Panama Road Trip: The Ultimate One-Week Travel Itinerary Through Central America’s Hidden Gem!
Panama is an incredible destination for a Central American road trip adventure. This detailed one-week Panama road trip itinerary covers the best places in the country that you can visit in 7-10 days.
Panama is a compact country packed with incredible diversity! Scenic highways wind through cloud forests, pristine Caribbean beaches, historic colonial towns, modern cityscapes, and lush rainforests teeming with wildlife. Therefore, embarking on a Panama road trip is by far the best way to explore this biodiverse bridge between two continents.
With your own wheels, you will be able to explore the best places in Panama conveniently. Although some sights in Panama can be reached by public transport or organized tours, many of the most spectacular locations are only accessible by car.
Based on my experience exploring this wonderful country, I put together this comprehensive one-week Panama road trip itinerary covering the Pacific coast, mountain highlands, Caribbean beaches, and the famous Panama Canal. It also indicates distances traveled, provides an interactive map, and suggests the best places to stay in Panama.
Car rental tip 1: Discover Cars is an excellent choice for finding the best car rental deals in Panama. This search engine compares rates between different rental companies and can help you save up to 70% on your rental. It also offers reasonably priced full coverage insurance options.
Car rental tip 2: Rentalcars.com is another reliable platform I frequently use for car rentals in Central America. They work with reputable local and international providers at competitive rates.
Stay: I booked all my accommodation in Panama on Booking.com and Airbnb.
Travel Insurance: Purchase reliable travel insurance at Heymondo or SafetyWing (this one is the cheapest on the market and perfect for digital nomads).
Check the best outdoor & adventure tours in Panama on Viator.
Check the best guided tours on GetYourGuide.
Summary of My Panama Road Trip Route
- Day 1: Panama City – Casco Viejo and Panama Canal
- Day 2: Panama City to El Valle de Antón via Soberanía National Park
- Day 3: El Valle de Antón – Waterfalls and Cloud Forest Exploration
- Day 4: El Valle to Boquete via Santa Catalina detour (or direct route)
- Day 5: Boquete – Coffee Plantations and Volcán Barú
- Day 6: Boquete to Bocas del Toro
- Day 7: Bocas del Toro – Island Hopping and Beach Relaxation
If I had 5 Days in Panama, my itinerary would include Panama City – Panama Canal – El Valle de Antón – Boquete – quick flight to Bocas del Toro.
If I had 10 Days in Panama, my itinerary would include Panama City – Soberanía National Park – El Valle de Antón – Santa Catalina – Boquete – Volcán Barú hike – Bocas del Toro (2-3 days) – return via Caribbean coast with stops at indigenous communities.
Panama Road Trip Planning Tips

Renting a Car in Panama
Major car rental companies operate from Tocumen International Airport in Panama City. However, I strongly suggest checking either Discover Cars or Rentalcars.com. These car search websites usually offer lower rates compared to booking directly with rental companies. Many travelers opt for a 4×4 vehicle, especially if planning to visit more remote areas or drive during the rainy season.
Important note: Some car rental companies in Panama do not allow you to take vehicles across certain borders or to specific remote areas. Always check the terms and conditions before booking.
Driving in Panama
Driving is an excellent way to explore beautiful Panama. Having your own vehicle allows you to access every highlight and the most remote places in the country easily. You’ll be able to stick to your own schedule and make spontaneous stops whenever something catches your eye.
Panama is relatively small, so distances between major attractions are manageable. The Pan-American Highway (Carretera Panamericana) is the main artery connecting most destinations and is generally in good condition. However, once you venture into mountain areas or coastal regions, roads can become narrower and windier.
Driving conditions vary significantly:
- Major highways are well-maintained and modern
- Mountain roads can be steep with sharp curves
- Some rural roads may be unpaved, especially during rainy season (May-November)
- Speed bumps (policías acostados) are common in towns and villages
- GPS is essential as signage can be minimal in rural areas
Safety tips:
- Avoid driving at night in rural areas due to poor lighting and potential obstacles
- Watch for livestock on country roads
- Keep doors locked in Panama City
- Always have your driver’s license, passport, and rental agreement with you
- Fill up on gas before heading to remote areas
Where to Stay During the Panama Road Trip
On every trip, including this road trip in Panama, I try to find a mix of locally-owned hotels, eco-lodges, and vacation rentals rather than chain hotels. This way, I get authentic experiences, support local businesses, and usually enjoy better value for money.
When looking for accommodation in Panama with a rental car, parking availability is crucial, especially in Panama City and Bocas del Toro. Each place I booked had either private parking or secure street parking available.
Accommodation booking: I always book through Booking.com and Airbnb. These platforms provide excellent variety for any budget. As a returning Booking.com customer, you get Genius discounts (10-30%) and special mobile-only prices through their app.
Tip: Always check the cancellation policy and choose accommodation with flexible terms when possible. I typically book places that I can cancel close to my trip dates in case plans change.
Here’s a Quick Summary of Where I Stayed:
- Panama City – Boutique hotel in Casco Viejo (2 nights)
- El Valle de Antón – Mountain cabin rental (2 nights)
- Boquete – Coffee estate lodge (2 nights)
- Bocas del Toro – Overwater bungalow (2 nights)
I booked all my Panama accommodation through Booking.com and Airbnb. You can find more detailed comments on each place later in this post or read reviews on the respective booking platforms.
What to Expect in Panama?
In Panama, you’ll discover the perfect blend of modern and historic, nature and culture. Marvel at the engineering wonder of the Panama Canal, wander the cobblestone streets of Casco Viejo’s colonial architecture, and sip world-class coffee in the cool mountain highlands of Boquete. You’ll trek through pristine cloud forests teeming with exotic birds, relax on idyllic Caribbean beaches with crystal-clear waters, and witness incredible biodiversity in rainforests that are home to sloths, monkeys, and colorful frogs.
The country offers world-class surfing on the Pacific coast, snorkeling in turquoise Caribbean waters, indigenous cultural experiences with the Emberá people, and sunset views from rooftop bars overlooking the modern Panama City skyline. All this diversity packed into one compact country makes Panama an extraordinary road trip destination.
How Many Days Do You Need in Panama?
Based on my experience, one week in Panama is the perfect amount of time to see the country’s main highlights without feeling rushed. You can cover Panama City, the mountain highlands, and either the Pacific or Caribbean coast comfortably.
For a more comprehensive experience, 10 days to 2 weeks would allow you to explore both coasts, spend more time hiking, visit additional national parks, and perhaps include a San Blas Islands excursion.
In this post, I highlight the absolute must-see places in Panama for those with limited time. I also mention places worth skipping if you’re on a tight schedule.
Note: This itinerary assumes you’re flying in and out of Panama City (Tocumen International Airport). However, it can easily be adjusted if you’re arriving from Costa Rica by land or planning a multi-country Central American adventure.
When to Visit Panama?
Panama has two seasons: dry season (December-April) and rainy season (May-November).
The best time to visit Panama is during the dry season (mid-December through April), particularly January through March. During these months, you’ll enjoy sunny days, minimal rainfall, and perfect conditions for outdoor activities. However, this is also peak tourist season, meaning higher prices and more crowds, especially during holidays.
The shoulder months of December and April offer a sweet spot with good weather and fewer tourists. Prices are slightly lower, and attractions are less crowded.
Rainy season (May-November) shouldn’t be completely dismissed. Mornings are often sunny, with afternoon showers. This is the best time for:
- Significant savings on accommodation (up to 50% off)
- Fewer tourists at popular attractions
- Lush, green landscapes
- Better wildlife viewing (especially birds)
- Surfing on the Pacific coast (consistent swells)
However, avoid October and early November when rainfall is heaviest, and some roads may become impassable.
Budget for Your Road Trip in Panama
Panama is more expensive than its Central American neighbors but still offers good value, especially outside Panama City. It uses the US Dollar, making budgeting easy for American travelers (no currency exchange needed!).
