Mexico is an ideal destination for an unforgettable travel adventure. This detailed two-week Mexico travel itinerary covers the best places in the country that you can visit in 10-14 days.

Mexico is a vast and diverse country with an incredible amount to see! Winding coastal highways lead through colorful colonial towns, ancient Mayan ruins, turquoise cenotes, stunning beaches, and dramatic mountain ranges. Therefore, going on a Mexico road trip is by far the best way to explore this vibrant country.

With your own wheels, you will be able to explore the best places in Mexico conveniently. Although some sights can be reached by public transport or organized tours, many of the most amazing places are best accessed by car, giving you the freedom to stop at hidden gems along the way.

Based on my experience of several visits to this wonderful country, I put together this comprehensive 2-week Mexico travel itinerary covering the Yucatan Peninsula, colonial heartland, beaches, and ancient ruins. It also indicates distances traveled, provides an interactive map, and suggests places to stay in Mexico.

Essential Travel Resources:

Car rental tip 1: Discover Cars is an excellent car rental comparison site that helps you find the best rates in Mexico. By comparing prices between different rental companies, you can save up to 70% on your rental rate. Always opt for full coverage insurance when driving in Mexico.
Car rental tip 2: For those exploring the Yucatan, local companies often offer competitive rates. Book in advance for the best deals, especially during high season (December-April).
Stay: I booked all my accommodation in Mexico on Booking.com and Airbnb.
Travel Insurance: Purchase reliable travel insurance at SafetyWing or Heymondo (essential for Mexico trips).
Check the best tours in Mexico on Viator and GetYourGuide.

Summary of My Mexico Travel Itinerary Route

Day 1-2: Cancun – Playa del Carmen – Tulum
Day 3: Tulum Ruins, Cenotes, and Beaches
Day 4: Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve
Day 5: Bacalar Lagoon
Day 6: Mahahual and Chetumal
Day 7: Calakmul Archaeological Site and Becan
Day 8: Palenque Ruins and Waterfalls
Day 9: San Cristobal de las Casas
Day 10: San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan
Day 11: Sumidero Canyon – Tuxtla Gutierrez
Day 12: Oaxaca City
Day 13: Monte Alban and Hierve el Agua
Day 14: Oaxaca Markets and Cooking Class

If I had One Week in Mexico, my itinerary would include Cancun – Playa del Carmen – Tulum – Cenotes – Bacalar – Calakmul – Palenque.

If I had 10 Days in Mexico, my itinerary would include Cancun – Tulum – Sian Ka’an – Bacalar – Calakmul – Palenque – San Cristobal de las Casas – Oaxaca.

Mexico Travel Itinerary Planning Tips

Renting a Car in Mexico

Major car rental companies operate from Cancun International Airport and throughout major tourist areas. However, I would suggest checking either Discover Cars or Rental Cars for comparison shopping. These car search websites usually offer lower rates compared to booking directly with rental companies.

IMPORTANT: Always purchase full insurance coverage when renting in Mexico. The roads can be unpredictable, and having comprehensive coverage gives you peace of mind. Many credit card insurance policies don’t cover Mexico, so verify before declining additional coverage.

Driving in Mexico

Driving is an excellent way to explore beautiful Mexico, especially the Yucatan Peninsula and southern regions. Having your own ride allows you to access every highlight and discover hidden cenotes, remote beaches, and small villages that tour buses never reach.

However, driving in Mexico requires extra caution compared to other countries. Here are some important considerations:

Toll roads (cuotas) are expensive but well-maintained and safer. Free roads (libres) are slower with more potholes and traffic.
Speed bumps (topes) appear suddenly in villages – always slow down when entering populated areas.
Police checkpoints are common, especially in southern states. Always be polite and have your documents ready.
Night driving should be avoided in rural areas due to poor lighting, animals on roads, and safety concerns.
Gas stations (Pemex) can be sparse in remote areas – always fill up when you see one.

Despite these challenges, I found driving in Mexico to be manageable and incredibly rewarding. The freedom to explore at your own pace makes it worth the extra attention required.

Where to Stay During the Mexico Travel Itinerary

On every trip, including this travel itinerary in Mexico, I try to find a mix of boutique hotels, locally-owned guesthouses, and unique accommodations like eco-lodges. This approach allows me to experience authentic Mexican hospitality while supporting local businesses.

When looking for accommodation in Mexico with a rental car, important criteria include secure parking (essential!), air conditioning (Mexico gets HOT), and location relative to main attractions.

Accommodation: I book my stays through Booking.com and Airbnb. Both platforms provide excellent options for any budget. Booking.com offers great Genius discounts (10-30%) for returning customers, while Airbnb provides unique local experiences.

Tip: Always check the cancellation policy. I usually book places with flexible cancellation terms in case plans change – which happens frequently when traveling through Mexico!

Hotel Summary List:

I booked all my Mexico accommodation through a combination of Booking.com and Airbnb. You can find more detailed comments on each place I stayed at later in this post, at the end of each day section.

Playa del Carmen – Casa Tucan Hotel – 2 nights
Tulum – Holistika Tulum – 2 consecutive nights
Bacalar – Casa Bakal – 1 night
Palenque – Boutique Hotel Quinta Chanabnal – 1 night
San Cristobal de las Casas – Casa Santa Lucia – 3 consecutive nights
Oaxaca City – Hotel Casa Oaxaca – 3 consecutive nights

What to Expect in Mexico?

In Mexico, you will be treated to pristine Caribbean beaches with powder-white sand, ancient Mayan ruins hidden in jungle settings, crystal-clear cenotes perfect for swimming, vibrant colonial cities painted in every color imaginable, and some of the most delicious food you’ll ever taste. You’ll witness Day of the Dead celebrations (if visiting in November), explore underground rivers, climb pyramid temples, swim with sea turtles, and immerse yourself in indigenous cultures that have thrived for thousands of years.

The warmth of Mexican hospitality will surprise you at every turn. From street food vendors offering generous portions with huge smiles to locals helping you navigate when you’re lost, Mexico’s people make this country truly special. You’ll dance to mariachi music, learn to make authentic mole sauce, bargain at colorful markets, and discover that Mexico is so much more than what’s portrayed in the media.

How Many Days Do You Need in Mexico?

Based on my experience from multiple visits to the country, if you want to explore the highlights of southern Mexico and the Yucatan, two weeks is sufficient time to do so without feeling rushed. Even in one week, you can tackle quite a few highlights, especially if you focus on the Yucatan Peninsula.

In this post, I also highlight the absolute must-see places in Mexico for those who have less time to spare. Moreover, I mention places that I skipped and which I wish I had skipped.

Note: This itinerary focuses on southern Mexico and the Yucatan Peninsula. If you fly into Mexico City, you can easily create an alternative itinerary exploring central Mexico, including Mexico City, Puebla, Guanajuato, and San Miguel de Allende.

When to Visit Mexico?

The best time to visit Mexico depends on what you want to experience:

High Season (December-April): Perfect weather with minimal rain, but prices are highest and beaches/ruins are most crowded. This is peak season for good reason – temperatures are comfortable (75-85°F) and sunshine is almost guaranteed.

Shoulder Season (November and May): Excellent time to visit! Weather is still great, crowds are smaller, and prices drop significantly. November also offers Day of the Dead celebrations.

Low Season (June-October): Hurricane season with higher humidity and afternoon rain showers. However, you’ll find the best deals and fewer tourists. Rain usually comes in short bursts in the afternoon, leaving mornings clear for exploring.

I visited during late November, which was perfect – comfortable weather, manageable crowds, and reasonable prices.

