How To Hike the West Highland Way (Complete Guide & Map)
The West Highland Way is Scotland’s first and most famous long-distance trail, stretching through some of the most spectacular landscapes in the Scottish Highlands. It’s an unforgettable journey through glens, lochs, and mountains.
The West Highland Way is a 96-mile (154 km) trail that runs from Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, to Fort William in the shadow of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain. Along the way, you’ll traverse ancient drovers’ roads, pass the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, cross the desolate beauty of Rannoch Moor, and wind through the dramatic Glen Coe.
This legendary trail takes you through lowland forests, along Scotland’s largest loch, across windswept moorland, and into the heart of the Highlands. Each section offers something different: from gentle woodland paths to challenging mountain terrain.
The walk is typically completed over 6-8 days, though experienced hikers can tackle it faster and leisurely walkers might take 10 days. You’ll encounter everything from easy forest tracks to steep, rocky ascents and boggy moorland.
The scenery is constantly changing and spectacular throughout. From the peaceful shores of Loch Lomond to the imposing peaks of the Highlands, you’ll pass through landscapes steeped in history and natural beauty.
Scotland is famous for its welcoming hospitality, and you’ll find this along the trail. Cosy pubs, comfortable accommodation, and friendly locals make the journey as memorable as the landscapes.
The walk is graded moderate, though some sections are more challenging than others. You’ll need good fitness, proper gear, and the ability to navigate in changeable weather conditions.
In this blog post, I’ve covered everything you need to know about hiking the West Highland Way, including how to get to the trailhead, accommodation options, detailed stage-by-stage instructions, and what to pack.
WEST HIGHLAND WAY HIKE OVERVIEW
- Start: Milngavie (near Glasgow)
- Finish: Fort William
- Distance: 96 miles / 154 km
- Duration: 6-8 days (typical)
- Elevation gain: Approximately 4,500 meters cumulative
- Difficulty: Moderate (with some challenging sections)
The West Highland Way is one of the UK’s most popular long-distance trails, and for good reason. The variety of terrain and scenery makes it an exceptional hiking experience.
The trail begins in Milngavie, a suburban town easily accessible from Glasgow. From here, you’ll head north through gentle farmland and woodland before reaching the stunning Loch Lomond.
The route follows the eastern shore of Loch Lomond for about 20 miles, offering beautiful loch views and passing through ancient oak forests. This section can be challenging with some rocky, narrow paths.
After leaving Loch Lomond, the trail crosses into the Highlands proper. You’ll traverse the remote Rannoch Moor, one of Europe’s last great wildernesses, before descending into Glen Coe with its dramatic mountain scenery.
The final stretch takes you through the Lairig Mor and along the River Nevis into Fort William, with Ben Nevis dominating the skyline.
I’ve rated the hike as moderate because while much of it is on good paths, there are several factors to consider.
Firstly, the distance and cumulative elevation gain require good fitness levels. Walking 15-20 miles per day for several consecutive days can be tough on your legs and feet.
Secondly, Scottish weather can be unpredictable and challenging. You might face rain, wind, midges, and occasionally even snow on higher sections, even in summer.
Finally, some sections are technically challenging. The eastern shore of Loch Lomond has rocky, root-filled paths that require concentration. The Devil’s Staircase involves a steep 250m climb and can be treacherous in poor weather.
Most people take 7 days to complete the trail, walking 12-16 miles per day. This allows time to enjoy the scenery, stop at villages along the way, and rest your legs.
WEST HIGHLAND WAY STAGE BREAKDOWN
Here’s a suggested 7-day itinerary:
Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen (12 miles) Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan (14 miles) Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan (14 miles) Day 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum (12.5 miles) Day 5: Tyndrum to Kings House (19 miles) Day 6: Kings House to Kinlochleven (9 miles) Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William (15 miles)
WEST HIGHLAND WAY MAP
Below is an overview of the West Highland Way route from Milngavie to Fort William, showing the main stages and key landmarks along the trail.