Rough breakdown of expected costs:
- Accommodation: $40-$80/night for a nice hotel or vacation rental (double occupancy)
- Dine out: $25-$50/day depending on where you eat (local fondas are much cheaper than tourist restaurants)
- Car Rental: $30-$60/day for a standard car booked in advance (4×4 vehicles cost $50-$100/day)
- Fuel: $3.50-$4.00/gallon (gasoline is relatively expensive in Panama)
- Activities: $10-$50 per person for most tours and entrance fees
- Panama Canal: $15-$17.22 entrance fee to Miraflores Visitor Center
Daily budget estimates:
- Budget traveler: $60-$80/day per person (hostels, street food, free activities)
- Mid-range traveler: $100-$150/day per person (comfortable hotels, mix of restaurants, paid activities)
- Luxury traveler: $200+/day per person (high-end lodges, fine dining, private tours)
Panama One-Week Road Trip Itinerary Day by Day
For those wanting a complete overview of what Panama has to offer, here’s my day-by-day breakdown of the route I took during my one-week road trip through this incredible country.
Day 1: Panama City – Casco Viejo and Panama Canal

Distance covered: 35 KM
Total drive time: 1 HR (with traffic)
Overnight in: Panama City (Casco Viejo area)
If you’ve just landed at Tocumen International Airport, the best way to start your Panama adventure is heading directly to your accommodation in or near Casco Viejo. After checking in and freshening up, you’ll spend your first day exploring Panama City’s historic heart and witnessing one of the world’s greatest engineering marvels.
CASCO VIEJO (CASCO ANTIGUO)
Casco Viejo, Panama City’s charming historic quarter, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that beautifully blends colonial Spanish architecture with modern restoration. Founded in 1673 after the original Panama City (Panama Viejo) was destroyed by pirates, this compact neighborhood sits on a small peninsula overlooking the Pacific Ocean and the modern skyline.
The transformation of Casco Viejo has been remarkable. What was once a neglected, dangerous area is now Panama City’s trendiest neighborhood, filled with boutique hotels, rooftop bars, artisan shops, and excellent restaurants. However, it still retains its authentic character with local residents, street vendors, and unrestored buildings standing alongside gleaming renovations.
Things to Do in Casco Viejo
Wander the cobblestone streets and admire the architecture
Getting lost in Casco Viejo’s grid of narrow streets is part of the charm. The neighborhood showcases various architectural styles from Spanish colonial to French and Antillean influences. Look up to see beautiful balconies adorned with flowers and intricate ironwork.
USEFUL TIP: Visit early morning (around 7-8 AM) to experience Casco Viejo waking up. You’ll see locals heading to work, shop owners opening their businesses, and street cleaners washing the plazas. The soft morning light is perfect for photography, and you’ll have popular spots virtually to yourself before tour groups arrive around 10 AM.
Visit Plaza de la Independencia (Plaza Mayor)
The heart of Casco Viejo, this plaza is where Panama declared independence from Spain in 1821 and from Colombia in 1903. The stunning Metropolitan Cathedral dominates the square with its white façade and twin bell towers. The plaza is surrounded by important colonial buildings and is a great spot for people-watching.
Explore the churches and landmarks
- Metropolitan Cathedral – Free to enter, beautiful interior with pearl altar
- San José Church – Home to the famous Golden Altar, the only treasure that survived Henry Morgan’s pirate attack on the original Panama City
- San Francisco de Asís Church – One of the oldest and most photographed churches in Casco Viejo
- Teatro Nacional – If you have time, catch a performance or take a guided tour of this beautiful early 20th-century theater
Walk along the seawall (Las Bóvedas)
The fortified seawall offers spectacular views of the modern Panama City skyline, the Bridge of the Americas, and the Pacific Ocean. At sunset, this becomes one of the most romantic spots in the city. The arched walkway beneath (Las Bóvedas) was once used as a military barracks and prison but now houses a small artisan market and a French restaurant.
Visit rooftop bars for sunset
Casco Viejo has some of the best rooftop bars in Central America. My favorites include:
- Tantalo Hotel Rooftop – Trendy spot with 360-degree views
- Casa Casco Rooftop – More intimate setting with creative cocktails
- Gaudí Rooftop Lounge – Named after the famous architect, with eclectic décor
USEFUL TIP: Rooftop bars can fill up quickly during sunset (5:30-7 PM). Arrive 30 minutes before sunset to secure the best spots. Happy hour deals (usually 5-7 PM) can save you money on drinks.
Sample Panamanian cuisine
Try traditional dishes like:
- Sancocho – hearty chicken soup with yuca and cilantro
- Ropa Vieja – shredded beef in tomato sauce
- Patacones – fried green plantains (addictive!)
- Ceviche – fresh seafood “cooked” in lime juice
- Raspao – shaved ice with fruit syrup and condensed milk (perfect for the heat!)
For authentic local food at reasonable prices, head to Fonda Lo Que Hay or Café Coca Cola (a historic diner outside Casco Viejo). For upscale dining, try Donde José (requires advance reservation) or Maito.
PANAMA CANAL
No trip to Panama is complete without witnessing the Panama Canal in action. This 82-kilometer waterway connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans is one of humanity’s greatest engineering achievements. Watching massive ships navigate the locks is absolutely mesmerizing.
Visit Miraflores Locks Visitor Center
The Miraflores Locks, located just 15 minutes from downtown Panama City, offer the best viewing experience. The visitor center features:
- Observation decks – Watch ships transit through the locks from multiple viewing platforms
- Museum – Learn about the canal’s construction history, including the French attempt and eventual American success
- IMAX theater – Documentary film about the canal (shown throughout the day)
- Restaurant – Dine while watching ships pass (book ahead for window seats)
Entrance fee: $17.22 for adults (foreigners), less for Panamanian residents
USEFUL TIP: Check the ship schedule online before visiting (https://micanaldepanama.com/itinerario-de-transitos/) to time your visit with actual ship transits. The busiest times are usually early morning (8-10 AM) and late afternoon (3-5 PM). Larger vessels (Panamax and Neo-Panamax ships) are more impressive to watch than smaller boats.
I arrived around 3 PM and witnessed two massive container ships making their way through the locks. The process took about 90 minutes per ship. It’s incredible to see these enormous vessels being raised and lowered using only water and gravity!
Alternative Canal viewing options:
- Agua Clara Locks (Atlantic side) – Newer locks, less touristy, free viewing area (2.5 hours from Panama City)
- Panama Canal Railway – Take a scenic train ride alongside the canal from Panama City to Colón ($25 one-way)
- Partial transit tour – Join a boat tour that transits through one set of locks (book in advance, around $150-$200)
Where to Stay in Panama City?
I highly recommend staying in or near Casco Viejo for easy walking access to restaurants, bars, and attractions. The neighborhood is safe, atmospheric, and the best base for exploring Panama City.
I stayed at a boutique hotel called Las Clementinas, a beautifully restored colonial building with modern amenities. The rooftop terrace offers stunning skyline views, and the staff provided excellent local recommendations.
Budget option: Luna’s Castle Hostel – Great for backpackers and solo travelers
Mid-range: The Canal House or Magnolia Inn
Luxury: American Trade Hotel or Central Hotel Panama
Alternative areas to stay:
- Marbella/Bella Vista – Modern high-rise district, close to nightlife and restaurants (need a car or Uber)
- Near the airport – Only if you have an early flight; the area lacks character
Parking tip: If staying in Casco Viejo, confirm your hotel has parking or a deal with a nearby garage. Street parking is limited and not recommended overnight. Most hotels charge $10-$20/night for parking.
