How To Hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (Map & Instructions)
This exceptional long-distance trail follows the dramatic coastline of Pembrokeshire in southwest Wales. It’s a spectacular multi-day adventure along one of Britain’s most beautiful coastal paths.
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path stretches for 186 miles (299 km) around the entire Pembrokeshire coast, from Amroth in the south to St Dogmaels in the north. It hugs cliffs, descends to hidden beaches, and winds through charming fishing villages.
This magnificent trail is part of the Wales Coast Path and became one of Britain’s first National Trails in 1970. The coastline here is simply breathtaking, with rugged cliffs plunging into the Celtic Sea, golden sandy beaches tucked into sheltered coves, and an abundance of wildlife including seals, dolphins, and puffins.
The path meanders through the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Britain’s only truly coastal national park. You’ll encounter Iron Age forts, medieval castles, ancient chapels, and lime kilns that speak to centuries of human history along this wild coastline.
The views throughout are phenomenal. From towering sea cliffs to sheltered harbours, from windswept headlands to tranquil estuaries, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path offers some of the finest coastal walking in Europe.
Charming villages and towns dot the route, each with welcoming pubs, cafés, and accommodation. They’re perfect places to rest weary legs and sample local seafood.
The walk is graded difficult due to its length and the constant climbing and descending. You’ll tackle approximately 35,000 feet of cumulative ascent, equivalent to climbing Mount Everest from sea level.
In this blog post, I’ve covered everything you need to know about hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, including how to plan your journey, suggested itineraries, detailed section guides, and practical information for the trail.
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH OVERVIEW
- Start: Amroth (South)
- Finish: St Dogmaels (North)
- Distance: 186 miles / 299 km
- Duration: 12-16 days for the full trail
- Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 35,000 feet (10,668 meters)
- Difficulty: Difficult (due to length and cumulative elevation)
I’ve walked sections of this path multiple times, and each visit reveals something new. The full trail is a serious undertaking, but the rewards are immense.
The path can be walked in either direction, though most hikers travel north from Amroth to St Dogmaels. This puts the prevailing southwesterly winds at your back and saves some of the most dramatic sections for the latter stages.
The trail continuously undulates, climbing up and over headlands before dropping down to sea level at beaches and coves. This constant elevation change is what makes the path so challenging, but also what creates those spectacular views.
You’ll pass through Victorian seaside resorts like Tenby and Saundersfoot, historic harbours like Solva and Porthgain, and Britain’s smallest city, St Davids, home to a magnificent cathedral.
The northern sections between St Davids and St Dogmaels are particularly dramatic, with towering cliffs, narrow gullies, and remote stretches where you might not see another soul for hours.
I’ve rated this hike as difficult for several important reasons.
Firstly, the cumulative elevation gain is enormous. While individual climbs are rarely more than 150 meters, you’re constantly going up and down. Over the full trail, you’ll climb the equivalent of Everest.
Secondly, the terrain can be challenging. Steep steps, rocky paths, muddy sections after rain, and exposure to wind and weather all demand respect and preparation.
Thirdly, the length requires physical endurance, mental determination, and careful planning. Your feet, knees, and shoulders (from carrying a pack) will all feel the strain.
We suggest proper hiking boots with ankle support and excellent grip. The terrain varies from smooth clifftop paths to rocky scrambles and muddy farmland.
Most hikers complete the trail in 12-16 days, averaging 12-15 miles per day. I walked it over 14 days, which gave me time to explore villages, visit beaches, and not feel too rushed.
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH MAP
Below is an overview map of the entire Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Amroth to St Dogmaels.
The trail (marked in red) follows the coastline through Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, passing through key towns including Tenby, Pembroke, Angle, Milford Haven, Dale, St Davids, Fishguard, and Newport.
Major landmarks, beaches, and points of interest are marked along the route.
If you prefer a physical map, I strongly recommend: Ordnance Survey Explorer Maps OL35 (North) and OL36 (South) – these are the gold standard for hiking in the UK at 1:25,000 scale.
Alternatively, the Cicerone Guide to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path includes excellent strip maps of the entire route.
For digital maps, I use the OS Maps app with the full Pembrokeshire Coast Path downloaded for offline use. This allows GPS tracking even without mobile signal.
GETTING TO THE START/FINISH
GETTING TO AMROTH (START)
Amroth is a small coastal village in south Pembrokeshire.
By Car: Amroth is approximately 2 hours from Cardiff, 4.5 hours from Birmingham, and 5 hours from London via the M4 motorway. Limited parking is available in the village (pay and display).
