How To Hike in Jotunheimen: The Complete Guide to Norway’s Home of the Giants
Jotunheimen National Park is Norway’s premier hiking destination, and for good reason. This is where you’ll find the country’s highest peaks, most dramatic landscapes, and some of the most spectacular trails in all of Northern Europe.
Known as the “Home of the Giants,” Jotunheimen features the tallest mountains in Norway and Northern Europe, including Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind. The park encompasses roughly 3,500 square kilometers of towering peaks, ancient glaciers, and crystal-clear alpine lakes that shimmer in shades of emerald and sapphire.
When I first arrived in Jotunheimen, I was struck by how the landscape seemed almost mythical. The mountains rise dramatically from glacial valleys, and the contrast between the turquoise Lake Gjende and the deep blue Lake Bessvatnet is something you simply have to see to believe.
There are more than 200 summits over 2,000 meters and a well-developed system of DNT trails and mountain huts that make multi-day treks both accessible and comfortable. Whether you’re after a challenging ridge walk, a glacier climb, or a peaceful valley stroll, Jotunheimen delivers.
In this comprehensive guide, I’ll share everything you need to know about hiking in Jotunheimen, including the best trails, when to visit, how to get there, and essential tips for making the most of your adventure in Norway’s most spectacular national park.
THE BESSEGGEN RIDGE: JOTUNHEIMEN’S SIGNATURE HIKE
Hike Overview
Start / Finish: Memurubu to Gjendesheim (via ferry)
Distance: 14-16 km / 8.7-9.9 miles
Duration: 6-8 hours
Elevation gain: 1,000-1,100 meters
Difficulty: Medium to Difficult
The Besseggen Ridge is considered one of Norway’s most well-known hikes, and approximately 60,000 hikers tackle this iconic trail each year. After completing it myself, I can confidently say the hype is justified.
The Besseggen Ridge hike takes you along a narrow mountain ridge perched between two stunning lakes. Lake Gjende has a distinct turquoise color from glacier runoff containing clay and rock flour, while Lake Bessvatnet lies 400 vertical meters above Lake Gjende with crystal-clear blue water.
The trail begins at Memurubu after taking a scenic ferry across Lake Gjende. The first challenge comes immediately: a steep ascent from the ferry dock that gets your heart pumping and sets the tone for the day ahead.
The most challenging part comes after you pass Lake Bessvatnet, with a sharp ascent along big rock slabs where scrambling with the help of hands is required. Once you reach the famous ridge section, the views are absolutely breathtaking. Standing on the narrow ridge with a sheer drop on one side and looking out over both lakes simultaneously is a moment I’ll never forget.
The second half of the hike takes you across a vast, rugged plateau before descending back to Gjendesheim. I spotted several reindeer grazing in this section, adding to the wild, untamed feeling of the landscape.
We completed the hike in about 7 hours, including plenty of stops for photos and snacks. The trail was busy, but not uncomfortably so, and the camaraderie among hikers added to the experience.
Getting to the Trailhead
The Besseggen Ridge hike starts in Jotunheimen National Park, approximately 3-4 hours drive from Oslo.
By Car
From Oslo, take the E16 toward Fagernes, then switch to Road 51 toward Gjendesheim. The scenery along this drive is spectacular, with emerald lakes and mountain vistas around every corner.
In summer months, there’s a long-term car park outside Gjendesheim with a shuttle bus to the ferry terminal. The car park costs 300 NOK for 2 days and 400 NOK for 3 days. During peak season, arrive early as parking fills up quickly, especially for the first ferry departure.
By Bus
Direct buses run from Oslo with NOR-WAY line NW161, which stops in Fagernes and Beitostølen. This bus line operates from early June to early October. The bus stops at Gjendesheim, right at the trailhead.
From Otta train station, local buses connect to various locations throughout Jotunheimen, including Gjendesheim.
The Gjende Ferry
The ferry across Lake Gjende runs frequently in summer and twice daily in spring and autumn, taking 20 minutes from Gjendesheim to Memurubu. Book your ferry tickets in advance during peak season at gjende.no.