Safety note: While Casco Viejo has improved dramatically, remain aware of your surroundings, especially at night. Stick to well-lit main streets, don’t flash expensive jewelry or cameras, and use Uber rather than street taxis. The neighborhood borders less developed areas, so avoid wandering into surrounding streets beyond the tourist zone.
Day 2: Panama City to El Valle de Antón via Soberanía National Park

Distance covered: 135 KM
Total drive time: 2 HRS 30 MIN (without stops)
Overnight in: El Valle de Antón
After experiencing the urban energy of Panama City, it’s time to head into nature. Today’s journey takes you west along the Pan-American Highway, with an optional stop at Soberanía National Park, before reaching the mountain town of El Valle de Antón.
SOBERANÍA NATIONAL PARK
Located just 25 kilometers from Panama City, Soberanía National Park is one of the most accessible rainforests in Central America. This 22,000-hectare protected area is home to incredible biodiversity – over 525 bird species, 105 mammal species, and countless reptiles and amphibians.
Pipeline Road (Camino del Oleoducto)
Pipeline Road is considered one of the best birdwatching sites in the world. This 17-kilometer trail follows an old oil pipeline route through pristine rainforest. Even non-birders will be amazed by the sounds and sights of the jungle.
I arrived at Pipeline Road around 6:30 AM when the forest was just waking up. The cacophony of bird calls, howler monkeys, and insects was overwhelming in the best way possible. Within the first 30 minutes, I spotted toucans, parrots, and a troop of capuchin monkeys crossing the trail above me.
USEFUL TIP: Early morning (6-9 AM) is absolutely the best time to visit. The wildlife is most active, temperatures are cooler, and you might have the trail almost to yourself. Bring binoculars, insect repellent, water, and wear long sleeves/pants. The trail can be muddy, so waterproof hiking boots are recommended.
You don’t need to hike the entire 17 km. Even walking 2-3 kilometers in and back (1-2 hours total) will give you an excellent rainforest experience.
How to get there: From Panama City, take the Pan-American Highway toward Colón. Look for the sign for “Camino del Oleoducto” or “Plantation Road” on your left (about 25-30 minutes from the city). The entrance is easy to miss, so keep your GPS handy. Parking is free and safe.
Guided tours: If you want to maximize wildlife spotting, consider hiring a local guide. They have incredible eyes for spotting camouflaged animals and can identify birds by their calls. Contact Panama Audubon Society or book through Advantage Panama for professional guides (around $100-150 for half-day tours).
GAMBOA
If you have extra time, make a quick stop in Gamboa, a small town on the Chagres River near the Panama Canal. From here, you can:
- Take an aerial tram through the rainforest canopy ($50-70)
- Visit the nearby Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute
- Spot crocodiles along the Chagres River
- Take a boat tour to Monkey Island (a popular tourist activity, though somewhat controversial)
I skipped these activities to maximize time in El Valle, but they’re worth considering if you have an extra day.
EL VALLE DE ANTÓN
After Soberanía, continue west on the Pan-American Highway for about 90 minutes before turning north toward El Valle de Antón. The road climbs into the mountains, and you’ll immediately notice the temperature drop – a welcome relief from Panama City’s heat and humidity.
El Valle de Antón sits inside the crater of an extinct volcano and is one of the largest inhabited volcanic craters in the world. At 600 meters elevation, this mountain town enjoys a perpetual spring climate that makes it a popular weekend getaway for Panama City residents.
I fell in love with El Valle immediately. The cool air, lush cloud forest, friendly locals, and laid-back vibe make it the perfect place to decompress. It’s also significantly less touristy than Boquete, giving it a more authentic feel.
Things to Do in El Valle de Antón
Explore the Sunday Market (Mercado de Artesanías)
If you’re lucky enough to be in El Valle on a Sunday, don’t miss the artisan market. Local vendors sell handicrafts, fresh produce, flowers, and traditional Panamanian foods. Even if you’re not shopping, it’s a great place to experience local life and try traditional treats like:
- Chicheme – sweet corn drink
- Almojábanas – cheese bread rolls
- Carimañolas – deep-fried yuca stuffed with meat
- Fresh tropical fruits you’ve never seen before
The market operates on Sundays from around 7 AM to 1 PM.
Visit the Pozos Termales (Hot Springs)
El Valle has natural hot springs believed to have therapeutic properties. The water is rich in minerals and locals swear by its healing powers. The springs are simple and rustic – basically natural mud baths in concrete pools – but it’s a unique experience.
Entrance fee: $3-4 per person
USEFUL TIP: The hot springs are quite hot (obviously) and the mud is thick. Wear old swimwear as the sulfuric mud can stain. Also, don’t expect luxury spa conditions – this is a very local, authentic experience. Best visited in the morning before it gets crowded.
El Macho Waterfall (Chorro El Macho)
This impressive 35-meter waterfall is one of the most popular attractions in El Valle. A well-maintained trail leads through the forest to the falls, taking about 20-30 minutes each way. The path includes stairs and viewpoints, and you can swim in the pool at the base of the waterfall.
Entrance fee: $4 per person
I visited in the late afternoon and had the place mostly to myself. The waterfall was powerful after recent rains, and the mist created beautiful rainbows in the sunlight. I didn’t swim (the water was quite cold!), but others were braving it.
Canopy Zip Line Adventures
For adrenaline seekers, El Valle has several zip line operations that let you soar through the cloud forest canopy. The most popular is Canopy Lodge El Valle, which has 6 cables spanning up to 400 meters.
Cost: Around $50-75 per person
I didn’t do the zip line on this trip, but I saw other tourists having a blast. It’s a great activity if you have kids or love adventure sports.
La India Dormida (The Sleeping Indian Lady)
This mountain ridge resembles the profile of a sleeping woman and is a popular hiking destination. The trail is moderate, takes 2-3 hours round trip, and offers panoramic views of El Valle and surrounding mountains. According to local legend, an indigenous princess turned to stone after her forbidden love affair.
USEFUL TIP: Start the hike early morning (6-7 AM) to avoid the midday heat and clouds. The trail can be muddy and slippery, so proper hiking shoes are essential. There’s a small entrance fee of $2.
Visit the Butterfly Haven (El Nispero)
This small butterfly conservatory breeds native Panamanian butterfly species. It’s a peaceful spot where you can walk among hundreds of colorful butterflies in a netted garden. They also have a small zoo with rescued animals including golden frogs (El Valle’s mascot), snakes, and birds.
Entrance fee: $5 per person
Square Trees (Árboles Cuadrados)
One of El Valle’s oddities is the square-trunked trees. Yes, really! These trees have naturally square or rectangular trunks, and scientists still debate why. You can find them along certain trails in town. Ask locals for directions or hire a guide.
Relax and Enjoy the Mountain Atmosphere
Honestly, one of the best things about El Valle is simply relaxing. Walk around town, chat with locals, enjoy the flowers and cool climate, and slow down. This is Central America at its most peaceful.
Where to Stay in El Valle de Antón
El Valle has accommodation options for all budgets, from basic hostels to luxury eco-lodges. Since you have a rental car, you’re not limited to staying in the town center.
I stayed at a charming mountain cabin rental called Casa de Montaña that I found on Airbnb. It had a full kitchen, fireplace (yes, needed at night!), and a beautiful garden with hummingbirds. The temperature drops significantly at night in El Valle, so having a fireplace was wonderful.
Budget option: Hostal Casa Amarilla – Clean, friendly, central location
Mid-range: Golden Frog Inn or Hotel Campestre
Luxury: The Panamonte Inn & Spa or Los Mandarinos Boutique Hotel & Spa
For a truly unique experience, consider Canopy Lodge, an upscale eco-lodge focused on birdwatching. It’s pricey ($400+ per night with meals) but world-renowned among birding enthusiasts.
Parking: Not an issue in El Valle. Most accommodations have parking, and street parking in town is easy and safe.