By Train: The nearest train station is Kilgetty (4 miles away). From there, take the 351 bus to Amroth (runs approximately hourly, journey time 15 minutes). Kilgetty is served by trains from Swansea, Cardiff, and beyond.
By Bus: The 351 Coastal Cruiser bus connects Amroth with Tenby, Saundersfoot, and other coastal towns. It runs daily from May to September.
GETTING FROM ST DOGMAELS (FINISH)
St Dogmaels is near Cardigan in north Pembrokeshire.
By Car: If you’ve left your car at Amroth, you’ll need to arrange a taxi back (expensive) or use public transport. Several companies offer luggage transfer and car shuttles.
By Train: The nearest station is Carmarthen (40 miles away). The T5 bus runs from Cardigan (1 mile from St Dogmaels) to Carmarthen several times daily (90 minutes).
By Bus: The T5 and 460 buses connect St Dogmaels/Cardigan with Fishguard, Haverfordwest, and other towns along the route.
LOGISTICS FOR THROUGH-HIKERS
Most walkers use one of the following approaches:
- Luggage Transfer Service: Companies like Celtic Trails, Pembrokeshire Coastal Cottages, and Luggage Transfers will move your main bag between accommodations daily (£5-8 per bag). You carry just a daypack. This is what I did, and it made the walk far more enjoyable.
- Public Transport: Use buses to return to your car or accommodation. The Coastal Cruiser buses run May to September, making circular day walks possible.
- Two Cars: Leave one car at the finish, drive the other to the start. Only practical if you have two drivers.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path can be walked in sections or as a full through-hike. Here are suggested itineraries:
14-DAY FULL TRAIL ITINERARY
This is the itinerary I followed, averaging 13-14 miles per day:
- Day 1: Amroth to Tenby (9 miles)
- Day 2: Tenby to Manorbier (8 miles)
- Day 3: Manorbier to Freshwater East (10 miles)
- Day 4: Freshwater East to Pembroke (13 miles)
- Day 5: Pembroke to Angle (11 miles)
- Day 6: Angle to Milford Haven (15 miles)
- Day 7: Milford Haven to Dale (13 miles)
- Day 8: Dale to Marloes (9 miles)
- Day 9: Marloes to Broad Haven (12 miles)
- Day 10: Broad Haven to St Davids (11 miles)
- Day 11: St Davids to Whitesands to Porthgain (14 miles)
- Day 12: Porthgain to Pwll Deri (16 miles)
- Day 13: Pwll Deri to Newport (14 miles)
- Day 14: Newport to St Dogmaels (15 miles)
7-DAY HIGHLIGHTS ITINERARY
If you only have a week, walk the best sections:
- Day 1-2: Tenby to Stackpole (via Manorbier)
- Day 3-4: Marloes to Broad Haven (via St Brides Haven)
- Day 5-6: St Davids to Porthgain to Abereiddy
- Day 7: Strumble Head to Pwll Deri section
WEEKEND WALKS
For shorter trips, these sections are particularly spectacular:
- St Davids Peninsula (2-3 days): St Davids to Whitesands to Abereiddy to Porthgain
- Marloes to St Brides (1-2 days): Stunning clifftop walking with beaches
- Stackpole Estate (1 day): Barafundle Bay, Broad Haven South, and Stackpole Quay
DETAILED HIKING INSTRUCTIONS
I’ll highlight key sections of the trail, moving from south to north.
AMROTH TO TENBY (9 miles, 3-4 hours)
The trail begins at Amroth, marked by a large wooden bench and information board. The path immediately climbs the cliffs, leaving the shingle beach behind.
The walking is relatively gentle through this section, following clifftops above small bays and coves. You’ll pass through Wiseman’s Bridge, a tiny hamlet with a pub (great for an early refreshment stop).
The path continues through Saundersfoot, a larger Victorian resort town with shops, cafés, and facilities. It’s worth stopping for a coffee at one of the harbourside cafés.
From Saundersfoot, the path climbs more steeply, passing Monkstone Point with views back along the coast. The final approach into Tenby reveals the town’s stunning position on a headland, with colorful Georgian houses rising above North Beach.
Tenby is the jewel of south Pembrokeshire, with medieval town walls, a picturesque harbour, excellent restaurants, and beautiful beaches. I always budget extra time here to explore.
TENBY TO MANORBIER (8 miles, 3-4 hours)
Leaving Tenby, the path passes South Beach and climbs steeply up Giltar Point. The walking becomes more rugged here, with proper coastal path terrain.
