How To Hike in Kerlingarfjöll (Map & Instructions)

This spectacular hike takes you through Iceland’s geothermal wonderland in the remote highlands. It’s a surreal journey through steaming vents, colorful rhyolite mountains, and otherworldly landscapes.

Kerlingarfjöll is a volcanic mountain range draped in snow and capped with rust-colored peaks that rise dramatically from Iceland’s central highlands. The jewel of this remote paradise is Hveradalir – the “Valley of Hot Springs” – where the earth bubbles, steams, and hisses in a display of raw geothermal power.

This mountain range sits wedged between two massive glaciers in the heart of Iceland’s interior. In Icelandic legend, these mountains were a refuge for trolls and outlaws, and standing here amidst the fog and sulfurous steam, it’s easy to see why.

The most popular trail takes you from the highland center in Ásgarður to the geothermal area of Hveradalir, covering approximately 7.3 miles with an elevation gain of 1,820 feet. The landscape transforms with every step – from barren rocky terrain to vivid red, orange, and yellow rhyolite hills contrasted brilliantly against patches of white snow.

The views are absolutely breathtaking, with colors shifting from vibrant reds to soft yellows and dazzling whites, creating one of the most surreal panoramas imaginable. Steaming fumaroles pierce through the colorful earth, bubbling mud pots gurgle ominously, and hot springs steam in the crisp highland air.

The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort serves as base camp for this adventure. It’s one of the most remote accommodations in Iceland and offers everything from camping to modern double rooms.

The walk is graded moderate to moderate-difficult. You’ll need good fitness to handle the elevation changes, navigate potentially muddy and slippery terrain near geothermal features, and be prepared for unpredictable highland weather that can shift from sunshine to snow in minutes.

In this blog post, I’ve covered everything you need to know about hiking in Kerlingarfjöll, including how to get to the trailhead, detailed trail maps, comprehensive hiking instructions, and essential safety information.

KERLINGARFJÖLL HIKE OVERVIEW

Main Trail: Ásgarður to Hveradalir Loop

Start / Finish: Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort (Ásgarður)
Distance: 11.7 km / 7.3 miles (loop)
Duration: 4 to 4.5 hours
Elevation gain: 555 meters / 1,820 feet
Difficulty: Moderate to Moderate-Difficult

I absolutely loved this hike. Unlike many loop trails that feel repetitive, this route constantly surprises you with new vistas and geological wonders.

The hike begins at the highland center in Ásgarður and leads to the protected geothermal area of Hveradalir. The trail starts with a steady climb through barren highland terrain, following the Ásgarðsá river for the first kilometer.

The path then ascends toward a mountain pass beside Hveradalahnúkur peak, where you’ll feel like you’re on another planet entirely. The sense of remoteness is profound – this is true wilderness hiking.

Once you reach the rim above Hveradalir valley, you descend down to the canyon floor. This descent can be challenging as the slopes become muddy and slippery, especially near the geothermal features. I recommend taking your time here and using hiking poles if you have them.

The geothermal area itself is nothing short of spectacular. You’ll cross small bridges over steaming rivers, walk past hissing fumaroles, and navigate around boiling hot springs that paint the ground in impossible colors.

We rated this hike as moderate to moderate-difficult for several reasons.

Firstly, the 555-meter elevation gain and loss demands reasonable fitness. The thin highland air at nearly 1,000 meters elevation makes the climbs more taxing than you’d expect.

Secondly, the descent into Hveradalir can be extremely slippery, with clay-like mud that becomes treacherous in wet conditions. There are some steep sections with steps installed, but caution is absolutely essential, especially near geothermal features where the ground can be unstable.

Hikers must show great caution near geothermal vents in the Hveradalir area and never step near boiling hot springs, as people have been badly burned in accidents here.

Finally, the area is prone to fog and harsh weather conditions, with snow possible even in summer, and hikers often lose their way. I cannot stress enough the importance of having proper navigation tools.