Where to Eat in El Valle:
- Restaurante Santa Librada – Excellent traditional Panamanian food
- Bruschetta e Vino – Italian cuisine, surprisingly good pizza
- Panadería y Dulcería Cano – Bakery with amazing pastries and coffee
- Pizzería Pinocchio – Another solid Italian option
Day 3: El Valle de Antón – Waterfalls and Cloud Forest Exploration

Distance covered: 25 KM (local exploration)
Total drive time: Varies based on activities
Overnight in: El Valle de Antón
I dedicated a full day to exploring more of El Valle’s natural attractions. With only one week, some travelers might skip this and head directly to the Pacific coast or Boquete. However, I’m glad I took the time to really experience this special place.
LA PIEDRA PINTADA (THE PAINTED STONE)
This massive boulder features ancient petroglyphs carved by indigenous people centuries ago. The carvings depict animals, human figures, and geometric designs, though erosion has made some difficult to see. It’s a quick stop (15 minutes) and free to visit.
How to find it: Ask locals for directions or use GPS (9.08972, -80.12472). It’s in a small park near the town center.
CERRO GAITAL NATURAL MONUMENT
For serious hikers, Cerro Gaital offers challenging trails through pristine cloud forest. This protected area is less visited than other El Valle attractions, meaning better wildlife viewing opportunities. I joined a guided hike through El Valle Amphibian Conservation Center and was rewarded with sightings of several frog species, including the critically endangered golden frog.
The hike was steep and muddy but absolutely worth it. My guide explained the conservation efforts to save Panama’s disappearing amphibian species from a deadly fungus. It was both educational and inspiring.
Cost: Guided hikes start around $25 per person (well worth it for the expert knowledge)
AVENTURAS PANAMA
If you’re interested in rock climbing, canyoning, or more extreme adventures, Aventuras Panama is based in El Valle and offers various adrenaline-pumping activities. They can customize adventures based on your experience level.
I tried the canyoning tour, which involved rappelling down waterfalls, jumping into pools, and sliding down natural water slides. It was one of the most thrilling experiences of my trip! The guides were professional, safety-conscious, and the equipment was in excellent condition.
Cost: Around $95 per person for half-day canyoning
CHORRO LAS MOZAS (THE MAIDENS’ WATERFALL)
This is a less-visited waterfall alternative to El Macho. The hike is slightly more challenging but sees fewer tourists. The falls cascade down in multiple tiers, creating beautiful pools for swimming.
USEFUL TIP: Bring a waterproof bag for your phone and valuables. The trail crosses streams multiple times and can be quite wet. Also pack snacks and water as there are no facilities.
Afternoon Relaxation
After morning adventures, I spent the afternoon wandering El Valle’s streets, photographing the abundant flowers (bougainvillea, heliconias, orchids everywhere), and enjoying the tranquility. I stopped at a local café for fresh coffee and homemade desserts while chatting with other travelers.
Coffee tip: El Valle produces excellent coffee. Buy some fresh-roasted beans to take home from local shops. It’s significantly cheaper than in Boquete and just as good.
As evening approached, I drove up to one of the mirador (viewpoint) spots on the crater rim to watch the sunset. The views of the valley below, with mist rolling through the mountains, were magical. This is the kind of moment that makes slow travel so rewarding.
Optional: Night Walk
Some lodges and guides offer night walks to spot nocturnal wildlife. El Valle’s cloud forests come alive after dark with frogs, insects, and sometimes even nocturnal mammals like kinkajous or pacas. If you’re a nature enthusiast, this is highly recommended.
Cost: Around $30-40 per person for guided night walks
Day 4: El Valle de Antón to Boquete (with Optional Santa Catalina Detour)

Distance covered: 185 KM (direct route) or 450 KM (via Santa Catalina)
Total drive time: 3 HRS 30 MIN (direct) or 7+ HRS (with detour)
Overnight in: Boquete (2 consecutive nights)
Today’s drive takes you deeper into the highlands toward Boquete, Panama’s most famous mountain town. I’m presenting two route options depending on your interests and time available.
ROUTE OPTION 1: DIRECT TO BOQUETE (Recommended for One-Week Itinerary)
The straightforward route takes you west on the Pan-American Highway through Santiago and then north through David to Boquete. This is the most practical option if you’re sticking to a one-week itinerary.
The drive itself is pleasant, with mountain views and rural Panamanian landscapes. You’ll pass through small towns where life moves slowly, farmers sell produce by the roadside, and livestock occasionally blocks traffic.
Stop in Santiago: This is a good halfway point to stretch, use facilities, and grab lunch. Santiago is the capital of Veraguas Province and has some decent local restaurants.
Refuel before the mountains: Make sure to fill up your gas tank in David (the last major city before Boquete). Gas stations become sparse in the mountains.
ROUTE OPTION 2: SANTA CATALINA DETOUR (For 10+ Day Itineraries)
If you have extra time, consider a detour to Santa Catalina on the Pacific coast. This adds about 265 kilometers and requires an overnight stop, but it’s worth it for surfers and beach lovers.
Santa Catalina is a laid-back surf town and the jumping-off point for Coiba National Park (often called the “Galapagos of Central America”). The town has grown from a tiny fishing village to a popular backpacker destination, but it still retains its rustic charm.
What to do in Santa Catalina:
- Surf – Some of the best waves in Central America, suitable for beginners and advanced surfers
- Dive or snorkel Coiba National Park – Incredible biodiversity, whale sharks, manta rays, and pristine coral reefs
- Relax on empty beaches – Playa Santa Catalina and Estero Beach are beautiful and uncrowded
I did this detour on a previous Panama trip and loved it. However, for a one-week itinerary, I’d skip it and save Santa Catalina for a future visit.
BOQUETE
After several hours of driving, you’ll turn off the Pan-American Highway near David and begin climbing into the highlands. The road winds upward through coffee plantations and cloud forest, and the temperature drops noticeably with every kilometer.
Boquete sits in a lush valley at 1,200 meters elevation, surrounded by mountains including Volcán Barú (Panama’s highest peak at 3,475 meters). The town has become Panama’s premier mountain destination, attracting outdoor enthusiasts, coffee lovers, and an increasingly large expat community (mostly American and Canadian retirees).
I’ll admit I had mixed feelings about Boquete. On one hand, the natural setting is stunning, the coffee is world-class, and the outdoor activities are excellent. On the other hand, it’s quite touristy and “gringoized” compared to El Valle. Prices are higher, many signs are in English, and you’ll hear more American accents than Spanish in some restaurants.
That said, Boquete deserves its popularity. There’s simply so much to do here.
Things to Do in Boquete
Explore Downtown Boquete
The town center is small and walkable, with a pleasant central plaza (Parque Central), colorful buildings, and numerous cafés and restaurants. The Caldera River runs right through town, creating a peaceful atmosphere.
USEFUL TIP: Arrive in Boquete by mid-afternoon to have time to explore town before sunset. The main street (Avenida Central) has ATMs, supermarkets, tour agencies, and everything you’ll need. Note that Boquete is much cooler than lower elevations – bring a light jacket for evenings.
Visit a Coffee Plantation
Boquete is one of the world’s premier coffee-growing regions, famous for Geisha coffee (some of the most expensive coffee in the world, selling for hundreds of dollars per pound). Taking a coffee tour is essential – you’ll learn about cultivation, processing, roasting, and of course, taste exceptional coffee.
The most famous is Finca Lerida Coffee Estate, but I actually preferred Kotowa Coffee Estate for a more intimate experience. The tour included walking through the plantation, seeing the wet and dry processing mills, learning about different coffee varieties, and a cupping session where we tasted various roasts.
Cost: $25-35 per person for most tours (usually 2-3 hours)
USEFUL TIP: Book your coffee tour in advance, especially during high season (December-April). Tours often fill up quickly. Morning tours are best as the plantation is most active and the light is beautiful for photos.
