to the airport (always fill the tank completely before returning!), and either headed to my final hotel or directly to the airport for my evening flight home.
What I Skipped and What I’d Suggest Skipping
Guayaquil – Ecuador’s largest city and coastal hub. Unless you have extra days or need to fly in/out of there, the highlands offer more spectacular scenery and cultural experiences.
Mindo Cloud Forest – I regret skipping this! If I had 10 days, I would absolutely add 2 nights in Mindo for birdwatching, waterfalls, and chocolate tours. It’s only 2 hours northwest of Quito.
Papallacta Hot Springs – These thermal springs between Quito and the Amazon were on my list but got cut for time. Friends said they’re less touristy than Baños baths.
Southern Highlands (Cuenca, Vilcabamba) – Beautiful colonial cities and relaxed mountain towns, but too far for a one-week itinerary. These deserve their own trip!
Final Tips for Your Ecuador Road Trip
Altitude management:
- Spend your first 2 days at moderate elevation (Quito, 2,850m) before going higher
- Drink coca tea (mate de coca) – it really helps with altitude sickness
- Stay hydrated – drink 3-4 liters of water daily
- Avoid alcohol for the first few days
- Take acetazolamide (Diamox) if you’re particularly worried
Safety:
- Ecuador is generally safe for travelers, but don’t leave valuables visible in your car
- Use hotel parking or paid lots, never street parking overnight
- Don’t drive after dark on mountain roads – visibility is poor and road conditions can be dangerous
- Keep your car doors locked when driving through cities
What to pack:
- Layers! You’ll experience temperatures from 5°C to 25°C depending on elevation
- Waterproof jacket – afternoon rain is common
- Sunscreen and hat – equatorial sun is intense at high altitude
- Good hiking boots for trails
- Cash in small bills – many places don’t accept cards or large denominations
Language:
- Spanish is essential in rural areas. Download Google Translate offline
- Learn basic phrases: “¿Cuánto cuesta?” (How much?), “¿Dónde está…?” (Where is…?)
- Ecuadorians are patient and helpful with tourists attempting Spanish
Ecuador Travel Resources
Planning your Ecuador road trip? Here are the booking resources I personally used:
- Find the best flights to Quito using Skyscanner or Google Flights for the best deals and route options
- Rent your car at the best rates with Discover Cars or Rental Cars – both compare multiple providers to save you money
- Find perfect accommodation on Booking.com (my go-to for hotels) or Airbnb (great for longer stays)
- Travel insurance is essential – get covered with SafetyWing (most affordable) or Heymondo (comprehensive coverage including adventure activities)
- Book adventure tours through Viator or Get Your Guide for activities like white water rafting, climbing trips, and Amazon extensions
More Ecuador Travel Guides Coming Soon
- Complete guide to hiking Cotopaxi volcano
- Best markets in Ecuador beyond Otavalo
- Amazon rainforest extension: Cuyabeno vs Yasuni
- Galápagos Islands add-on itinerary
- Budget traveler’s guide to Ecuador
I hope this Ecuador road trip itinerary inspires your own adventure through the Avenue of Volcanoes! Ecuador exceeded all my expectations with its incredible natural beauty, warm people, and perfect road trip infrastructure. One week barely scratched the surface – I’m already planning my return to explore the Amazon and hopefully summit Cotopaxi with proper training!
Feel free to reach out with any questions about this itinerary. Safe travels, and enjoy every moment in this spectacular country!
¡Buen viaje! 🇪🇨🌋