You’ll pass Penally, then continue along dramatic cliffs to Lydstep Haven, a beautiful secluded beach accessible by steep steps (worth the detour).
The highlight of this section is the approach to Manorbier, with its magnificent medieval castle overlooking the bay. Gerald of Wales, the medieval chronicler, was born here and called it “the most delightful spot in Wales.”
Manorbier village has a pub, shop, and various accommodation options.
STACKPOLE ESTATE (Manorbier to Freshwater East, 10 miles, 4-5 hours)
This section enters the National Trust’s Stackpole Estate, home to some of the path’s finest beaches.
The trail passes Swanlake Bay, then climbs over Old Castle Head before descending to Barafundle Bay, consistently rated one of Britain’s best beaches. The turquoise water and golden sand framed by cliffs are simply gorgeous.
Continue to Stackpole Quay, a picturesque former harbour in a sheltered inlet. The Boathouse tearoom here does excellent cakes (opening times vary seasonally).
From Stackpole Quay, the path rounds Stackpole Head with spectacular views, then drops into Broad Haven South, another stunning beach backed by sand dunes.
The final stretch to Freshwater East is relatively easy clifftop walking.
PEMBROKE TO ANGLE (11 miles, 4-5 hours)
This section includes a long road walk through Pembroke town, past the impressive Norman castle. The trail then follows the shore of Pembroke River before reaching the open coast at Angle Bay.
Angle village sits at the entrance to Milford Haven waterway. The West Angle Bay section beyond the village offers lovely coastal walking before you need to arrange accommodation or continue.
MARLOES TO ST DAVIDS (via Broad Haven and Solva, 23 miles over 2 days)
The walking north of Marloes becomes increasingly spectacular. The cliffs rise higher, the views expand, and the sense of remoteness grows.
Highlights include:
- Marloes Sands: A magnificent beach backed by dramatic cliffs
- Broad Haven: A popular beach with cafés and facilities
- Nolton Haven: A quieter cove with a friendly pub
- Newgale: A 2-mile stretch of sand popular with surfers
- Solva: A picturesque harbour village perfect for lunch
The final approach to St Davids crosses Whitesands Bay, one of Pembrokeshire’s finest beaches, before cutting inland to Britain’s smallest city.
ST DAVIDS PENINSULA (St Davids to Porthgain, 14 miles, 6-7 hours)
Many consider this the trail’s finest section. I’d have to agree.
Start by visiting St Davids Cathedral, a magnificent building hidden in a hollow (admission free, donations welcome). The city has excellent shops, restaurants, and facilities for restocking supplies.
The path heads north from St Davids, passing Whitesands Bay again before climbing onto St Davids Head. This rocky headland feels wild and remote, with views across to Ramsey Island.
The trail then follows a magnificent stretch of coastline, passing:
- Porthmelgan: A hidden cove requiring a steep descent
- Abereiddy: The Blue Lagoon, a former slate quarry now filled with seawater
- Traeth Llyfn: A remote pebble beach
The section ends at Porthgain, a former industrial harbour now a charming village. The Sloop Inn here serves excellent meals and local ales (opening 12 PM-11 PM daily).
STRUMBLE HEAD SECTION (Pwll Deri area, various options)
The coastline around Strumble Head features the path’s highest cliffs and most dramatic scenery. The walking is tough but the rewards are immense.
Strumble Head itself has a distinctive lighthouse and is an excellent spot for watching dolphins and porpoises, especially in summer months.
This section can be extremely exposed in bad weather. If strong winds are forecast, consider walking inland alternatives or taking a rest day.
NEWPORT TO ST DOGMAELS (15 miles, 6-7 hours)
The final section maintains the drama right to the end. You’ll pass Ceibwr Bay, a stunning cove, before the long climb up and over Cemaes Head, one of the highest points on the entire trail at 170 meters above sea level.
The views from Cemaes Head back along the Pembrokeshire coast are spectacular, a fitting finale to the journey.
From here, the path descends gradually towards Cardigan and the finish at St Dogmaels. The trail officially ends at the stone marking the northern terminus, near St Dogmaels Abbey ruins.
ACCOMMODATION ALONG THE ROUTE
Accommodation options vary significantly along the trail:
TYPES OF ACCOMMODATION
Hotels and B&Bs: Available in all major towns (Tenby, Pembroke, St Davids, Fishguard, Newport). Prices range from £40-100+ per person per night. Book well in advance for summer months.