I bought several bags of fresh-roasted coffee directly from the estate at much better prices than in stores. Even if you’re not a coffee fanatic, you’ll appreciate the quality difference – this is coffee as it’s meant to be.
Soak in Natural Hot Springs (Caldera Hot Springs)
After your coffee tour, head to the natural hot springs. The water is heated by geothermal activity from Volcán Barú and is rich in minerals. Several properties offer hot spring access:
- The Lost Waterfalls + Hot Springs – Combines hiking to waterfalls with hot spring pools ($45)
- Pozos de Caldera – More rustic, local experience ($10-15)
- Caldera Hot Springs Private Cabins – Private pools for couples ($25-40 per hour)
I chose The Lost Waterfalls because I wanted to combine activities. The hike was moderate (about 2 hours through beautiful cloud forest to see three waterfalls), and then we finished at the hot springs. My legs were tired from hiking, so the hot water felt incredible!
Hike the Quetzal Trail (Sendero Los Quetzales)
This is one of Central America’s most famous hiking trails, connecting Boquete to Cerro Punta through cloud forest. The trail is named for the resplendent quetzal, a stunning bird that lives in these forests (though sightings aren’t guaranteed).
The full trail is about 9 kilometers one-way and takes 4-6 hours. Most people arrange transportation to start from the Cerro Punta side (higher elevation) and hike downhill to Boquete, which is much easier.
I hiked only the first section (about 3 kilometers in and back), which took 2.5 hours. Even this short portion was spectacular – massive trees draped in moss, giant ferns, rushing streams, and incredible bird sounds. I didn’t see a quetzal but did spot several trogons and tanagers.
USEFUL TIP: The trail can be very muddy and slippery. Waterproof hiking boots are essential. Also bring rain gear as afternoon showers are common. Start early morning (by 7 AM) for best wildlife viewing and to avoid rain. You can hire a guide through local tour agencies ($80-120 for the full trail).
Take a Waterfall Tour
Boquete has numerous waterfalls accessible by hiking. The most accessible are:
- Los Cangilones de Gualaca – Natural rock formations with turquoise pools (45 minutes from Boquete)
- Hidden Waterfalls Trail – Series of three waterfalls on private property
Many tour operators offer combined waterfall and hot springs packages, which provide excellent value.
Go White Water Rafting on Chiriquí River
For adventure seekers, the Chiriquí Viejo River offers Class III-IV rapids. Several companies in Boquete organize half-day and full-day rafting trips. The scenery is stunning – you’ll raft through deep canyons surrounded by cloud forest.
Cost: Around $85-100 per person for half-day trips
I didn’t raft on this trip (saving it for next time), but I met several travelers who did and they all raved about it.
Explore Finca Dracula Orchid Sanctuary
Just outside Boquete in the Guadalupe area, this orchid garden has over 2,000 species. If you’re into flowers and plants, it’s worth a visit. The property also has nice mountain views.
Cost: $10 per person for guided tours
Visit Pipeline Trail Boquete
Not to be confused with Pipeline Road near Panama City, this is Boquete’s own excellent birding trail. It’s a gentle 3-kilometer walk along an old pipeline route through cloud forest and coffee plantations. Great for morning birdwatching.
Free to access – ask locals for directions to the trailhead
Where to Stay in Boquete
Boquete has abundant accommodation ranging from backpacker hostels to luxury mountain lodges. I recommend staying outside the town center for a more peaceful experience with better views.
I stayed at Finca Lerida Coffee Estate & Boutique Hotel, which was expensive but absolutely worth it. Waking up surrounded by coffee plants with Volcán Barú visible through the mist was magical. The on-site restaurant serves excellent farm-to-table meals, and as a guest, I got a free coffee tour.
Budget option: Mamallena Hostel – Popular with backpackers, social atmosphere
Mid-range: Boquete Garden Inn or Hotel Valle del Rio
Luxury: Finca Lerida, The Haven, or Panamonte Inn & Spa
For a unique experience, consider staying at Coffee Estate Inn – small cabins on a working coffee farm with spectacular views.
Parking: Most accommodations have parking. If staying in town center, confirm parking availability as it can be tight.
Where to Eat in Boquete:
- Il Pianista – Excellent Italian restaurant (yes, Italian food is big in Boquete)
- Big Daddy’s Grill – American-style burgers and steaks (popular with expats)
- Machu Picchu – Good Peruvian food
- Sugar & Spice – Bakery with amazing pastries and breakfast
- Colibri Restaurant – Farm-to-table dining with garden setting
- Sabrosón – For authentic, affordable Panamanian food (less touristy)
FOOD TIP: Restaurant prices in Boquete are noticeably higher than other parts of Panama due to the expat population. For cheaper meals, look for local fondas and sodas away from the main tourist area.
Day 5: Volcán Barú Summit Hike or More Boquete Exploration

Distance covered: 15-30 KM (depending on activities)
Total drive time: Varies
Overnight in: Boquete
Today offers two main options depending on your fitness level and ambitions:
OPTION 1: HIKE VOLCÁN BARÚ (For Experienced Hikers)
Climbing Volcán Barú, Panama’s highest peak at 3,475 meters, is one of the country’s classic adventures. On a clear day, you can see both the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea from the summit – one of the only places on Earth where this is possible!
The Challenge: This is a serious hike. The trail is 13.5 kilometers one-way with 2,300 meters of elevation gain. Most people take 5-7 hours to reach the summit and 3-5 hours to descend. The total hike takes 10-14 hours.
Sunrise Hike Strategy: Most hikers start around midnight to reach the summit for sunrise (around 6 AM). This means hiking in the dark with headlamps, which is challenging but means:
- Avoiding the heat during the steep climb
- Experiencing the magic of dawn from the summit
- Potentially seeing both oceans (clouds usually roll in by mid-morning)
I attempted the sunrise hike but turned back about 2 hours from the summit. The altitude was affecting me more than expected, and I wasn’t properly acclimatized. No shame in knowing your limits! However, the section I did complete was beautiful – hiking through cloud forest under millions of stars, then watching the landscape gradually reveal itself as dawn approached.
USEFUL TIPS for Volcán Barú:
- Hire a guide – While not mandatory, a guide significantly increases your success rate. They know the trail, pace you properly, and provide motivation when you want to quit. Cost: $100-150 per person.
- Bring warm layers – The summit temperature can drop to near freezing. Pack warm jacket, hat, gloves.
- Start hydrated – Drink plenty of water the day before. Bring at least 3 liters for the hike.
- Pack snacks – High-energy foods like nuts, chocolate, fruit. You’ll need calories.
- Headlamp essential – With extra batteries
- Trekking poles recommended – The descent is tough on knees
- Book accommodation near the trailhead – This saves driving in the middle of the night. Most tours include pickup from Boquete.
Physical fitness required: This is a strenuous hike. You should be in good physical condition with previous hiking experience. The altitude gain is significant and affects everyone differently.
Alternative: You can drive most of the way up Volcán Barú on a 4×4 road, though it requires a capable vehicle and good driving skills. This allows you to experience the summit without the intense hike.
OPTION 2: MORE BOQUETE ACTIVITIES (For Non-Hikers)
If you’re not attempting Volcán Barú, dedicate the day to other Boquete activities you missed on Day 4:
Morning: Tree Trek Aerial Adventure
This canopy zip line course has multiple cables, hanging bridges, and a Tarzan swing. It’s thrilling and offers unique perspectives of the cloud forest. The guides are fun and safety-conscious.
Cost: Around $65 per person
Duration: 2-3 hours
Afternoon: Visit Los Ladrillos or Rock Formations
Los Ladrillos are unique volcanic rock formations near Boquete. You can hike through and around these towering basalt columns. It’s like a natural cathedral.
Free to visit – ask locals for directions
Afternoon Option 2: Horseback Riding
Several operators offer horseback riding tours through coffee plantations and cloud forest. This is a relaxing way to experience the landscape, suitable for all skill levels.