Budget for Your Travel Itinerary in Mexico

Mexico offers excellent value compared to many tourist destinations. However, prices vary significantly between tourist hotspots (Tulum, Playa del Carmen) and local areas. A rough breakdown of expected costs:

Accommodation: $40-$80/night for a nice hotel or Airbnb with air conditioning
Dine out: $15-$35/day depending on whether you eat at local taquerias or tourist restaurants
Car Rental: $25-$45/day for a car booked in advance (including insurance)
Fuel: Approximately $1.10-$1.30/liter (prices fluctuate)
Archaeological sites: $4-$8 entrance fees per site
Cenotes: $5-$15 entrance fees depending on facilities

Total estimated budget: $100-$150 per person per day including accommodation, food, transportation, and activities.

Mexico 2-Week Travel Itinerary Day by Day

For those of you who want to have a good grasp on what this incredible country has to offer, here is my day-by-day breakdown of the route I took during my two-week travel itinerary in Mexico.

Day 1-2: Cancun – Playa del Carmen – Tulum

Distance covered: 130 KM
Total drive time: 1 HR 45 MIN (without traffic)
Overnight in: Playa del Carmen for 2 consecutive nights

If you’ve landed in Cancun, I suggest picking up your rental car and heading straight south along the famous Riviera Maya. While Cancun itself is dominated by massive all-inclusive resorts and spring breakers, the real magic of the Mexican Caribbean awaits further south.

I spent only a few hours in Cancun, just enough to grab lunch and adjust to the tropical heat. The Hotel Zone is impressive in scale but feels more like Miami than Mexico. If you’re seeking authentic experiences, skip the Hotel Zone entirely and head straight to Playa del Carmen.

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

Playa del Carmen (often called “Playa” by locals) strikes a perfect balance between tourist infrastructure and Mexican charm. Once a sleepy fishing village, it has grown into a vibrant beach town while maintaining more character than Cancun.

Things to Do in Playa del Carmen

• Explore Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue)

The pedestrian-only Fifth Avenue runs parallel to the beach and is the heart of Playa del Carmen. Here you’ll find everything from designer boutiques to artisan markets, rooftop bars to street tacos. I loved wandering this street at sunset when the energy picks up – street performers, musicians, and the aroma of fresh churros fill the air.

USEFUL TIP: Visit Fifth Avenue early morning (7-8 AM) to enjoy empty streets and photograph the colorful buildings without crowds. By noon, it becomes packed with tourists.

• Relax on Playa del Carmen Beach

The main beach is beautiful with soft white sand and turquoise waters. While the beach clubs charge for loungers, you can easily lay your towel on the public sections. I found a perfect spot near Calle 28 where locals gather, making it feel more authentic than the tourist-heavy southern section.

• Take a Ferry to Cozumel Island

If you have extra time, the ferry to Cozumel departs regularly from Playa del Carmen (about 45 minutes, $12-15 each way). Cozumel is famous for world-class diving and snorkeling. I did a snorkeling tour at Palancar Reef and was blown away by the vibrant coral and tropical fish. Book through GetYourGuide for the best rates.

• Experience Parque Los Fundadores

This beachfront park comes alive at sunset. Here you’ll witness the famous “Danza de los Voladores” (Dance of the Flyers) – an ancient Mesoamerican ceremony where performers spin upside down from a 30-meter pole. It’s mesmerizing and deeply spiritual. Performances usually happen around 6-7 PM.

PARKING TIP: Parking in Playa del Carmen can be challenging and expensive. Look for public parking lots (estacionamientos) a few blocks from Fifth Avenue where rates are cheaper ($2-3/hour). Many restaurants offer free parking if you dine with them.

CENOTE HOPPING NEAR PLAYA DEL CARMEN

One of the absolute highlights of my Mexico trip was discovering cenotes – natural sinkholes filled with crystal-clear freshwater. The Yucatan Peninsula has thousands of them, and the area around Playa del Carmen offers some of the most accessible and beautiful.

• Cenote Azul

Located just 25 minutes south of Playa del Carmen, Cenote Azul is an open-air cenote perfect for swimming and cliff jumping. The water is an incredible shade of blue (hence the name), and you can see small fish swimming around you. Entry is about $7, and there are facilities for changing. I arrived at 9 AM and had it almost to myself for the first hour.

• Gran Cenote

On the road to Tulum, Gran Cenote is one of the most photographed cenotes in Mexico. Part open-air and part cave, it features wooden platforms, stalactites, and resident turtles! Yes, you can swim with turtles in freshwater. Entry is around $15, which includes snorkel gear. The cenote gets crowded by 11 AM, so arrive early.

IMPORTANT TIP: Always use biodegradable sunscreen near cenotes. Regular sunscreen damages the delicate ecosystem. Most cenote entrances sell biodegradable options if you forget yours.

Where to Stay in Playa del Carmen?

I stayed at Casa Tucan Hotel, a charming boutique hotel located about 4 blocks from the beach and 2 blocks from Fifth Avenue. The location was perfect – close enough to walk everywhere but far enough to escape the noise at night. The hotel features a beautiful pool surrounded by tropical plants, secure parking, and the staff was incredibly helpful with restaurant recommendations.

What I loved most was the rooftop terrace where I enjoyed my morning coffee watching toucans (yes, actual toucans!) in nearby trees. The rooms have strong air conditioning (essential in Mexican heat) and comfortable beds.

Book your stay at Casa Tucan through Booking.com

Alternative options: For those seeking beachfront luxury, consider Thompson Playa del Carmen. Budget travelers should check out Hostel Playa on Fifth Avenue for social vibes and cheap beds.

Day 3: Tulum Ruins, Cenotes, and Beaches

Distance covered: 85 KM
Total drive time: 1 HR 30 MIN
Overnight in: Tulum for 2 consecutive nights

Tulum is the poster child of Mexico tourism – and for good reason. This bohemian beach town combines ancient Mayan ruins, pristine beaches, Instagram-worthy hotels, and spiritual wellness culture into one irresistible package.

TULUM ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE

The Tulum ruins are the only major Mayan archaeological site located directly on the Caribbean coast. Perched on 12-meter cliffs overlooking turquoise waters, the setting is absolutely breathtaking.

• Beat the Crowds at Tulum Ruins

I learned this lesson the hard way: arrive at opening time (8 AM) or don’t bother. I made the mistake of arriving at 10:30 AM on my first visit and regretted it immediately – tour buses had already unloaded hundreds of tourists, making it nearly impossible to get decent photos without people in them.

On my return visit, I arrived right at 8 AM and had nearly 45 minutes of relative solitude to explore this magical place. The morning light is also perfect for photography, with the sun illuminating the temples from the east.

Entry fee: $5 (80 pesos), parking is extra $3. Bring cash – they don’t always accept cards.

• What to See at Tulum

The site is relatively small compared to other Mayan ruins, so you can explore it thoroughly in 1.5-2 hours. The main highlights include:

El Castillo – The iconic castle that appears in every Tulum photo, perched on the cliff’s edge
Temple of the Frescoes – Features original Mayan murals (though worn by time)
Temple of the Descending God – Named for the carved figure above the doorway
The Beach – Yes, you can access the beach below the ruins via a wooden staircase. It’s small but stunning!

USEFUL TIP: Hire a guide at the entrance ($25-30 for a group tour) to learn the fascinating history. The ruins come alive when you understand their significance – Tulum was a major trading port and one of the last cities inhabited by the Maya.

TULUM BEACHES

Tulum’s beach zone stretches for miles along the coast, divided roughly into three sections:

• Tulum Beach (Hotel Zone)

This is where the famous boutique hotels, beach clubs, and restaurants line the sand. It’s stunning but expensive. A day bed at a beach club costs $30-50 minimum spend. I spent an afternoon at Papaya Playa Project, which was worth it for the bohemian jungle vibes, great music, and delicious ceviche.

• Playa Paraiso (Paradise Beach)

Just south of the ruins, this public beach offers the same white sand and turquoise water without the hefty price tag. It gets crowded, but you can claim your spot for free. There are a few casual restaurants nearby where you can grab fish tacos and cold beers.