Most hikers take the ferry to Memurubu first and hike back to Gjendesheim. This is the recommended direction as it’s safer to ascend the ridge rather than descend it, and you won’t be rushed to catch a return ferry.
HIKING INSTRUCTIONS FOR BESSEGGEN RIDGE
Memurubu to Bessvatnet Lake (2-3 hours)
Take the morning ferry from Gjendesheim to Memurubu. As you disembark, look up at the steep path ahead—it’s daunting but doable.
The trail immediately begins a steep ascent from Memurubu. The path zigzags up the mountainside with stunning views back over Lake Gjende and the glacier river Muru. This first climb gains significant elevation quickly, so pace yourself and take breaks when needed.
After about an hour of steady climbing, the gradient eases and you’ll traverse across the mountainside. The views become more expansive with each step, and you’ll catch your first glimpses of Lake Bessvatnet below.
The trail continues climbing gradually until you reach the shores of Lake Bessvatnet. This is considered Norway’s clearest lake, where you can see as far as 30 meters below the water surface. It’s a perfect spot for a water break and snack.
Bessvatnet to Besseggen Ridge Summit (1.5-2 hours)
From Lake Bessvatnet, prepare for the most challenging section. The trail climbs steeply up large rock slabs. This is where you’ll need to use your hands for scrambling in places. The footing can be tricky, so take your time and watch where you place your feet.
This section is physically demanding but relatively short. Before you know it, you’ll emerge onto the famous Besseggen Ridge itself.
The ridge section is narrow but not technically difficult. If you discover you’re afraid of heights, you can turn around and return to Memurubu or follow a trail along Lake Bessvatnet to Bessheim or Gjendesheim.
The views from the ridge are extraordinary. To your left, Lake Gjende glows emerald green 400 meters below. To your right, the deep blue waters of Lake Bessvatnet shimmer in the sun. Mountains stretch to the horizon in every direction.
The highest point sits at 1,743 meters above sea level, marked by a cairn. This is the most photographed spot on the trail, and for good reason. Take your time here—you’ve earned it.
Besseggen Ridge to Gjendesheim (2.5-3 hours)
After cresting the ridge, the trail continues across a high plateau. The landscape here feels wild and exposed, with rocky terrain and patches of alpine vegetation.
Keep your eyes out for reindeer, which are commonly spotted on the descent. I saw a small herd grazing peacefully near the trail.
About 1 kilometer past the summit, the path splits. You can continue straight to Gjendesheim or veer left toward Bessheim. Most hikers head to Gjendesheim where the ferry terminal and main facilities are located.
The descent is long and can be tough on the knees, but the trail is well-maintained with good footing. The gradient is gentle compared to the earlier climbs, and you’ll pass through varying terrain including rocky sections and grassy meadows.
As you approach Gjendesheim, the path becomes easier and you’ll see the tourist lodge ahead. Congratulations—you’ve completed one of Norway’s most iconic hikes!
OTHER SPECTACULAR HIKES IN JOTUNHEIMEN
Galdhøpiggen: Norway’s Highest Peak (2,469m)
Norway’s highest mountain towers over the surrounding peaks and offers fantastic views over Jotunheimen. The hike to the summit starts at Juvasshytta or Spiterstulen and involves crossing the Styggebreen glacier.
Part of the hike crosses the glacier, which requires a guide and walking in a rope team. The glacier is fairly flat with no large crevasses, so crampons are unnecessary, but hidden breaks and snow bridges make walking without a rope team dangerous.
The guided glacier hike typically takes 5-6 hours round trip and is an unforgettable experience. Standing on Norway’s rooftop with 360-degree views of Jotunheimen’s peaks is truly special.
Glittertind: Norway’s Second Highest (2,465m)
Stage 2 of the Jotunheimen Tour includes a summit of Glittertind, Norway’s second highest summit, with snow crossings even in high summer. The ascent from Glitterheim hut is steep but manageable for fit hikers.