Cost: $40-60 per person for 2-3 hour rides
Evening: Sunset at Mirador los Ladrillos
This viewpoint offers stunning sunset views over the valley. It’s accessible by car (though the road is rough) or by hiking. The golden hour light on the mountains is photographer’s dream.
I spent my second evening in Boquete at this viewpoint with a thermos of local coffee, watching the sun set behind the mountains while clouds rolled through the valley below. It was one of those perfect travel moments where you feel incredibly grateful to be exactly where you are.
Relax and Prepare for Tomorrow’s Journey
Your last evening in Boquete is a good time to:
- Enjoy a nice dinner at one of the restaurants
- Buy more coffee (you’ll regret not buying extra!)
- Pack for tomorrow’s journey to Bocas del Toro
- Confirm your hotel in Bocas has parking arrangements (important!)
IMPORTANT PLANNING NOTE: The drive from Boquete to Bocas del Toro tomorrow is long (5-6 hours) and you’ll need to arrive at the water taxi dock before dark. Set your alarm early!
Day 6: Boquete to Bocas del Toro

Distance covered: 230 KM
Total drive time: 5 HRS (to Almirante) + 30 MIN water taxi
Overnight in: Bocas del Toro (2 consecutive nights)
Today involves one of the most dramatic transitions of your Panama road trip – from misty mountain highlands to tropical Caribbean paradise. The journey is long but worthwhile.
THE DRIVE TO ALMIRANTE
Wake up early (I recommend starting by 7 AM at the latest) because you have a full day of travel ahead. The route takes you back down from Boquete to David, then north through the Comarca Ngäbe-Buglé (indigenous territory) to the Caribbean coast.
David to Chiriquí Grande Route:
After leaving the mountains, you’ll drive through banana plantations – endless rows of blue-bagged banana bunches as far as you can see. This region is one of the world’s major banana-producing areas. You’ll see Chiquita and Dole trucks everywhere.
The road conditions are generally good, though you’ll encounter:
- Slow trucks hauling bananas
- Speed bumps in every small town (sometimes unmarked – watch out!)
- Police checkpoints (always have your documents ready)
- Livestock occasionally wandering onto the road
USEFUL TIP: Fill up your gas tank in David before heading north. Gas stations become sparse, and you don’t want to run low. Also, buy snacks and water for the journey as food options are limited until Almirante.
The scenery becomes increasingly tropical as you approach the coast. You’ll cross several rivers and drive through small indigenous communities. The road climbs over a mountain pass before descending to Chiriquí Grande on the coast.
PARKING YOUR RENTAL CAR
Here’s the important part: Bocas del Toro is accessible only by boat, so you cannot take your rental car to the islands. You have two options:
Option 1: Leave car in Almirante (Recommended)
Most travelers leave their rental car in Almirante at secure parking facilities near the water taxi dock. Several companies offer parking:
- Parking Isla Colón – Most popular, $5-8 per day, includes water taxi ticket
- Parking Mundial – Similar rates and security
- Your hotel might have parking arrangements – Ask when booking
I used Parking Isla Colón. The facility is fenced, has 24-hour security, and the staff are helpful. They’ll carry your luggage to the water taxi and explain where to catch the return taxi to the mainland.
Process:
- Drive to parking facility in Almirante (follow signs or use GPS: 9.30, -82.40)
- Park your car and gather your belongings
- Staff help you with luggage to the water taxi dock (5-minute walk)
- Buy water taxi ticket if not included ($6 one-way)
- 30-minute boat ride to Bocas Town on Isla Colón
Option 2: Return car to David
Some travelers prefer to return the rental car in David before taking a bus or shuttle to Almirante. This saves parking fees but adds complexity to your return journey.
I don’t recommend this unless you’re extending your stay in Bocas beyond 2-3 days, as the parking fees are reasonable and having your car waiting for you on the return is incredibly convenient.
WATER TAXI TO BOCAS DEL TORO
The water taxi ride from Almirante to Bocas Town is an adventure itself. You’ll ride in a small motorboat (lancha) that seats 20-30 people. The boats leave frequently throughout the day (approximately every 30 minutes from 6 AM to 6:30 PM).
Cost: $6 per person one-way, $10 round-trip (save your return ticket!)
The ride takes about 25-30 minutes, passing through mangroves before opening to the turquoise Caribbean Sea. You’ll see traditional stilt houses, other islands, and maybe dolphins if you’re lucky!
USEFUL TIP: Sit in the middle or back of the boat – the front gets wet from spray. Protect your electronics in waterproof bags. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take medication before boarding as the ride can be bouncy.
I arrived in Almirante around 1:30 PM, which gave me plenty of time for the boat ride and settling into my Bocas accommodation before sunset. The timing worked perfectly.
BOCAS DEL TORO ARCHIPELAGO
As the boat pulls into Bocas Town, you’ll immediately understand why this place is so popular. The water is impossibly blue, palm trees line the shores, colorful wooden houses on stilts dot the coastline, and the laid-back Caribbean vibe is palpable.
Bocas del Toro consists of nine main islands, plus numerous smaller cays and islets. The main town (Bocas Town) is on Isla Colón, the largest and most developed island. Most tourists base themselves here for easy access to restaurants, tours, and nightlife.
The archipelago has exploded in popularity over the past decade. What was once a quiet backpacker haven has become a major tourist destination. This growth brings pros and cons:
Pros:
- Better infrastructure and accommodation options
- More tour operators and activities
- Good restaurants and bars
- Easy to meet other travelers
Cons:
- Increasing prices
- Development damaging some natural areas
- Cruise ship day-trippers (though less impact than other Caribbean destinations)
- Some areas feel touristy and lose authentic charm
Despite the changes, Bocas del Toro remains stunningly beautiful with incredible marine biodiversity. The coral reefs, mangroves, and rainforest-covered islands are still worth exploring.
Getting Around Bocas Town
Bocas Town is small and very walkable. The main street runs along the waterfront and can be walked end-to-end in 15-20 minutes. Most accommodations, restaurants, and tour agencies are within easy walking distance.
Transportation options:
- Walking – Best for in-town exploration
- Bicycle – Many hotels offer free bikes; rentals are $5-10/day
- Water taxi – For traveling between islands ($1-5 depending on distance)
- Golf cart – Not necessary in Bocas Town but available on Isla Colón for exploring other parts of the island ($40-60/day)
- Kayak – Some hotels provide free kayaks; great for exploring nearby mangroves
Things to Do in Bocas Town (Afternoon/Evening of Day 6)
After arriving and checking into your accommodation, spend the afternoon/evening exploring town:
Walk the main street (Calle 3)
Stroll along the waterfront main street, which is lined with:
- Colorful Caribbean-style wooden buildings
- Restaurants and bars (many with docks extending over the water)
- Tour agencies (book tomorrow’s activities)
- Souvenir shops
- Small grocery stores
Watch sunset from the public dock
Head to the public dock at the north end of town around 5:30 PM. This is the gathering spot for watching the spectacular Caribbean sunset. Locals and tourists alike congregate here with beers in hand, sitting on the dock with their feet dangling over the water.
I met a group of travelers at the dock and we ended up having dinner together – Bocas has that friendly, social atmosphere where it’s easy to connect with other people.
Explore Parque Simón Bolívar
The small central park is the heart of Bocas Town. There’s a basketball court where locals play pickup games, benches for people-watching, and it’s generally the social hub of town.
Try Caribbean cuisine
Bocas food reflects the Afro-Caribbean culture:
- Rondon – Seafood coconut stew (absolutely delicious!)
- Patacones – Fried plantains (different preparation than mainland)
- Fresh fish – Grilled, fried, or in ceviche
- Coconut rice and beans – Caribbean staple
- Johnny cakes – Fried bread, often served with breakfast
Where to eat in Bocas Town:
- Buena Vista Bar & Grill – Great seafood, dock seating, sunset views
- Toro Loco – Excellent sushi (surprisingly!)