The walk begins in Milngavie (marked at the southern end) and finishes in Fort William (marked at the northern end).
Major landmarks include Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor, Glen Coe, and the Mamores.
If you prefer a physical map, I recommend: Harvey Maps – West Highland Way or Ordnance Survey – OL38, OL39, OL41, and 364.
For digital maps, download the OS Maps app which has the entire route with offline capability. The Maps.me app with Scotland downloaded also works well.
GETTING TO THE TRAILHEAD
The West Highland Way starts in Milngavie, a town about 7 miles north of Glasgow city centre.
BY TRAIN
This is the easiest option. Milngavie is on Glasgow’s suburban rail network and is easily reached from Glasgow Queen Street Station. Trains run every 15 minutes throughout the day and take about 20 minutes. The station is a 5-minute walk from the official start point.
BY BUS
First Bus service 60 and 60A run between Glasgow and Milngavie regularly throughout the day, departing from Buchanan Street Bus Station.
BY CAR
If you’re driving, Milngavie is about 10 miles north of Glasgow via the A81. There are several car parks in the town center near the start of the trail. However, remember you’ll need to arrange transport back from Fort William to collect your car.
GETTING BACK FROM FORT WILLIAM
Fort William is well connected by public transport:
By Train: ScotRail operates services from Fort William to Glasgow Queen Street (3 hours) and Edinburgh (4.5 hours). There’s also the overnight Caledonian Sleeper to London.
By Bus: Scottish Citylink runs coaches from Fort William to Glasgow (3 hours) and Edinburgh (3.5 hours) multiple times daily.
By Car: Several companies offer baggage transfer services and can also arrange vehicle transfers from Fort William back to Milngavie.
HIKING INSTRUCTIONS
STAGE 1: MILNGAVIE TO DRYMEN (12 miles / 4-5 hours)
The trail officially begins at the obelisk in Milngavie town center. Take a photo at this famous starting point before heading north out of town.
The first few miles follow quiet paths through Mugdock Wood and Allander Park. It’s a gentle introduction, perfect for settling into your hiking rhythm.
The path emerges from the woods and crosses farmland before reaching the tiny hamlet of Drymen. This pleasant village has several pubs, shops, and accommodation options.
This stage is mostly flat with good paths, making it an easy first day. I spent about 4 hours walking, though with breaks, it took about 5-6 hours total.
STAGE 2: DRYMEN TO ROWARDENNAN (14 miles / 5-6 hours)
From Drymen, the trail heads through Garadhban Forest, climbing steadily to Conic Hill. This 361m summit offers your first views of Loch Lomond stretching north into the Highlands.
The descent from Conic Hill brings you to the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond at Balmaha, a popular spot for a break with a small visitor center and pub.
From Balmaha, the trail follows the loch shore through ancient oak woodland to Rowardennan. The path undulates through the trees with frequent glimpses of the loch and its islands.
Rowardennan sits at the foot of Ben Lomond (974m), Scotland’s most southerly Munro. If you have energy and good weather, it’s worth the 3-4 hour detour to the summit.
This stage took me about 5.5 hours of walking time. The climb over Conic Hill is the main challenge.
STAGE 3: ROWARDENNAN TO INVERARNAN (14 miles / 6-7 hours)
This is one of the most challenging and beautiful sections of the entire trail. The path follows the eastern shore of Loch Lomond through narrow, rocky sections requiring concentration.
The trail weaves through ancient oak forest, across wooden boardwalks, and over tree roots. Some sections are close to the water’s edge with steep drops, so care is needed.
You’ll pass several remote bays and beaches, perfect for breaks. The isolation and natural beauty of this section make it special despite the technical terrain.
The path eventually leaves the loch shore and climbs through forestry before descending to Inverarnan at the head of Loch Lomond.