• Secret Beach (Playa Xcacel)

Located about 15 minutes north of Tulum, this protected beach is a local secret. It’s a nesting ground for sea turtles, so development is restricted. Entry is only $3, and you’ll find pristine sand, great snorkeling, and far fewer people. I loved this beach because it felt completely unspoiled.

SWIMMING TIP: Be careful of the strong undertow on Tulum beaches. The waves can be powerful, and there are no lifeguards. Stay close to shore if you’re not a strong swimmer.

CENOTES NEAR TULUM

The Tulum area is blessed with some of Mexico’s most beautiful cenotes.

• Cenote Dos Ojos

This is the crown jewel of Tulum cenotes. “Two Eyes” refers to the two connected cenotes that form this massive underground cave system. The water clarity is mind-blowing – you can see 50+ meters ahead. I did both swimming and snorkeling here.

Entry is $15 and includes life jacket. Snorkel gear rental is $5 extra. The cenote is about 15 minutes north of Tulum town. Get there by 9 AM to avoid tour groups.

• Cenote Calavera (Temple of Doom)

This is my personal favorite! Cenote Calavera is an open-air cenote with three holes in the ceiling that look like a skull (calavera means skull). You enter by jumping through one of the holes – about a 5-meter drop into crystal-clear water. It’s thrilling!

Entry is only $5, and it’s much less crowded than the famous cenotes. Located about 3 km west of Tulum town center. The owners are a lovely local family who keep the place pristine.

CENOTE SAFETY TIP: Never dive into cenotes headfirst unless you know the depth. Always jump feet-first. Some cenotes have underwater tree roots and rocks that aren’t visible from above.

TULUM PUEBLO (TOWN)

While everyone talks about Tulum beach, the town itself (Tulum Pueblo) is where locals actually live and where you’ll find the most authentic and affordable food.

• Best Tacos in Tulum

Forget the overpriced beach restaurants. Head to Taqueria Honorio on Avenida Tulum (the main road). This no-frills taco stand serves the best al pastor tacos I’ve ever had – $1 each! I’m not exaggerating when I say I ate here three times during my two-day stay. The lengua (beef tongue) and suadero (brisket) tacos are also phenomenal. Cash only!

• Explore Local Markets

The small mercado (market) in town is perfect for fresh fruit, local snacks, and people-watching. I bought fresh mangoes, passion fruit, and tamarind candy for a fraction of what hotels charge.

Where to Stay in Tulum?

Tulum accommodation falls into two categories: beach zone (expensive, beautiful, no town access) or town (affordable, convenient, need transport to beach).

I chose Holistika Tulum, a boutique eco-hotel that perfectly balances both worlds. Located between town and beach, it offered a peaceful jungle setting with modern amenities, an Instagram-worthy pool, yoga classes, and incredible healthy breakfast. The rooms feature natural materials, outdoor showers, and air conditioning. Secure parking was included.

What made Holistika special was the community vibe – guests gathered for sunset ceremonies, shared travel tips, and the staff organized group cenote trips.

Book your stay at Holistika Tulum through Booking.com

Budget alternative: Look at Selina Tulum (hostel/hotel hybrid) for cheaper options with social atmosphere.

Luxury alternative: If budget allows, Azulik Tulum offers treehouse-style villas directly on the beach (but be prepared to spend $400+/night).

ACCOMMODATION TIP: If staying in Tulum beach zone, rent a bike ($10/day) to get around – the road is sandy and parking is impossible. If staying in town, you’ll need a car or scooter to reach the beach.

Day 4: Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve

Distance covered: 120 KM
Total drive time: 2 HRS 30 MIN (including rough roads)
Overnight in: Tulum

Today is dedicated to exploring one of Mexico’s most pristine natural areas – Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. This UNESCO World Heritage Site protects 1.3 million acres of tropical forests, wetlands, mangroves, and Caribbean reef.

SIAN KA’AN BIOSPHERE RESERVE

Sian Ka’an means “Origin of the Sky” in Mayan language, and after visiting, I completely understand why. The reserve feels untouched by time – endless coastline, crystal-clear lagoons, and wildlife everywhere.

• Book a Tour

While you can drive into Sian Ka’an yourself, I highly recommend booking a guided tour. The ecosystem is complex, and guides know exactly where to spot wildlife and explain the ecological significance of what you’re seeing.

I booked through Community Tours Sian Ka’an, a cooperative of local Mayan guides. The full-day tour ($90 per person) included:

Boat ride through mangrove channels
Swimming in a natural lazy river canal (absolutely magical!)
Snorkeling in the reef
Wildlife spotting (we saw dolphins, sea turtles, crocodiles, and countless birds)
Lunch at a local palapa

HIGHLIGHT MOMENT: Floating down the natural canal through the mangroves was surreal. The water is so clear you can see fish swimming beneath you, and the current gently pulls you through nature’s own lazy river. I could have done this for hours!

• Punta Allen

If you want to drive into Sian Ka’an yourself, the road to Punta Allen is an adventure. It’s 56 km of rough, unpaved road that takes 2+ hours to drive. I attempted this and only made it halfway before turning back – my rental car wasn’t equipped for the deep sand and potholes.

However, if you have a 4×4 and adventurous spirit, Punta Allen is a remote fishing village at the end of the road with pristine beaches and incredible fishing tours.

USEFUL TIP: Bring insect repellent! The mosquitoes in Sian Ka’an are aggressive, especially in the mangroves. Also bring biodegradable sunscreen, snacks, and lots of water – there are no services once you enter the reserve.

Muyil Archaeological Site

On the western edge of Sian Ka’an, Muyil is a small but fascinating Mayan ruin. It’s connected to ancient trade routes through the lagoon system. The site is much less visited than Tulum, which means you can often explore in peaceful solitude.

The highlight is climbing the main temple, El Castillo, which offers panoramic views over the jungle canopy. Entry is only $4.

From Muyil, you can take a boat tour through the lagoons that connects to Sian Ka’an – a different experience than the coastal tours.

Day 5: Bacalar Lagoon – The Lake of Seven Colors

Distance covered: 235 KM from Tulum
Total drive time: 3 HRS
Overnight in: Bacalar

After days of Caribbean beaches and cenotes, it’s time to discover one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets – Bacalar Lagoon. This massive freshwater lagoon earned its nickname “Lake of Seven Colors” from the stunning gradient of blues and greens created by varying water depths and white limestone bottom.

BACALAR LAGOON

The drive from Tulum to Bacalar takes you away from the tourist crowds and deeper into authentic Mexico. As you approach Bacalar, the landscape changes – fewer hotels, more local life, and then suddenly, that incredible lagoon appears.

• Swimming at Bacalar

Unlike cenotes with their cool water, Bacalar’s lagoon is bathwater warm. The shallow areas near town are perfect for wading, while deeper sections are ideal for swimming and kayaking. I spent the afternoon floating in the crystal-clear water, watching clouds drift by – pure bliss.

MUST-DO: Visit the Cenote Azul right on the edge of Bacalar. Despite the name, it’s actually connected to the lagoon. This deep cenote (90 meters!) has a restaurant overlooking the brilliant blue water. Entry is free if you eat at the restaurant, or $3 if you just want to swim. The water transitions from pale turquoise in the shallows to deep navy blue at the center – absolutely mesmerizing.

• Kayaking and Stand-Up Paddleboarding

Several operators along the waterfront rent kayaks ($10-15 for 2 hours) and SUP boards. I rented a kayak and spent two hours exploring the lagoon’s edges, discovering hidden swimming spots and watching herons fish in the shallows. The water is so calm it’s perfect for beginners.

• Pirate’s Channel (Canal de los Piratas)

This narrow channel cuts through the lagoon and was allegedly used by pirates in the 1700s. Today, it’s lined with restaurants and bars where you can dock your kayak for fresh ceviche and cold beer. The channel’s water creates incredible photo opportunities with its deep blue color contrasting against the jungle vegetation.