- Lili’s Café – Healthy breakfast and smoothie bowls
- El Ultimo Refugio – Good Panamanian food, local favorite
- Starfish Coffee – Best coffee in town (yes, even after Boquete!)
Experience Bocas nightlife
Bocas has a reputation as a party destination. The main nightlife spots are:
- Aqua Lounge – Floating bar/hostel with waterslides, trampoline, party atmosphere
- Mondo Taitu – Live music, cultural shows
- Barco Hundido – Literally a sunken ship turned into a bar
- La Iguana Surf Bar – More laid-back, good for drinks and conversation
I’m not a big partier, so I opted for a quiet dinner at Buena Vista followed by drinks at La Iguana. But if you’re into nightlife, Bocas delivers – the party scene can get quite wild, especially on weekends.
Where to Stay in Bocas del Toro
Bocas Town offers accommodation for every budget and travel style. Since you don’t have your car here, location matters less – everything is walkable or a short water taxi ride away.
I stayed at Palmar Tent Lodge, an overwater bungalow complex about 10 minutes by water taxi from Bocas Town. Waking up to the sound of water lapping beneath the cabin, walking out onto the deck to jump directly into the Caribbean Sea – it was paradise! The lodge is eco-friendly, solar-powered, and surrounded by mangroves where I kayaked at sunrise.
Budget options:
- Selina Bocas del Toro – Modern hostel with private rooms, social atmosphere
- Mondo Taitu Hostel – Good for backpackers, cheap dorms
- Bocas Bound Hostel – Popular with surfers
Mid-range:
- Hotel Bocas del Toro – Waterfront location, good value
- Lula’s B&B – Charming guesthouse with personalized service
- Casa Cayuco – Boutique hotel with Caribbean character
Luxury/Unique:
- Palmar Tent Lodge – Overwater bungalows (my choice!)
- Playa Tortuga Resort – Private beach, high-end
- La Loma Jungle Lodge – Hillside jungle retreat with ocean views
Alternative: Stay on Isla Bastimentos
For a quieter, more authentic experience, consider staying on neighboring Isla Bastimentos. Old Bank (the main village) has more local character and excellent restaurants. You’ll take water taxis to/from Bocas Town (5 minutes, $1-2).
BOOKING TIP: Bocas is very popular during high season (December-April) and prices increase significantly. Book well in advance for best selection and rates. Many places offer discounts for stays of 3+ nights.
Day 7: Bocas del Toro – Island Hopping and Beach Exploration

Distance covered: Various (by boat)
Total drive time: N/A (boat day)
Overnight in: Bocas del Toro
Your final full day in Panama is dedicated to exploring the stunning archipelago. This is pure paradise mode – white sand beaches, crystal-clear water, vibrant coral reefs, and lush tropical islands.
BOAT TOUR OPTIONS
Most visitors join a full-day boat tour that visits multiple islands and snorkeling spots. Tours are easy to book – dozens of agencies line the main street in Bocas Town, or your hotel can arrange them.
Standard boat tours visit:
- Dolphin Bay – Spot bottlenose dolphins (sightings aren’t guaranteed but quite common)
- Coral Cay (Cayo Coral) – Excellent snorkeling with diverse coral formations
- Zapatilla Cays – Two picture-perfect uninhabited islands with pristine beaches
- Starfish Beach (Playa Estrella) – Beach covered with orange starfish in shallow water
- Sloth Island – See three-toed sloths in mangrove trees
Tour cost: $25-35 per person (includes snorkel gear, usually lunch)
Duration: Full day, approximately 9 AM – 4 PM
I joined a group tour with Bocas Water Sports, which had excellent guides, good equipment, and smaller group sizes (max 12 people versus 20+ on some boats). The extra few dollars for a better tour operator is worth it.
DOLPHIN BAY
Our first stop was Dolphin Bay, where we slowly cruised through calm waters looking for dolphins. Within 10 minutes, we spotted a pod of bottlenose dolphins – several adults and calves swimming and playing!
The boat captain followed regulations by maintaining distance and not chasing them. But the dolphins were curious and swam close to the boat several times. Watching them leap and dive in the clear water was magical. This alone made the tour worthwhile!
Note: Dolphins are wild animals. Some tours don’t see them, so don’t be disappointed if sightings don’t happen. The other stops are beautiful regardless.
CORAL CAY – SNORKELING
After dolphins, we anchored at Coral Cay for our first snorkeling session. I slipped into the water and was immediately surrounded by tropical fish – parrotfish, angelfish, sergeant majors, and so many others I couldn’t identify.
The coral formations were beautiful, though I noticed some bleaching and damage (unfortunately common in the Caribbean due to warming waters and tourism impact). Still, the underwater world was vibrant and full of life.
I spent about 45 minutes snorkeling, exploring different sections of the reef. The water visibility was good (about 15-20 meters), and the water temperature was perfect – warm enough not to need a wetsuit.
SNORKELING TIPS:
- Use reef-safe sunscreen only (regular sunscreen damages coral)
- Don’t touch or stand on coral (it’s fragile and you can get cut)
- Watch for sea urchins in shallow areas
- Bring an underwater camera (or rent a GoPro from tour agencies)
- If you’re not a strong swimmer, wear a life vest (provided)
ZAPATILLA CAYS – PARADISE BEACHES
The highlight of the tour was Zapatillas Cays – two uninhabited islands within Bastimentos National Marine Park. These islands are exactly what you imagine when you dream of deserted Caribbean beaches: powdery white sand, coconut palms, turquoise water, and virtually no one else around.
We anchored at Zapatilla Grande (the larger island) for lunch and beach time. The island has basic facilities – a ranger station, picnic tables, and bathrooms – but otherwise remains pristine.
After eating lunch (grilled chicken, rice, and beans provided by the tour), I walked the beach, swam in the crystal-clear water, and just soaked up the incredible beauty. The water was so clear I could see my feet 10 feet down. Small tropical fish swam around my legs.
I also walked the short trail through the island’s interior jungle. Within minutes, I spotted several poison dart frogs (bright red ones!), butterflies, and heard dozens of bird calls. The biodiversity is astounding.
Entrance fee: $5 per person (national park fee, collected by the ranger)
This stop was about 2 hours, but I could have stayed all day. Zapatillas Cays is hands-down one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been.
STARFISH BEACH (PLAYA ESTRELLA)
Our final stop was Starfish Beach on Isla Colón. As the name suggests, this beach is famous for its numerous starfish – large, cushioned sea stars (Oreaster reticulatus) that rest in the shallow water.
The beach itself is nice – calm water, some restaurants and bars, local vendors selling coconut water and jewelry. However, it’s become quite touristy and crowded. When we arrived, there were probably 50+ people in the water, many holding starfish out of the water for photos.
IMPORTANT: Please don’t remove starfish from the water or hold them for long periods. Starfish breathe through their skin and can’t survive long out of water. Many starfish at this beach have died from being handled too much. Look but don’t touch, or touch very gently while they remain underwater.
I spent about 30 minutes here, admired the starfish, had a cold beer at a beach bar, and then we headed back to Bocas Town.
ALTERNATIVE ACTIVITIES IN BOCAS
If you prefer not to join a group tour, consider these alternatives:
Surfing
Bocas has several good surf breaks:
- Playa Paunch (Isla Colón) – Best for beginners
- Playa Dumps (Isla Colón) – Intermediate to advanced
- Silverbacks (Isla Bastimentos) – Advanced only, powerful reef break
Surf lessons available through agencies in town ($40-60 for 2-hour lesson)
Diving
Bocas offers excellent scuba diving with healthy coral reefs, diverse marine life, and interesting sites like caves and channels. The diving isn’t as famous as Coiba, but it’s more accessible and still very good.