This was my longest day at about 6.5 hours of walking. The terrain is slow-going but incredibly scenic. Take your time and watch your footing, especially if the rocks are wet.
STAGE 4: INVERARNAN TO TYNDRUM (12.5 miles / 5-6 hours)
Leaving Loch Lomond behind, you’re now officially in the Highlands. The trail follows an old military road through Glen Falloch alongside the River Falloch.
You’ll pass several waterfalls, including the picturesque Falls of Falloch, before climbing through forestry to reach Crianlarich. This small village has shops and accommodation.
From Crianlarich, the route continues through Strathfillan, crossing beneath the railway line and past St. Fillan’s Priory ruins.
The stage ends at Tyndrum, a small village that straddles the A82. It’s a good place to resupply, with shops, cafes, and several accommodation options.
This stage is relatively easy with good tracks. I completed it in about 5 hours of walking.
STAGE 5: TYNDRUM TO KINGS HOUSE (19 miles / 7-8 hours)
This is the longest stage and crosses some of the most remote terrain on the entire trail. You’ll traverse Rannoch Moor, one of Europe’s last great wildernesses.
The trail climbs steadily from Tyndrum, following an old military road. Views open up as you gain height, revealing the vast expanse of moorland ahead.
Crossing Rannoch Moor is an unforgettable experience. The landscape is desolate and beautiful, with only the path, the railway line, and the mountains for company.
You’ll pass the remote Glencoe Ski Centre before descending to the Kings House Hotel, sitting alone at the junction of Glen Coe and Glen Etive.
This is a long day. It took me about 7.5 hours of walking, and I was grateful for the pub at the end. The terrain is good underfoot but exposed to weather.
STAGE 6: KINGS HOUSE TO KINLOCHLEVEN (9 miles / 4-5 hours)
Don’t be fooled by the short distance – this stage includes the steepest climb on the entire trail: the Devil’s Staircase.
The path heads east from Kings House before climbing the 270m ascent known as the Devil’s Staircase. This old military road zigzags steeply uphill, earning every meter of elevation.
At the top (550m), you’re rewarded with spectacular views back across Rannoch Moor and forward to the Mamores range.
The descent into Kinlochleven is long and can be tough on the knees. This former aluminum smelting village sits at the head of Loch Leven and has good facilities.
Despite the short distance, this stage took me about 4.5 hours. The climb is challenging, especially in poor weather or high winds.
STAGE 7: KINLOCHLEVEN TO FORT WILLIAM (15 miles / 6-7 hours)
The final stage is a fitting end to the journey. The trail climbs out of Kinlochleven through the Lairig Mor, passing through spectacular mountain scenery.
You’ll reach a high point of 335m with views of Ben Nevis ahead – your destination and Britain’s highest mountain.
The path descends through forestry before emerging at Lundavra. From here, it’s a pleasant walk alongside the River Nevis into Fort William.
The trail officially ends at Gordon Square in Fort William town center. Celebrate your achievement – you’ve just completed one of Britain’s classic walks!
This final stage took me about 6 hours. The climb out of Kinlochleven is the main challenge, but the downhill into Fort William lifts your spirits.
ACCOMMODATION ALONG THE WAY
One of the great things about the West Highland Way is the variety of accommodation available along the route.
HOTELS AND B&Bs
Every stage end has at least one hotel or B&B, though booking in advance is essential during peak season (May-September). Expect to pay £40-80 per person per night for B&B accommodation.
HOSTELS AND BUNKHOUSES
There are excellent hostels and bunkhouses along the entire route, including SYHA hostels at Rowardennan and Glen Nevis. These offer budget accommodation from £20-30 per night.
CAMPSITES
For wild camping enthusiasts, there are official campsites at most stage ends. Wild camping is also possible in many areas, following the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
BAGGAGE TRANSFER
Several companies offer baggage transfer services, carrying your main luggage to your next accommodation while you hike with just a daypack. This makes the journey much more comfortable.