• Stromatolites – Living Fossils

Bacalar is one of the few places on Earth where you can see living stromatolites – bacterial colonies that are among the oldest life forms on the planet (3.5 billion years old!). They look like dark rocks in the shallow water, but they’re actually alive and growing. Please don’t touch or step on them – they’re incredibly fragile and take decades to grow just a few centimeters.

FORT OF SAN FELIPE

In Bacalar town, the restored 18th-century Fort of San Felipe houses a small but interesting museum about pirate attacks and regional history. Entry is $4, and you get great views of the lagoon from the fort’s walls. It’s worth 30-45 minutes if you enjoy history.

Where to Stay in Bacalar?

I stayed at Casa Bakal, a charming eco-hotel right on the lagoon with its own dock and kayaks. My room had floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the water – I woke up to that incredible turquoise view every morning. The hotel serves excellent breakfast on the dock, where you can watch the sunrise paint the lagoon in pastel colors.

The owners are incredibly knowledgeable about the area and arranged my next day’s trip to Calakmul at a great rate.

Book your stay at Casa Bakal through Booking.com

Budget option: Hostel La Tortuga offers dorm beds and private rooms steps from the lagoon at backpacker prices.

BACALAR TIP: The town is very quiet – there’s no wild nightlife like Playa del Carmen. Come here to relax, disconnect, and appreciate nature’s beauty. That’s exactly what makes it special.

Day 6: Mahahual and Chetumal

Distance covered: 140 KM
Total drive time: 2 HRS 15 MIN
Overnight in: Bacalar

Before heading inland to the jungle ruins, I took a day trip to explore the southern Caribbean coast – areas that see far fewer tourists than the Riviera Maya.

MAHAHUAL

This small fishing village turned beach town is located about 1 hour southeast of Bacalar. Mahahual remains relatively undeveloped except when cruise ships dock (which happens 2-3 times per week, dumping thousands of passengers for a few hours).

CRUCIAL TIP: Check the cruise ship schedule before visiting! The town transforms from peaceful paradise to complete chaos when ships arrive. I visited on a non-cruise day and had pristine beaches almost to myself.

• Mahahual Beach

The main beach stretches for miles with soft white sand and calm, clear water. Since it faces east, sunrise here is spectacular. I walked the entire length of the beach early morning, seeing maybe 10 other people. Several small beach clubs offer loungers for $10-15 with minimum spend, but plenty of space exists for free beach access.

• Snorkeling at the Mesoamerican Reef

Mahahual sits on the second-largest coral reef system in the world. Local operators offer snorkeling trips ($30-40 for 2-3 hours) where you’ll see sea turtles, rays, colorful fish, and healthy coral formations. The reef here is less damaged than near Cancun because of lower tourist traffic.

I booked a morning trip and swam with three sea turtles! Watching these ancient creatures glide through the water was a humbling, magical experience.

• Walk the Malecón

Mahahual’s waterfront boardwalk features colorful restaurants, artisan shops, and plenty of spots to grab fresh seafood. I had the best fish tacos of my trip at a tiny place called El Pescador – grilled mahi-mahi with homemade salsa for $3. Perfect.

CHETUMAL

The capital of Quintana Roo state, Chetumal sits on the border with Belize. It’s not a tourist town – it’s a real working city where Mexicans go about their daily lives. I stopped here for a few hours to experience authentic urban Mexico away from resort areas.

• Museum of Mayan Culture

If you’re interested in Mayan history, this excellent museum ($5 entry) provides comprehensive context for the ruins you’ll be visiting. The exhibits cover everything from ancient Mayan cosmology to the Spanish conquest. I spent 90 minutes here and learned so much that enhanced my later visits to archaeological sites.

• Boulevard Bahía

The waterfront boulevard offers a pleasant walk along Chetumal Bay. Locals gather here in the evening to exercise, socialize, and enjoy the breeze. I grabbed elotes (grilled corn) from a street vendor and watched families play in the plaza as the sun set – a lovely glimpse of everyday Mexican life.

CHETUMAL TIP: The city is a major shopping destination for Belizeans crossing the border for cheaper goods. If you need supplies, groceries, or anything before heading into the jungle, stock up here.

Day 7: Calakmul Archaeological Site and Becan

Distance covered: 260 KM
Total drive time: 4 HRS 30 MIN (including jungle roads)
Overnight in: Near Calakmul or return to Bacalar

This is the most adventurous day of the itinerary – venturing deep into the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve to explore one of the most important and remote Mayan cities. This is not for everyone, but for me, it was the absolute highlight of my entire Mexico trip.

CALAKMUL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

Calakmul was one of the most powerful Mayan cities, rivaling even Tikal in Guatemala. Today, it’s buried deep in the jungle, accessible only by driving 60 km on a narrow road through pristine rainforest. This remoteness is exactly what makes it extraordinary.

• The Journey to Calakmul

From Bacalar, it’s about 3 hours to reach the entrance to Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. The last 60 km from the highway takes another 1.5 hours on a one-lane road through the jungle. The road is well-maintained but narrow – you’ll need to pull over when meeting oncoming vehicles.

THIS IS IMPORTANT: Start as early as possible (6 AM departure) to maximize wildlife spotting chances. The jungle comes alive at dawn, and you’ll see animals on or near the road.

During my drive, I saw:

Wild turkeys
A family of howler monkeys crossing the road
Ocellated turkeys (spectacular!)
Toucans
A coati (like a long-nosed raccoon)

I even spotted jaguar tracks in the mud, though sadly no jaguar sighting. The reserve has the highest concentration of jaguars in Mexico, but seeing one requires incredible luck.

Entry fees: $8 for the reserve, plus $7 for the archaeological site. Cash only!

• Exploring Calakmul Ruins

The scale of Calakmul is staggering. Over 6,000 structures have been mapped, though only a small percentage are excavated. The site is massive – you could spend an entire day exploring.

Structure II is the highlight – at 50 meters tall, it’s one of the largest Mayan pyramids ever built. The climb is steep and challenging (bring good shoes!), but the view from the summit is absolutely worth it. You stand above the jungle canopy with nothing but green in every direction for hundreds of kilometers. You can see other pyramid tops poking through the trees.

I sat at the top for 30 minutes, completely alone, listening to howler monkeys roaring in the distance. This is the Mexico I dreamed of – ancient, mysterious, and utterly magnificent.

Structure I offers another excellent climb with different perspectives of the jungle.

USEFUL TIP: Bring lots of water (at least 2 liters per person), insect repellent, sunscreen, snacks, and a hat. There are NO facilities inside the site – no food, drinks, or bathrooms once you enter. The heat and humidity are intense.

• Wildlife at Calakmul

Beyond the ruins themselves, Calakmul is a wildlife paradise. I spent 4 hours exploring and saw:

Spider monkeys swinging through trees
Multiple toucan species
Ocellated turkeys strutting around the pyramids
Coatis searching for food
Countless butterflies, including the stunning Blue Morpho

The combination of incredible ruins and abundant wildlife makes Calakmul utterly unique. This is Indiana Jones stuff – exploring ancient temples swallowed by jungle with monkeys watching from the trees.

BECAN RUINS

On the drive back toward Bacalar, I stopped at Becan – a much smaller site but fascinating in its own right. Becan is unique because it’s surrounded by a defensive moat – the only fortified Mayan city of its kind.

Entry is $5, and you can explore it in about 90 minutes. The structures are well-preserved, and you can enter several buildings to see intact Mayan vaulted ceilings. Since it’s located right off the highway, it’s much more accessible than Calakmul but receives far fewer visitors.

BECAN TIP: If you’re getting tired of driving, you can visit Becan on the way to or from Calakmul. It makes a good rest stop with bathrooms and a small snack shop.

Where to Stay Near Calakmul?

The closest accommodation is in the tiny village of Conhuas, about 20 km from the archaeological site entrance. Puerta Calakmul offers basic but comfortable rooms in a jungle setting. This is truly middle-of-nowhere Mexico – no ATMs, limited restaurants, but genuine hospitality and incredible stargazing.