Popular dive sites:
- Hospital Point – Healthy coral reef, nurse sharks
- Crawl Cay – Channel dive with strong currents, great for drift diving
- Túnicos – Cave systems and tunnels
Cost: $65-85 for two-tank dives; $350-450 for PADI Open Water certification
Kayaking/SUP
Rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard to explore mangroves and nearby islands independently. This is more peaceful than motorboat tours and great for wildlife viewing (birds, sloths, fish).
Cost: $10-15 per hour or $30-40 full day
Visit Bocas Butterfly Garden
This small butterfly farm on Isla Colón breeds native butterfly species. It’s a peaceful spot to learn about butterfly life cycles and walk among beautiful specimens.
Cost: $5 entrance
Take a Chocolate Tour
Learn about cacao cultivation and chocolate production at Oreba Chocolate Farm on Isla Bastimentos. The tour includes hiking through cacao plantation, processing demonstration, and tasting.
Cost: $30-40 per person
Relax and Do Nothing
Honestly, one of the best things about Bocas is simply relaxing. Read a book in a hammock, swim whenever you feel like it, sip tropical drinks, and embrace the “island time” mentality.
Sunset at Bocas Beaches
For your final evening, head to one of these beaches for sunset:
- Boca del Drago – North end of Isla Colón, beautiful sunset beach (take water taxi or rent golf cart)
- Bluff Beach – Wild, undeveloped beach with powerful waves (not for swimming)
- Big Creek Beach – Quieter alternative to Starfish Beach
I chose Boca del Drago. I took a water taxi ($3 per person) and arrived about an hour before sunset. The beach was quiet with just a few locals. I bought a cold beer from a beachside vendor, sat in the sand, and watched the sun sink into the Caribbean Sea.
It was the perfect way to end my Panama road trip – grateful, relaxed, and already planning my return visit.
Final Night in Bocas
For your last dinner, I recommend trying a restaurant you haven’t visited yet. I had an incredible meal at Bibi’s on the Beach – fresh lobster with garlic butter, coconut rice, and passion fruit cheesecake. Not cheap ($40 for dinner with drinks) but worth it for a special final meal.
After dinner, I walked the waterfront one last time, said goodbye to Bocas Town’s colorful buildings lit up at night, and mentally prepared for the return journey tomorrow.
Return Journey & Departure
Day 8: Bocas del Toro to Panama City
If you’re flying out of Panama City, you have two main options:
Option 1: Drive Back (Recommended if time allows)
Reverse your route: water taxi to Almirante, collect your car from secure parking, drive back through Chiriquí to Panama City. This takes a full day (7-8 hours driving plus breaks).
- Leave Bocas early (7 AM water taxi)
- Arrive Panama City late afternoon/evening
- Stay overnight near airport if you have early morning flight
- Return rental car at Tocumen Airport
Option 2: Fly from Bocas (More expensive but saves time)
If your schedule is tight, fly from Bocas del Toro Airport (BOC) to Panama City (PTY). Air Panama operates daily flights.
- Return car in David before catching separate flight to Bocas (requires advance planning)
- Or arrange one-way car rental drop-off (expensive)
- Flight time: 50 minutes
- Cost: $150-250 depending on booking time
I drove back, leaving Bocas at 7 AM and arriving in Panama City around 5 PM. The drive felt long after relaxing in Bocas, but I enjoyed revisiting some of the landscapes and made a nice lunch stop in Boquete.
Airport hotel recommendation: If you have an early flight, stay at Albrook Inn (15 minutes from airport, free shuttle) or Riande Airport Hotel (literally beside airport).
What I Skipped and What I’d Suggest Skipping
Colón – Panama’s second-largest city is a port town with a rough reputation. Most travelers visit only for Canal viewing at Agua Clara Locks or cruise ship arrivals. Unless you have specific business in Colón, skip it.
Panama Viejo – While historically significant (original Panama City ruins), I found it less impressive than Casco Viejo. If you’re short on time, one historic area is enough.
Metropolitan Natural Park – Nice urban park in Panama City, but after experiencing Soberanía and other natural areas, it pales in comparison. Skip unless you desperately need nature within city limits.
More time in Bocas nightlife – While Bocas has a famous party scene, it can get quite rowdy and repetitive. Two evenings experiencing it is plenty; beyond that, it loses novelty.
Isla Carenero – This small island near Bocas Town has some nice hotels but isn’t necessary to visit unless you’re staying there.
What I Wish I Had More Time For
San Blas Islands (Guna Yala) – This autonomous indigenous territory features 365 pristine islands and incredible cultural experiences. However, it requires at least 2-3 extra days and doesn’t fit a one-week itinerary. It’s at the top of my list for the next Panama visit!
Darién Province – Panama’s wild frontier with pristine rainforest and indigenous communities. Very remote, requires guided tours, but offers unparalleled adventure. Needs 4-5+ extra days.
Hiking more trails in Boquete – Quetzal Trail, Pianista Trail, and various waterfall hikes. Boquete deserves 4-5 days if you’re a serious hiker.
Extended time in Bocas – 2 nights felt rushed. 4-5 days would allow diving certification, surfing lessons, visiting more islands, and truly relaxing.
Pacific Beaches (Santa Catalina, Pedasí, Pearl Islands) – All beautiful destinations that require a separate trip or 10-14 day itinerary.
Final Thoughts on My Panama Road Trip
Panama exceeded my expectations in every way. The diversity packed into this small country is remarkable – you experience rainforests, cloud forests, mountains, Caribbean beaches, colonial history, and modern city life all in one week.
The road trip format works perfectly for Panama. Having a car gave me flexibility, allowed access to remote areas, and let me travel at my own pace. Yes, some drives were long, but the scenery made them enjoyable.
Key takeaways:
- One week is enough to see highlights but feels a bit rushed
- 10-14 days would be ideal for a more relaxed pace
- Panama is more expensive than neighboring Central American countries but still offers good value
- The contrast between regions (mountains vs. coast) means packing for varied climates
- Panamanians are friendly and helpful, though less English is spoken outside touristy areas
- The food is good but not as exciting as Mexican or Peruvian cuisine
- Infrastructure is better than expected – good roads, reliable internet, modern amenities
Would I return? Absolutely! San Blas Islands, Darién Province, and more time in the mountains are calling my name.
Panama Travel Resources
Planning your trip to Panama soon? Below are some useful links to travel booking resources that I personally use:
Flights:
- Google Flights – Best for comparing fares and finding deals
- Copa Airlines – Panama’s flagship carrier with excellent connections throughout Latin America
Car Rental:
- Discover Cars – Compare rates and save up to 70%
- Rentalcars.com – Reliable with good customer service
Accommodation:
- Booking.com – Best selection, Genius discounts for members
- Airbnb – Good for longer stays and unique properties
- Hostelworld – Budget travelers and backpackers
Travel Insurance:
- SafetyWing – Affordable coverage, perfect for digital nomads
- Heymondo – Comprehensive coverage including adventure activities
Tours & Activities:
- Viator – Wide selection of tours, easy booking
- GetYourGuide – Good prices, verified reviews
- Local tour operators – Often cheaper when booking directly in Panama
Money:
- Panama uses US Dollar – no currency exchange needed for Americans!
- ATMs widely available (use bank ATMs, avoid gas station/convenience store ATMs)
- Credit cards accepted in cities; carry cash for rural areas
- Notify your bank before traveling to avoid card blocks
Communication:
- Buy local SIM card at Tocumen Airport (Claro or Movistar, around $10-20 for tourist packages)
- Most accommodations have WiFi
- WhatsApp is essential for communicating with hotels, tour operators, and locals
I hope you found this Panama road trip itinerary useful! This one-week journey offers an incredible introduction to Panama’s diverse landscapes and cultures.
Safe travels and pura vida! 🌴🌊☕