I used a mix of B&Bs and hostels, booking everything several months in advance. The hospitality was excellent throughout.
BEST TIME TO HIKE THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
The best time to hike the West Highland Way is from May to September. The days are longest, the weather is (relatively) warmest, and all facilities are open.
May to June: My personal favorite time. Days are long, midges haven’t peaked, and wild flowers are blooming. It can still be cool, especially in the mornings.
July to August: Peak season with the warmest weather and most daylight. However, it’s also the busiest time, and midges can be ferocious, especially in the evenings.
September: Another excellent time with autumn colors, fewer midges, and less crowded trails. Weather can be more changeable.
I hiked in early June and had generally good weather, though I encountered rain on three days. The trail was busy but not overcrowded.
Avoid winter hiking unless you’re experienced in mountain navigation and winter conditions. The higher sections can be dangerous with ice, snow, and limited daylight.
WHAT TO TAKE ON THE HIKE
Hiking Boots: Essential. You’ll be walking 100 miles, so choose boots you’ve broken in. I use waterproof leather boots similar to Scarpa or Salomon models.
Hiking Poles: Highly recommended, especially for the descents. They save your knees and improve stability on rocky sections. I use Black Diamond Trail Ergo poles.
Waterproofs: Non-negotiable in Scotland. You need a good waterproof jacket and trousers. Rain is likely at some point, and being wet makes everything miserable.
Midges Protection: From June to August, bring midge repellent, a midge head net, and consider long sleeves. Scottish midges are legendary and can ruin your breaks.
Layers: Weather changes rapidly. Bring base layers, fleece, and a warm jacket. I use a merino wool base layer system.
Backpack: A 40-50 liter pack if carrying everything, or 20-30 liters if using baggage transfer. I used a 45-liter pack for my gear.
Water: Carry at least 2 liters. There are streams along the way, but a water filter is useful. I use a 2-liter hydration bladder plus a spare bottle.
Navigation: Download offline maps on your phone. Also carry a physical map as backup (Harvey Maps or OS maps). Weather can be misty, making navigation challenging.
First Aid Kit: Bring blister treatment (essential!), painkillers, antiseptic, and any personal medications.
Sun Protection: Yes, even in Scotland! I got sunburned on Rannoch Moor. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
Emergency Shelter: A lightweight emergency bivvy bag is worth carrying for safety on exposed sections.
Food: There are shops and cafes at most stage ends, but carry snacks, energy bars, and lunch for each day.
Cash: Some remote places don’t accept cards. Carry enough cash for emergencies.
TIPS FOR HIKING THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
Book accommodation early: Especially for peak season. B&Bs and hostels fill up months in advance.
Break in your boots: Walk at least 50 miles in your boots before starting. Blisters can end your hike.
Start early: Begin each day early to avoid crowds and allow plenty of time. Weather often deteriorates in the afternoon.
Take rest days: Consider a rest day or two, perhaps in Rowardennan or Kinlochleven. Your body will thank you.
Check the weather: Scottish weather changes rapidly. Check forecasts daily and be prepared to adjust plans.
Respect the environment: Follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. Take all litter with you and camp responsibly.
Pace yourself: The first day excitement can lead to going too fast. Pace yourself – you have a week ahead.
Enjoy the pubs: Scottish hospitality is legendary. The end-of-day pint at a Highland pub is one of the great pleasures of the trail.
The West Highland Way is an incredible hiking experience that I’ll never forget. The combination of stunning scenery, good paths, and excellent infrastructure makes it perfect for your first long-distance trail or a classic addition to your hiking CV.
Every section offers something different, from the peaceful beauty of Loch Lomond to the wild desolation of Rannoch Moor. You’ll finish tired but exhilarated, with memories to last a lifetime.
If you’re thinking about hiking the West Highland Way, stop thinking and start planning. It’s an adventure you won’t regret.