I chose to drive back to Bacalar after visiting Calakmul (making it a very long day), but staying near the ruins would allow you to enter at dawn when wildlife activity peaks.

IMPORTANT NOTE: There are no gas stations between Xpujil town and Escárcega (150+ km). Fill your tank before heading to Calakmul!

Day 8: Palenque Ruins and Waterfalls

Distance covered: 350 KM from Bacalar
Total drive time: 5 HRS
Overnight in: Palenque

This is the longest driving day of the itinerary, but absolutely necessary to reach Palenque – arguably the most beautiful Mayan site in all of Mexico. The drive takes you from the Yucatan Peninsula into Chiapas state, where the landscape transforms from flat jungle to rolling hills.

PALENQUE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

If I had to choose only one Mayan site to visit in Mexico, Palenque would be it. The ruins are spectacularly preserved, the jungle setting is magical, and the history is fascinating. Unlike Chichen Itza which feels like a tourist zoo, Palenque maintains its mysterious atmosphere.

• Best Time to Visit

I arrived at opening time (8 AM) and had the place relatively to myself for the first two hours. By 11 AM, tour buses started arriving. Early morning also offers better photography light and cooler temperatures – crucial in the humid jungle climate.

Entry is $5, and parking is another $2.

• Main Temples and Structures

The Temple of Inscriptions houses the tomb of K’inich Janaab’ Pakal, one of Palenque’s most powerful rulers. You can no longer enter the tomb itself, but standing before this massive pyramid knowing a king was buried inside is awe-inspiring. The hieroglyphic inscriptions covering the temple provided crucial information about Mayan history.

The Palace is an enormous complex of courtyards, passages, and towers. You can walk through the labyrinthine interior, exploring rooms where Mayan nobility once lived. The four-story tower offers great views over the site.

Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Cross, and Temple of the Foliated Cross form a trio of beautifully preserved structures on a hillside. Climbing to these temples, you’re surrounded by jungle on all sides – howler monkeys roaring, parrots flying overhead. It feels utterly magical.

HIDDEN GEM: Follow the trail beyond Temple of the Cross into the jungle to discover lesser-visited structures including Temple XIV and Temple XV. These areas are often completely empty of tourists.

• Wildlife at Palenque

Palenque sits within a national park teeming with wildlife. During my visit, I encountered:

A troop of howler monkeys (their roar echoing through the ruins is unforgettable)
Spider monkeys
Toucans
Motmots
Coatis begging for food (don’t feed them!)

The combination of world-class ruins and jungle wildlife creates an unparalleled experience.

USEFUL TIP: Wear good walking shoes – the site is large with uneven terrain. Bring water, but you can refill at the entrance. Allow 3-4 hours minimum to explore properly.

MISOL-HA WATERFALL

About 20 km from Palenque town, Misol-Ha is a stunning 30-meter waterfall plunging into a turquoise pool surrounded by jungle. Entry is $3, and you can swim in the pool at the base of the falls.

What makes Misol-Ha special is the cave behind the waterfall – you can walk through a passage behind the cascading water! It’s slippery and wet, but absolutely worth it. The experience of standing behind a powerful waterfall with mist soaking you is incredible.

I spent 90 minutes here, swimming, photographing, and just enjoying the natural beauty. There’s a small restaurant serving traditional Chiapaneco food at the entrance.

AGUA AZUL WATERFALLS

Further from Palenque (about 60 km), Agua Azul is a series of cascading waterfalls and pools in a jungle setting. The water’s vivid turquoise color (from dissolved limestone) is breathtaking.

IMPORTANT NOTE: I visited in late November after rainy season, and the water was brown from recent rains, not the famous blue color. If you visit during or after rainy season (June-November), the waterfalls may not be blue at all. The best time for brilliant blue water is February-May during dry season.

Entry is $3. The site has multiple swimming pools at different levels – choose one and settle in for a few hours. Local vendors sell fresh coconuts and snacks throughout the area.

SAFETY WARNING: The current can be strong, and several tourists have drowned here over the years. Only swim in designated areas marked as safe, and never go near the main waterfall’s edge. The rocks are extremely slippery.

Where to Stay in Palenque?

Palenque town exists primarily to serve tourists visiting the ruins. It’s not particularly charming, but it has good infrastructure and restaurant options.

I stayed at Boutique Hotel Quinta Chanabnal, a gorgeous property surrounded by tropical gardens. The rooms feature traditional Chiapaneco design with modern amenities, and there’s a lovely pool for cooling off after a hot day exploring ruins. The hotel is located in La Cañada neighborhood, a quieter area about 10 minutes walk from the town center.

The included breakfast was fantastic – fresh tropical fruits, eggs made to order, and excellent coffee.

Book your stay at Boutique Hotel Quinta Chanabnal through Booking.com

Budget alternative: Posada Shalom offers clean, basic rooms with air conditioning at backpacker prices.

PALENQUE RESTAURANT TIP: Don’t miss Restaurante Bajlum for authentic Chiapaneco cuisine. Try the cochito horneado (roasted pork) and chipilín tamales – incredible flavors!

Day 9: San Cristobal de las Casas

Distance covered: 220 KM from Palenque
Total drive time: 4 HRS
Overnight in: San Cristobal de las Casas (3 consecutive nights)

The drive from Palenque to San Cristobal de las Casas is one of the most scenic in Mexico. You’ll climb from humid jungle lowlands into cool pine-covered mountains, watching the landscape transform completely. San Cristobal sits at 2,200 meters elevation, so bring a jacket – it actually gets cold here!

SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

This colonial mountain town stole my heart completely. San Cristobal is unlike anywhere else in Mexico – a blend of Spanish colonial architecture, indigenous Mayan culture, bohemian vibes, and revolutionary history. It’s the kind of place where you plan to stay two days and end up staying two weeks.

The city was founded in 1528 and has preserved its colonial character beautifully. Colorful buildings line cobblestone streets, church bells ring throughout the day, and indigenous women in traditional dress sell handicrafts in every plaza.

Things to Do in San Cristobal de las Casas

• Wander the Historic Center

San Cristobal is made for walking. I spent my first afternoon simply wandering the streets with no particular destination, discovering hidden courtyards, artisan workshops, and cozy cafes around every corner.

Plaza 31 de Marzo (the main square) is the heart of the city. Surrounded by colonial arcades, the cathedral, and government buildings, it’s always buzzing with activity. Indigenous vendors sell textiles, jewelry, and traditional crafts. I bought a beautiful handwoven huipil (traditional blouse) from a Tzotzil woman for $25 – she explained each symbol woven into the design represented elements from her village.

Real de Guadalupe is the main pedestrian street packed with restaurants, bars, shops, and tour operators. It gets touristy but maintains authentic character. I loved the mix of traditional Mexican cantinas and modern craft beer bars.

• Visit the Stunning Churches

Templo de Santo Domingo is San Cristobal’s most impressive church. The baroque facade is adorned with intricate carvings and gold leaf – it’s spectacular. Inside, the ornate gold altarpiece takes your breath away.

Outside the church, indigenous artisans set up a daily craft market selling textiles, amber jewelry (Chiapas is famous for amber), and traditional clothing. This is the best place in town to buy authentic handicrafts directly from the makers.

• Climb to Templo de Guadalupe

For the best panoramic views of San Cristobal, climb the 79 steps to Templo de Guadalupe on the eastern edge of town. The yellow and red church sits on a hilltop overlooking the entire city. I went for sunset and watched the colonial rooftops glow golden as the mountains turned purple in the distance. Magical.

• Explore Na Bolom Cultural Center

This museum and research center dedicated to Lacandon Jungle cultures occupies a beautiful colonial house filled with photographs, artifacts, and artwork. The Swiss anthropologist Frans Blom and his wife Gertrude lived here while studying indigenous cultures. Entry is $5, and guided tours are available.