The summit offers incredible views across Jotunheimen, and on clear days, you can see for miles in every direction.
Knutshø: The Quieter Alternative
Knutshø mountain (1,517m) is Besseggen’s quieter alternative, offering fantastic hiking along the mountain ridge with breathtaking views. The trail is less crowded and takes you through varied terrain and lush scenery.
Throughout the hike, you’ll enjoy great views of Besseggen and the surrounding area, with a steep section at the beginning requiring easy climbing.
Svartdalen Valley Trek
The trail from Torfinnsbu to Gjendebu through Svartdalen features amazing mountains, beautiful valleys, waterfalls, and river crossings. The boulders in the middle section are challenging but manageable.
This is one of the most diverse trails in Jotunheimen, showcasing different ecosystems and landscapes throughout the day.
Utladalen Valley
Utladalen Valley features towering waterfalls and steep cliffs creating a truly magical landscape. This valley is less strenuous than the ridge hikes but equally beautiful, perfect for a recovery day or for hikers wanting something easier.
Multi-Day Hut-to-Hut Trekking
Several multi-day trails allow you to fully immerse yourself in the park, staying in charming mountain lodges where you can rest, refuel, and enjoy traditional Norwegian meals.
The Jotunheimen Tour is a 6-day trek covering 90 kilometers with typical days of 16 kilometers and 700 meters of ascent. This iconic route takes you through the heart of the national park, connecting mountain huts and summiting several peaks.
The 6-day trek from Gjendesheim to Gjendebu via Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, and Leirvassbu is particularly spectacular, showcasing the best of Jotunheimen’s landscapes.
MOUNTAIN HUTS AND LODGES IN JOTUNHEIMEN
One of the great pleasures of hiking in Jotunheimen is staying at the traditional Norwegian mountain huts. These comfortable lodges offer hot meals, warm beds, and the chance to connect with fellow hikers.
Gjendesheim
Located at the eastern end of Lake Gjende, Gjendesheim is the main hub for Besseggen hikers. The lodge offers private rooms and dormitory accommodation, plus a restaurant serving hearty Norwegian fare. There’s also a small shop for last-minute supplies.
After finishing the Besseggen Ridge hike, I grabbed a well-deserved beer on their outdoor terrace overlooking the lake—the perfect way to celebrate completing the trail.
Memurubu
Situated at the starting point of the Besseggen hike, Memurubu offers accommodation and meals in a stunning lakeside setting. One of the oldest huts sits on the shores of Lake Gjende, perfect for a wake-up swim.
Bessheim
Close to Gjendesheim, Bessheim offers another accommodation option with both rooms and camping facilities. It’s a good alternative if Gjendesheim is fully booked.
Glitterheim and Spiterstulen
These huts serve hikers tackling Glittertind and Galdhøpiggen. They’re beautifully located in high alpine settings with incredible mountain views.
Fondsbu Lodge
When hiking on the King’s Road, you stay at Fondsbu Lodge on the shores of Lake Bygdin, a lodge particularly famous for its great local cuisine.
Booking Mountain Huts
Mountain huts book up quickly, especially during July and early August. Reserve your accommodation months in advance through the DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association) website. Most huts offer both private rooms (with shared bathrooms) and dormitory beds at different price points.
BEST TIME TO HIKE IN JOTUNHEIMEN
The best time for hiking in Jotunheimen National Park is from mid-July until the end of August. During these peak months, all facilities are open, the weather is warmest, and the trails are snow-free.
In June and September, the weather can also be great, but chances of lower temperatures, more rain, or even snow are higher.
The hiking season for Besseggen runs from mid-June to mid-October when the boats operate regularly on Lake Gjende. Peak season is July and the first half of August, which is also when trails are busiest.
There may be snow on the ridge until about mid-June, so make sure the snow is gone to ensure good footing.
I hiked Besseggen in mid-September and found it to be an excellent time. The weather was still good, the autumn colors were beginning to appear, and the crowds had thinned considerably compared to high summer.