Pubs with Rooms: Many villages have pubs offering accommodation. Often good value at £35-60 per person, and you’re guaranteed a good dinner.
Campsites: Numerous campsites along the route, though sometimes requiring short detours from the trail. Prices typically £8-15 per person. Wild camping is not permitted in the National Park.
Hostels: YHA hostels at Broad Haven, Pwll Deri, and Poppit Sands (near St Dogmaels). Budget-friendly at £20-30 per person.
Bunkhouses: Several independent bunkhouses offer dorm accommodation at £15-25 per person.
BOOKING ACCOMMODATION
I strongly recommend booking your full itinerary before starting, especially if walking May-September. Popular spots fill up months in advance.
Several companies offer pre-booked itineraries with luggage transfer:
- Celtic Trails
- Pembrokeshire Coastal Cottages
- Macs Adventure
These cost more but remove the stress of planning and booking.
PUBS AND CAFÉS ALONG THE ROUTE
One of the great pleasures of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is the abundance of excellent pubs and cafés.
MY FAVORITE STOPS
The Sloop Inn, Porthgain: Wonderful harbourside pub with fresh seafood, local ales, and a warm atmosphere. Open daily from 12 PM.
The Old Point House, Angle: Traditional pub in a beautiful setting at the waterway entrance. Great food and sunset views.
The Ship Inn, Solva: Historic harbourside inn with excellent food. Book ahead for dinner in summer.
The Farmers Arms, Mathry: Slightly inland but worth the detour. Award-winning pub food and real ales.
The Castle Inn, Little Haven: Cozy pub with great views across the bay. Perfect for an evening meal.
CAFÉS AND TEAROOMS
The Boathouse Tearoom, Stackpole Quay: Scenic location with homemade cakes (seasonal opening, typically April-October).
Coetan Café, St Davids: Excellent breakfasts and lunches, popular with walkers (open 8:30 AM-5 PM).
The Old Sailors, Pwll Deri: Basic but welcoming refreshment stop at the youth hostel (open to non-guests).
Most villages have at least one café or shop for supplies. Larger towns have supermarkets for restocking food.
BEST TIME TO HIKE THE PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path can be walked year-round, but timing affects your experience significantly.
SPRING (April-May)
Spring is my favorite time. The coastal flowers are spectacular, baby birds are everywhere, and the weather is often surprisingly good. Days are long enough for comfortable hiking, and accommodation is easier to book than summer.
I walked in late April and enjoyed mostly dry weather, minimal crowds, and carpets of wildflowers along the cliffs.
Pros: Beautiful flowers, fewer crowds, reasonable accommodation availability Cons: Some facilities closed, potentially unsettled weather
SUMMER (June-August)
Peak season brings the best weather, longest days, and all facilities open. However, it also means crowds at popular spots and fully booked accommodation.
Pros: Best weather, longest days, all facilities open Cons: Crowded beaches and towns, accommodation expensive and must be pre-booked
AUTUMN (September-October)
Excellent walking conditions continue into autumn. September is often drier than summer, with autumn colors emerging in October. Sea temperature is at its warmest for post-hike swims.
Pros: Good weather, fewer crowds than summer, beautiful light Cons: Days shortening, some facilities closing
WINTER (November-March)
Winter walking offers solitude and dramatic storm-watching opportunities, but requires more self-sufficiency. Many facilities close, days are short, and weather can be harsh.
Only experienced walkers should attempt the full trail in winter. Sections can be walked successfully, but plan carefully.
WHAT TO TAKE ON THE HIKE
ESSENTIAL GEAR
Hiking Boots: Absolutely essential. The terrain is too challenging for trail shoes. I use waterproof leather boots with ankle support and Vibram soles.
Waterproof Jacket and Trousers: Welsh weather is notoriously unpredictable. Quality waterproofs are essential. I use breathable Gore-Tex gear.
Backpack: If carrying your own gear, you’ll need a 50-60L pack. If using luggage transfer, a 20-25L daypack is sufficient. I strongly recommend luggage transfer if your budget allows.
Hiking Poles: The constant elevation changes make poles extremely valuable for reducing knee strain. I wouldn’t walk this trail without them.
Multiple Layers: Weather changes rapidly on exposed clifftops. Bring base layers, fleece or down jacket, and wind-resistant layers.
CLOTHING
Walking Trousers: Quick-drying hiking trousers are ideal. Avoid jeans, which are uncomfortable when wet.