The gardens are peaceful and perfect for reflection after absorbing so much cultural information.

• Amber Museum (Museo del Ámbar)

Chiapas produces some of the world’s finest amber, and this small museum explains everything about amber formation, mining, and the prehistoric insects often trapped inside. Entry is $3. The attached shop sells beautiful amber jewelry – I bought an amber ring with a tiny ant visible inside for $40.

• Mercado de Dulces y Artesanías

This covered market near Santo Domingo church is a feast for the senses. Traditional sweets made from pumpkin, coconut, and tamarind fill colorful displays. I tried cocada (coconut candy) and calabaza en tacha (candied pumpkin) – both delicious.

The market also sells textiles, pottery, leather goods, and traditional Chiapaneco clothing.

• Coffee Culture

San Cristobal has an excellent coffee culture – Chiapas produces world-class coffee. I spent many mornings working from Café Museo Café, which combines a coffee shop with a small museum about regional coffee production. The cortado made with locally roasted beans was perfection.

OH LA LA CAFÉ serves the best pastries in town – try the marquesitas (crispy crepes filled with cheese and Nutella).

• Food Scene

San Cristobal’s restaurant scene brilliantly blends traditional Chiapaneco cuisine with international influences.

Must-try traditional dishes:

Pozol – a fermented corn drink (acquired taste, but traditional)
Cochito – slow-roasted pork served with tortillas
Sopa de pan – bread soup with vegetables (comfort food!)
Tamales chiapanecos – wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn husks

Restaurant recommendations:

Tierra y Cielo – upscale Chiapaneco cuisine in a beautiful courtyard setting. Expensive by local standards ($25-30/person) but worth it for special dinner.
El Caldero – traditional Chiapaneco food at reasonable prices. The pozole is excellent.
TierrAdentro – farm-to-table restaurant with creative Mexican fusion. Outstanding.
Restaurante LUM – indigenous Mayan cuisine prepared with ancient techniques. Fascinating and delicious.

STREET FOOD TIP: Don’t miss the tamales vendors who appear in the evenings around Plaza 31 de Marzo. For $1-2, you get enormous, delicious tamales wrapped in banana leaves – perfect dinner on a budget.

Where to Stay in San Cristobal de las Casas?

I stayed at Casa Santa Lucia, a charming boutique hotel in a restored colonial building. The rooms surrounded a beautiful central courtyard filled with plants and colonial-style fountain. My room had traditional textiles, a fireplace (needed at night!), and modern bathroom.

The location was perfect – just 3 blocks from the main plaza on a quiet side street. The included breakfast featured regional specialties and excellent coffee.

Book your stay at Casa Santa Lucia through Booking.com

Budget alternative: Rossco Backpackers Hostel offers dorms and private rooms in a social atmosphere with rooftop terrace.

Luxury option: Guayaba Inn features beautifully decorated suites in a historic building with rooftop hot tub.

SAN CRISTOBAL TIP: The altitude (2,200m) can affect some visitors. Take it easy the first day, drink lots of water, and avoid alcohol until you’re acclimated. I felt slightly short of breath the first evening but adjusted quickly.

Day 10: San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan

Distance covered: 30 KM
Total drive time: 1 HR
Overnight in: San Cristobal de las Casas

Today involves exploring indigenous Tzotzil villages in the highlands surrounding San Cristobal. This was one of the most culturally intense and fascinating experiences of my entire trip.

SAN JUAN CHAMULA

This autonomous indigenous village maintains traditions that blend Catholicism with ancient Mayan beliefs in ways that are utterly unique and, frankly, mind-blowing.

IMPORTANT: San Juan Chamula is not a tourist attraction – it’s a living community with sacred traditions. Visitors are tolerated but must show absolute respect. Photography is STRICTLY PROHIBITED inside the church, and violators risk having cameras destroyed by locals. Outside photography of people requires permission.

• The Church of San Juan Bautista

Nothing prepares you for entering this church. The interior is unlike any church I’ve ever seen:

The floor is covered entirely with pine needles and candles
There are no pews – people kneel directly on the floor
Hundreds of candles burn everywhere, creating flickering shadows
The air is thick with incense (copal) and smoke
Traditional healers (curanderos) perform healing ceremonies, chanting in Tzotzil while clients kneel surrounded by candles
Chicken sacrifices sometimes occur as part of healing rituals
Coca-Cola bottles appear in ceremonies (locals believe burping releases evil spirits)

I spent 45 minutes inside, sitting quietly and observing. The atmosphere is powerful, mystical, and deeply spiritual. This isn’t Catholicism as Rome would recognize it – it’s syncretic religion where Mayan cosmology merged with Spanish Christianity, creating something entirely unique.

RESPECTFUL BEHAVIOR:

Speak in whispers or remain silent
Never point at people or ceremonies
Don’t walk between people and their candles
Dress modestly
Don’t bring cameras inside (seriously, don’t risk it)

Entry is $2, and there’s a small museum explaining local traditions.

• The Cemetery

The colorful cemetery at San Juan Chamula is equally fascinating. Graves are painted in bright colors (turquoise, yellow, pink), with crosses in different colors indicating how the person died. The cemetery continues Mayan traditions of ancestor veneration.

ZINACANTAN

This nearby Tzotzil village is famous for flower cultivation and textile weaving. The atmosphere is more welcoming to tourists than Chamula.

• Church of San Lorenzo

Zinacantan’s church also combines Catholic and Mayan elements, though less dramatically than Chamula. Inside, you’ll see traditional decorations and locals praying in Tzotzil. Photography is prohibited inside but permitted outside.

• Textile Workshops

Several families in Zinacantan open their homes to demonstrate traditional backstrap loom weaving. I visited the home of a Tzotzil family who explained the symbolism in their woven designs – each pattern tells stories or represents natural elements.

The textiles are spectacular and expensive (reflecting the hours of handwork). A large woven piece might cost $200-500, but watching the creation process makes you understand the value. I bought a small woven wall hanging for $35.

The family also served traditional foods – handmade tortillas, black beans, and local cheese. This intimate cultural exchange was incredibly meaningful.

TOUR RECOMMENDATION: While you can visit independently, I recommend booking a guide in San Cristobal who can provide cultural context and translation. I used Alex and Raul Tours ($25/person for 5-hour tour including transport and guide). Having a Tzotzil-speaking guide made the experience infinitely richer.

IMPORTANT CULTURAL NOTE: These are not living museums – they’re real communities maintaining traditions despite modernization pressures. Treat visits with the same respect you’d show entering any sacred space.

Day 11: Sumidero Canyon – Tuxtla Gutierrez – Drive to Oaxaca

Distance covered: 450 KM
Total drive time: 7 HRS (full day driving)
Overnight in: Oaxaca City

This is another long driving day, but I broke it up with a spectacular boat tour through Sumidero Canyon – one of Mexico’s most dramatic natural wonders.

SUMIDERO CANYON

Sumidero Canyon is a massive gorge carved by the Grijalva River, with vertical walls soaring up to 1,000 meters high. The canyon stretches for 32 km and is now part of a national park.

• Boat Tour Through the Canyon

Boat tours depart from Chiapa de Corzo, a colonial town about 15 km from Tuxtla Gutierrez (Chiapas state capital). Tours last 2 hours and cost $12-15 per person.

The boat ride is absolutely spectacular. You cruise between towering canyon walls, spotting wildlife and marveling at geological formations:

Wildlife I saw:

Spider monkeys climbing cliff faces
Crocodiles sunbathing on rocks (some massive!)
Dozens of bird species including vultures riding thermals
Howler monkeys (heard more than seen)

Highlights:

Christmas Tree waterfall – a seasonal waterfall with calcium deposits creating a tree-shaped formation
Cave formations in the canyon walls
El Chiflón waterfall – cascading down the cliff face
The canyon narrows – where walls close in creating dramatic perspectives

The boats are covered to protect from sun, and life jackets are provided. Bring water, sunscreen, and camera with zoom lens for wildlife photography.