Weather Considerations
Norwegian mountain weather is notoriously changeable. I’ve experienced brilliant sunshine turn to rain and fog within an hour. Weather conditions on the trail can change dramatically, and rain is common in the afternoon.
Always check the weather forecast before setting out and be prepared to turn back if conditions deteriorate. Yr.no is the most reliable weather service for Norway.
WHAT TO PACK FOR HIKING IN JOTUNHEIMEN
Essential Gear
Hiking Boots: Proper hiking boots are non-negotiable. With an elevation gain of nearly 1,100 meters on uneven terrain, suitable hiking shoes are crucial. Don’t wear new boots—break them in beforehand to avoid blisters.
Layers and Waterproofs: The Norwegian mountain maxim is “there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” Pack warm layers including:
- Base layer (wool or synthetic)
- Insulating mid-layer (fleece or down jacket)
- Waterproof and windproof outer shell
- Hat, gloves, and scarf (yes, even in summer!)
There may be occasional strong gusts of wind on Besseggen, so wear wind and waterproof outerwear. Always pack an extra set of clothes.
Hiking Poles: I initially dismissed hiking poles as unnecessary, but after using them in Jotunheimen, I’m a convert. They significantly reduce stress on your knees during long descents and provide stability on rocky terrain.
Food and Water: Always bring enough food and drink when you set out. It’s important to have enough refills to ensure your energy reserves last all the way back, not just to the top of the ridge.
I packed trail mix, energy bars, sandwiches, chocolate, and two liters of water. You can refill water bottles at mountain streams (the water is pristine), but bring enough to start with.
Navigation: The route follows waymarked trails in Jotunheimen National Park, all marked by red painted T’s on rocks. Despite good waymarking, bring a map and compass (and know how to use them). Download offline maps on your phone as backup.
Sun Protection: At high altitude, the sun is intense even on cloudy days. Bring high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat with sun protection.
First Aid Kit: A basic first aid kit with blister treatment, pain relievers, bandages, and any personal medications is essential.
Optional but Recommended
- Camera and extra batteries
- Portable charger for your phone
- Emergency bivvy bag
- Head torch
- Insulated flask for hot drinks
There are no toilets along the trails, so do your business before starting. If you must go along the way, keep downhill from trails and away from streams and lakes. Bring your rubbish back to a bin.
SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
Physical Fitness
Jotunheimen’s trails are demanding. The Norwegian mountains are steep and rugged, with trails kept very natural. Trails can be uneven with large rocks or loose scree, and steep sections. Rocks are often wet from rain.
Never start a mountain hike without being in good enough physical shape. Every year, rescue operations help hikers who are exhausted, injured, freezing cold, or lost.
Be honest about your fitness level and choose trails appropriate to your ability. If you’re uncertain, consider joining a guided hike.
Emergency Contacts
In case of emergency, contact the Joint Rescue Coordination Centre (JRCC) at +47 51 51 70 00 for JRCC Southern Norway, which covers Jotunheimen National Park.
Save these numbers in your phone before you start hiking:
- 110 – Fire
- 112 – Police
- 113 – Ambulance
Allemannsretten: Right to Roam
Norway’s ‘Allemannsretten’ (right to roam) was established in the Outdoor Recreation Act in 1957, allowing you to wild camp anywhere in open country (not fenced land) while respecting certain rules.
This means you can camp freely in Jotunheimen, but please:
- Leave no trace
- Camp at least 150 meters from buildings
- Don’t light fires near forests
- Remove all rubbish
- Respect wildlife
GETTING TO JOTUNHEIMEN NATIONAL PARK
By Car
Driving offers the most flexibility for exploring Jotunheimen. The park is centrally located in southern Norway, accessible from multiple directions:
- From Oslo: 3-4 hours via E16 and Road 51
- From Bergen: 5-6 hours via E16
- From Trondheim: 5 hours via E6 and Road 51
Roads in the region are well-maintained but can be narrow and winding. Drive carefully, especially in poor weather.