Walking Socks: Bring multiple pairs of good quality hiking socks. Blister prevention is crucial.
Hat and Gloves: Even in summer, mornings can be chilly. In shoulder seasons, warm accessories are essential.
Sun Protection: Sunglasses, sunscreen (SPF 30+), and a sun hat. Coastal sun is intense.
NAVIGATION
OS Maps: Either paper maps (Explorer OL35 and OL36) or the OS Maps app with offline maps downloaded.
Compass: Always carry one, even if using GPS.
Phone with Battery Pack: For navigation, photos, and emergencies. The path is well-marked but GPS is reassuring.
FOOD AND WATER
Water Bottles/Bladder: Carry at least 2 liters. Streams are unreliable and may require treatment.
Snacks: High-energy trail mix, bars, fruit, sandwiches for lunch.
Water Purification: Tablets or filter for emergencies, though village shops and pubs are frequent enough.
FIRST AID AND SAFETY
First Aid Kit: Blister treatments, pain relief, bandages, antiseptic.
Emergency Shelter: Lightweight bivvy bag or survival bag.
Whistle and Torch: For emergencies.
Tick Removal Tool: Ticks are common in summer months.
WILDLIFE AND NATURE
The Pembrokeshire coastline supports incredible biodiversity.
SEABIRDS
Thousands of seabirds nest on the cliffs, including guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and fulmars. Puffins nest on offshore islands like Skomer (reached by boat from Martin’s Haven).
The best time for seabird watching is May to July during nesting season.
MARINE MAMMALS
Grey seals haul out on beaches throughout Pembrokeshire. You’ll likely spot them, especially in quieter coves.
Dolphins and porpoises are regularly seen from headlands, particularly around Strumble Head and St Davids. Watch in calm conditions at dawn or dusk.
WILD FLOWERS
Spring brings carpets of wildflowers to the coastal grasslands: sea campion, thrift (sea pink), bluebells, and later, heather.
The Pembrokeshire coast has several rare plant species found nowhere else in Wales.
GREY SEALS
Pembrokeshire hosts one of Britain’s largest grey seal populations. September is pupping season when beaches become seal nurseries (observe from a distance).
CHALLENGES AND CONSIDERATIONS
PHYSICAL DEMANDS
The cumulative elevation gain cannot be overstated. While daily sections seem modest on paper, the constant climbing makes this trail very demanding. Build your fitness beforehand with hillwalking practice.
WEATHER EXPOSURE
Coastal paths are exposed to wind, rain, and sun. Weather can change rapidly. Always check forecasts and carry appropriate gear.
NAVIGATION
While generally well-marked with acorn waymarkers, some sections can be confusing, especially in poor visibility. Confident navigation skills are important.
REMOTENESS
Some sections, particularly north of St Davids, are remote. Mobile phone coverage can be patchy. Always tell someone your plans.
TIDE TIMES
A few sections require tide awareness. Check tide times at Angle Bay and plan accordingly. Never attempt to round headlands at high tide unless you’re certain it’s safe.
PRACTICAL TIPS
Break in Your Boots: Ensure boots are well broken in before starting. Blisters can end your walk.
Start Early: Begin walking by 8-9 AM to allow plenty of time, especially on longer sections.
Blister Management: Treat hot spots immediately before they become blisters. Carry Compeed or similar.
Take Rest Days: Consider building rest days into longer itineraries, perhaps at Tenby, St Davids, or Newport.
Support Local: Use local pubs, cafés, and shops. They’re vital to the trail’s infrastructure.
Leave No Trace: Take all litter with you. Respect the countryside code.
Book Ahead: Accommodation, especially in summer. Also book luggage transfer services early.
ALTERNATIVE SECTIONS
If the full trail seems daunting, these sections make excellent multi-day walks:
Southern Section (Amroth to Angle, 60 miles): Gentler terrain, excellent beaches, historic towns.
St Davids Peninsula (Marloes to Fishguard, 55 miles): The most dramatic section, spectacular cliff scenery.
Northern Section (Fishguard to St Dogmaels, 30 miles): Highest cliffs, most remote sections, dramatic finish.
Each can be walked in 4-5 days, making them perfect for a long weekend or week’s holiday.
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is an unforgettable journey. Whether you tackle the full 186 miles or explore shorter sections, you’ll discover one of Britain’s finest coastal landscapes. The combination of dramatic scenery, charming villages, abundant wildlife, and excellent facilities makes this a world-class long-distance trail.