TIMING TIP: Tours run throughout the day, but morning offers best lighting and cooler temperatures. I took the 9 AM tour and it was perfect.

CHIAPA DE CORZO

After the boat tour, spend an hour exploring this charming colonial town. The main plaza features a unique Moorish-style fountain called La Pila, built in 1562. The town is known for lacquerware crafts – beautiful bowls and decorative items painted with intricate designs.

I had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river – try the cochito horneado (roasted pork) and chipilín tamales, both Chiapaneco specialties.

THE DRIVE TO OAXACA

From Chiapa de Corzo, it’s about 6.5 hours to Oaxaca City. The drive takes you through dramatic mountain scenery – winding roads, pine forests, and valleys dotted with small villages.

DRIVING TIPS:

This route has many curves and slow sections – don’t expect highway speeds
Fill your tank before leaving – gas stations are sparse
Take breaks in small towns along the way
The final descent into Oaxaca Valley offers spectacular views

I stopped in Tehuantepec for coffee and leg-stretching. This isthmus region has unique indigenous culture – women wear traditional tehuana dress, and the region is famously matriarchal.

ALTERNATIVE: If this drive seems too long, consider flying from Tuxtla Gutierrez to Oaxaca (1 hour, $80-120) and returning your rental car. You can rent another car in Oaxaca if needed.

Day 12: Oaxaca City

Distance covered: 0 KM (exploring the city)
Overnight in: Oaxaca City

After intense days of driving and ruins, Oaxaca City offers the perfect conclusion to your Mexico adventure. This UNESCO World Heritage colonial city is Mexico’s culinary capital, artistic hub, and cultural treasure. Oaxaca became my favorite Mexican city – nowhere else combines history, culture, food, and beauty so perfectly.

OAXACA CITY CENTRO HISTORICO

The historic center is a masterpiece of Spanish colonial architecture painted in green volcanic stone. Walking these streets feels like stepping back in time.

• Zócalo (Main Plaza)

Oaxaca’s central plaza might be the most beautiful in Mexico. Massive laurel trees provide shade over stone benches where locals gather day and night. The plaza is surrounded by arcaded colonial buildings, restaurants, and shops. A bandstand hosts live music several evenings per week.

I spent multiple evenings here, watching Oaxacan families stroll, balloon vendors work the crowd, and street performers entertain. The atmosphere is magical – quintessentially Mexican.

• Santo Domingo Church and Cultural Center

This is Oaxaca’s crown jewel. The Santo Domingo church interior is one of the most elaborately decorated in Mexico – every surface is covered in gold leaf baroque ornamentation. The ceiling features a genealogical tree tracing Jesus’s ancestry, crafted in stunning detail.

Entry to the church is free, though donations are appreciated.

The adjoining Cultural Center occupies a former Dominican monastery and houses museums covering Oaxacan history, indigenous cultures, and archaeology. The highlight is the treasure from Monte Alban’s Tomb 7 – jade, gold, and precious artifacts from Mixtec civilization. Entry is $6.

Don’t miss the ethnobotanical garden behind the complex – it showcases Oaxaca’s incredible plant diversity. Guided tours are required ($5) and worth it.

• Mercado Benito Juarez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre

These adjacent markets are the beating heart of Oaxaca. Here you’ll find everything:

Mercado Benito Juarez sells crafts, leather goods, textiles, chocolate, mezcal, and ingredients. I bought Oaxacan chocolate ($3/kg), dried chapulines (grasshoppers), and beautiful pottery.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the food market. The entire second floor is filled with restaurants serving traditional Oaxacan food at incredible prices ($4-6 for a full meal). Wander through and choose based on what looks delicious – you can’t go wrong.

MUST TRY: The “pasillo de humo” (smoke passage) where they grill fresh meats over open charcoal fires. Point at what you want, they grill it fresh, and serve with tortillas, guacamole, and salsa. Smoky, delicious, authentic.

• Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman

Beyond the famous Santo Domingo, Oaxaca has 20+ colonial-era churches worth exploring. I particularly loved Iglesia de la Compañia and Basilica de la Soledad (patron saint of Oaxaca).

• Street Art and Galleries

Oaxaca has an incredible art scene. Wander streets like Alcalá (the main pedestrian street) to discover galleries showing contemporary Oaxacan artists. Much of the work reflects indigenous themes, political commentary, or magical realism.

Street art adorns walls throughout the city – particularly around Jalatlaco neighborhood, a bohemian area with colorful houses and hip cafes.

• Hierve el Agua Day Trip

I’m including this here though it’s outside the city (90 minutes drive). Hierve el Agua is a set of natural rock formations that look like frozen waterfalls. Mineral-rich water has deposited calcium carbonate over thousands of years, creating white “petrified waterfalls” cascading down the mountainside.

You can swim in natural infinity pools at the cliff’s edge – the views over Oaxaca Valley are breathtaking. Entry is $2.

The drive there passes through beautiful countryside and traditional villages. I stopped at a mezcal palenque (distillery) along the way for a tasting – traditional mezcal production is fascinating.

TOUR OPTION: If you don’t want to drive, book a tour from Oaxaca City ($30-40/person including transport, guide, and stops at a weaving village and mezcal distillery). Available through GetYourGuide.

OAXACAN FOOD – THE HIGHLIGHT

Oaxaca is called “Land of Seven Moles” and “Mexico’s Culinary Capital” for good reason. The food here is extraordinary.

Must-try Oaxacan dishes:

• Mole Negro – the most complex Oaxacan mole with 30+ ingredients including chocolate, chiles, and spices. It takes days to prepare properly. Rich, complex, incredible.

• Tlayudas – massive crispy tortillas topped with beans, cheese, meat, avocado, and salsa. Oaxaca’s answer to pizza.

• Chapulines – roasted grasshoppers seasoned with garlic, lime, and chile. Crunchy, salty, and surprisingly addictive. I was skeptical but now I’m a convert!

• Tasajo – thin-cut beef dried and grilled, served with beans and salsa.

• Quesillo – Oaxacan string cheese. Stretchy, mild, and used in countless dishes.

• Tejate – traditional drink made from cacao, corn, and mamey seeds. Ancient pre-Hispanic beverage.

• Mezcal – Oaxaca is the heartland of mezcal production. Try different varieties – each tastes completely different depending on the agave species.

Restaurant Recommendations:

• Los Danzantes – Upscale restaurant with creative takes on traditional Oaxacan cuisine. The mole tasting plate is essential. $30-40/person.

• Casa Oaxaca – Chef Alejandro Ruiz’s restaurant showcasing elevated Oaxacan flavors. Absolutely phenomenal. $40-50/person.

• La Biznaga – Mid-range restaurant with excellent traditional food and beautiful courtyard setting. The tlayudas are perfection. $15-20/person.

• Mercado 20 de Noviembre – For the most authentic, affordable experience. $5-8/meal.

• El Destilado – Innovative contemporary Mexican cuisine with mezcal pairings. Tasting menu $60/person – worth every peso.

FOOD TIP: Take a Oaxacan cooking class! I did a 5-hour class ($65) where we visited the market with a chef, bought ingredients, and learned to make mole, tlayudas, and fresh tortillas. It was one of my favorite experiences in Oaxaca. Book through Casa Crespo or Seasons of My Heart.

Where to Stay in Oaxaca?

I stayed at Hotel Casa Oaxaca, a boutique hotel in a restored colonial mansion. The rooftop terrace with views over the city, the beautifully decorated rooms with Oaxacan textiles, the fantastic breakfast, and the attentive staff made it the best accommodation of my entire trip.

The location is perfect – 3 blocks from Santo Domingo, 5 blocks from the Zócalo.

Book your stay at Hotel Casa Oaxaca through Booking.com

Budget option: Hostal Pochon offers private rooms and dorms in a colonial building with social atmosphere.