By Public Transport
Daily bus service runs from Oslo to Lom on routes 147 and 148, taking approximately 6.5 hours.
The nearest train stop to Jotunheimen National Park is at Otta, where local buses connect to locations throughout the area.
From Otta, buses serve Gjendesheim, Lom, and other access points. Check schedules carefully as some routes only operate in summer.
Where to Base Yourself
Gjendesheim: Best for Besseggen Ridge and eastern Jotunheimen trails. Limited accommodation, book early.
Beitostølen: Larger town with more accommodation and services, about 30 minutes from Gjendesheim.
Lom: Charming town with good facilities on the western side of the park.
Otta: Larger town with train access, good base for public transport users.
TRAINING FOR JOTUNHEIMEN
It’s extremely important to be a confident and capable hiker due to the remoteness of the areas. Trip fitness is essential.
I recommend at least 2-3 months of preparation before tackling trails like Besseggen. Focus on:
Cardiovascular Fitness: Regular running, cycling, or brisk walking will build the endurance needed for long days on the trail.
Leg Strength: Squats, lunges, and step-ups prepare your muscles for steep ascents and descents. Stair climbing with a weighted backpack is excellent training.
Hiking Practice: Complete progressively longer hikes with elevation gain. Practice hiking downhill as this is often harder on the body than climbing.
Acclimatization: If possible, do some easier hikes in Jotunheimen before attempting the bigger trails to acclimatize to the altitude and terrain.
MY PERSONAL TIPS FOR HIKING JOTUNHEIMEN
After hiking extensively in Jotunheimen, here are my hard-earned tips:
Start Early: Taking the first ferry or starting early in the morning means fewer crowds, cooler temperatures for the ascent, and plenty of time to complete the hike without rushing.
Pack Light: Every extra kilogram makes a difference on steep climbs. Bring only essentials.
Take Breaks: Don’t try to rush through these hikes. Stop regularly to rest, hydrate, and enjoy the views. That’s what you came for!
Check the Weather: Norwegian mountain weather changes fast. Always check forecasts and be prepared to postpone if conditions are poor.
Bring Cash: Some mountain huts and facilities prefer cash. Bring Norwegian Kroner just in case.
Learn Basic Norwegian Phrases: While most Norwegians speak excellent English, learning a few phrases shows respect and enhances the cultural experience.
Respect the Mountains: Jotunheimen is a wild place. Don’t take unnecessary risks, stay on marked trails, and know your limits.
Enjoy the Moment: Put your phone away sometimes and simply be present in these incredible landscapes. The memories will last longer than the Instagram likes.
WHY JOTUNHEIMEN SHOULD BE ON YOUR BUCKET LIST
Hiking in Jotunheimen was one of the most rewarding experiences of my outdoor adventures. The combination of dramatic landscapes, well-maintained trails, comfortable mountain huts, and Norwegian hospitality creates something truly special.
The Jotunheimen Mountains are a place of superlatives—the highest mountains in Norway and Northern Europe, the most visited national park, and home to Norway’s most popular day hike.
Whether you spend a day hiking Besseggen Ridge or a week trekking hut-to-hut through the heart of the park, Jotunheimen will challenge you, inspire you, and stay with you long after you return home.
The moment I stood on the Besseggen Ridge, with two jewel-like lakes on either side and mountains stretching to infinity, I understood why Norwegians consider this a rite of passage. These are the Home of the Giants indeed.
So lace up your boots, pack your layers, and set out to explore one of Europe’s last great wilderness areas. The mountains are calling, and Jotunheimen delivers an adventure you’ll never forget.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Jotunheimen is accessible yet wild, challenging yet achievable, and spectacular in every season. With proper preparation, respect for the mountains, and a spirit of adventure, any reasonably fit hiker can experience the magic of Norway’s highest peaks.
I returned from Jotunheimen with sore legs, hundreds of photos, and an overwhelming desire to go back. The mountains get into your blood. Once you’ve hiked the Home of the Giants, you’ll understand why Norwegians treasure this place so deeply.
See you on the trail!