Mid-range: Quinta Real Oaxaca occupies a converted 16th-century convent – stunning architecture.

Day 13: Monte Alban Archaeological Site

Distance covered: 20 KM
Total drive time: 30 MIN
Overnight in: Oaxaca City

MONTE ALBAN sits on a mountaintop overlooking Oaxaca Valley. This ancient Zapotec city was one of Mesoamerica’s most important centers, inhabited from 500 BCE to 800 CE.

• Exploring Monte Alban

The setting alone makes Monte Alban spectacular – the entire mountaintop was artificially flattened to create the ceremonial center. Standing in the Grand Plaza surrounded by temples and palaces, with 360-degree views over the valley, you feel the power this place once held.

Entry is $7. I recommend arriving at opening time (8 AM) to beat the heat and crowds.

Highlights:

• The Grand Plaza – massive open space surrounded by platforms, temples, and ball courts

• South Platform – climb for panoramic views over the entire site

• Ball Court – well-preserved ancient ball court where ritual games were played

• Building J – arrow-shaped building aligned to astronomical observations

• Tomb 7 – where the incredible treasures now in Santo Domingo museum were discovered

Allow 2-3 hours to explore properly. The site is large and involves lots of walking and climbing. Bring water, hat, and sunscreen.

MONTE ALBAN TIP: Hire a guide at the entrance ($25-30) to understand the significance of what you’re seeing. The site is impressive visually but the history makes it fascinating.

Afternoon: Teotitlan del Valle

On the way back from Monte Alban, I stopped in Teotitlan del Valle, a village famous for wool weaving. Families here have practiced traditional weaving techniques for generations, creating spectacular rugs and tapestries.

I visited a family workshop where they demonstrated the entire process – shearing sheep, spinning wool, natural dyeing (using cochineal insects for red, indigo for blue), and weaving on traditional looms.

The textiles are museum-quality and priced accordingly – a large rug might cost $500-2000. But watching the creation process and meeting the artisans made me appreciate the craftsmanship. I bought a small woven piece ($60) directly from the weaver.

Day 14: Final Day in Oaxaca – Markets, Mezcal, and Memories

Distance covered: 0 KM
Overnight: Return flight or continue your journey

For my final day, I took it slow – no rushing, just savoring Oaxaca.

Morning: I returned to Mercado de Abastos (the huge local market on the outskirts) to buy last-minute gifts – chocolate, mezcal, textiles, and pottery. This market is where Oaxacans actually shop, and it’s enormous, chaotic, and wonderful.

Late Morning: I did a mezcal tasting at In Situ Mezcaleria, a bar specializing in artisanal mezcal from small producers. The staff explained the differences between mezcal types, production methods, and tasting notes. I learned more in 90 minutes than I thought possible about this complex spirit. Tasting flight $15.

Lunch: Final meal at Mercado 20 de Noviembre – I had to have tlayudas and mole negro one more time.

Afternoon: I wandered Jalatlaco neighborhood, photographing colorful houses, stopping in artisan shops, and having coffee at a tiny café called Central Jalatlaco.

Evening: For my final dinner, I splurged at Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante – the tasting menu with mezcal pairings ($80/person). Every dish was a masterpiece celebrating Oaxacan ingredients and traditions. The perfect conclusion to an incredible journey.

After dinner, I sat in the Zócalo one last time, watching families stroll, listening to a brass band play, and feeling genuinely sad to leave. Oaxaca had worked its magic completely.

What I Skipped and What I Would Suggest Skipping

• Cancun Hotel Zone – Unless you’re specifically seeking all-inclusive resort experience, skip it entirely. The real Mexico lies beyond the resort bubble.

• Chichen Itza – Controversial opinion, but Chichen Itza is overcrowded and overpriced. You can’t even climb the pyramid anymore. Calakmul and Palenque offer much better experiences. If you must see Chichen Itza, book a sunrise tour before crowds arrive.

• Xcaret/Xel-Ha Parks – These commercialized “eco-parks” feel more like theme parks than nature experiences. You can see authentic cenotes and wildlife elsewhere for fraction of the price.

• Isla Mujeres – It’s pleasant but not essential. If you have limited time, prioritize other destinations.

Final Thoughts on This Mexico Itinerary

This two-week journey through southern Mexico exceeded every expectation. From Caribbean beaches to ancient ruins swallowed by jungle, from colonial cities to indigenous villages maintaining thousand-year-old traditions, from world-class cuisine to warm hospitality – Mexico revealed itself as infinitely more complex, beautiful, and welcoming than I imagined.

The itinerary is ambitious but doable. Yes, there are long driving days, but the freedom of having your own vehicle made it worthwhile. Being able to stop at roadside taco stands, detour to hidden cenotes, and arrive at archaeological sites before tour buses was invaluable.

My Personal Highlights:

Floating in Bacalar’s seven-colored lagoon at sunset
Standing atop Calakmul pyramid surrounded by endless jungle
Witnessing ceremonies in San Juan Chamula church
Learning to make mole in Oaxaca cooking class
Swimming in cenotes throughout the Yucatan

What I’d Do Differently:

Spend extra day in San Cristobal de las Casas
Visit Hierve el Agua earlier in the morning
Allow more time for spontaneous discoveries
Learn more Spanish before the trip

More Mexico Travel Guides

I’ll be adding these guides soon:

Complete Guide to Cenotes in the Yucatan
Best Mayan Ruins in Mexico: Beyond Chichen Itza
Oaxaca Food Guide: What to Eat and Where
Driving in Mexico: Everything You Need to Know
Budget Breakdown: Two Weeks in Mexico

Mexico Travel Resources

Planning your trip to Mexico soon? Below are useful links to travel booking resources that I personally use:

Find the BEST FLIGHTS to Mexico using Skyscanner or Google Flights – compare prices across airlines for best deals.
Rent your car at THE BEST RATE with Discover Cars – compare rates between all major rental companies. Always book full insurance for Mexico!
Find your PERFECT ACCOMMODATION on Booking.com (best for hotels) or Airbnb (great for local experiences and apartments).
Get TRAVEL INSURANCE – essential for Mexico travel. I use SafetyWing for long-term coverage or Heymondo for shorter trips.
Book GUIDED TOURS through GetYourGuide or Viator – both offer excellent tours with verified reviews.
LEARN SPANISH – Even basic Spanish dramatically improves your Mexico experience. Try Duolingo or take classes before your trip.

Practical Mexico Travel Tips

Safety: Mexico gets unfair reputation in media. The tourist areas in this itinerary are safe if you use common sense – don’t flash expensive items, avoid isolated areas at night, and stay aware of surroundings. I felt completely safe throughout my trip.

Money: Bring both credit cards and cash. Many small businesses, markets, and archaeological sites only accept cash (pesos). ATMs are widely available in cities. Always decline dynamic currency conversion – choose to be charged in pesos for better exchange rates.

Language: Learning basic Spanish makes huge difference. Download Google Translate offline and learn phrases like: “¿Cuánto cuesta?” (How much?), “Gracias” (Thank you), “¿Dónde está…?” (Where is…?).

Phone/Internet: Buy a Mexican SIM card at airport (Telcel is most reliable carrier). I paid $30 for 30 days unlimited data – essential for navigation.

Tipping: Standard 10-15% at restaurants. Tip gas station attendants 5-10 pesos for full service.

Packing: Layers! You’ll experience beach heat and mountain cold. Bring: light clothes, one warm layer, rain jacket, comfortable walking shoes, swimsuit, biodegradable sunscreen, insect repellent, and reusable water bottle.

I hope you found this Mexico itinerary useful and inspiring! Mexico is a country that rewards curious, respectful travelers with unforgettable experiences. From the moment you arrive until you reluctantly depart, you’ll be discovering new flavors, meeting warm people, and creating memories that last a lifetime.

¡Buen viaje! (Safe travels!)

Have questions about this itinerary? Planning your own Mexico adventure? Leave a comment below and I’ll help however I can!

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