I recommend sturdy hiking boots with excellent grip for this trail. I saw people attempting it in running shoes, and I can’t imagine that was comfortable or safe.

It took me 4 hours and 15 minutes of hiking time, but I spent about 6 hours total, stopping frequently to photograph the incredible scenery and simply stand in awe of the landscape.

KERLINGARFJÖLL HIKE MAP

Below is an interactive map showing the main hiking trails in Kerlingarfjöll. The Ásgarður to Hveradalir loop is the most popular route.

Key Locations:

Ásgarður (Highland Base): Main parking and accommodation area (marked in brown)
Hveradalir Geothermal Area: The destination of the main hike (marked in red)
Alternative Parking: 4×4 parking near geothermal area, 5km from Ásgarður (marked in blue)

Trail Options:

Trail 2: Main Ásgarður to Hveradalir loop (11.7 km)
Hveradalir Circle: Shorter loop from upper parking (4 km, 1.5-2 hours)
Snækollur Summit: Challenging climb to highest peak at 1,428m (5-6 hours)
Ring Route (Hringbrautin): Multi-day trek with mountain huts (3 days)

For physical maps, I recommend the Icelandic hiking map covering the Highlands region. For digital maps, download the Iceland region on Maps.me – it has all the trails and works offline, which is crucial since cell service is non-existent here.

USING THE MAP: Click the star to save to your Google account. Enable GPS tracking to follow your progress on the trail.

GETTING TO KERLINGARFJÖLL

Kerlingarfjöll is located deep in Iceland’s central highlands, accessible only via F-roads (mountain roads). These rough gravel tracks close down for winter in late September or early October after the first snow, reopening in June.

The trailhead is at Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort (Ásgarður), reached via the F35 Kjölur route and F347.

BY CAR (4X4 REQUIRED)

CRITICAL: A 4×4 vehicle is required for all F-roads in Iceland, as 2WD rental cars are not insured on these roads due to extreme conditions.

From Reykjavík: Take Route 1 north, then Route 35 through Þingvellir National Park toward Gullfoss. Continue on F35 (Kjölur route) northbound. After approximately 50km on F35, turn onto F347 (well-marked). Follow F347 for 10km to Ásgarður. Total journey: approximately 3.5 hours (180km).

From Gullfoss: Follow Route 35 north, transitioning to F35. Continue as above. Journey: approximately 2 hours (90km).

From North Iceland (Akureyri): Take F35 southbound from Route 1, then turn onto F347. Journey: approximately 2.5 hours.

The F35 Kjölur route is one of the easier F-roads and doesn’t require river crossings, but the road is still rough, with loose gravel and occasional potholes. Drive slowly and carefully.

ALWAYS check road conditions before departing at www.road.is or www.safetravel.is. Highland roads can close unexpectedly due to weather.

There is ample parking at Ásgarður near the Mountain Resort. No reservation needed for parking.

ALTERNATIVE: 4X4 PARKING NEAR HVERADALIR

From the resort, you can drive an additional 3km on a rough gravel road to reach a parking area closer to Hveradalir. This allows you to do the shorter Hveradalir Circle hike (4km loop, 1.5-2 hours) instead of the full hike from Ásgarður.

However, this road is extremely rough and requires a capable 4×4 with good clearance. I recommend starting from Ásgarður unless you’re short on time or have mobility concerns.

BY BUS

A daily bus links Reykjavík, Gullfoss, Kerlingarfjöll, Varmahlíð, and Akureyri, running from mid-June through early September. This is an excellent option if you don’t have a 4×4 vehicle.

The bus journey from Reykjavík takes approximately 4 hours. Check current schedules and book in advance through bus operators like Reykjavik Excursions or Sterna.

BY GUIDED TOUR

Numerous tour operators offer day trips to Kerlingarfjöll from Reykjavík. Tours typically depart around 8 AM and include pick-up from Reykjavík, transportation in super jeeps, and approximately 2 hours of guided hiking in Hveradalir.

This is a great option if you want the expertise of a local guide and don’t want to worry about driving F-roads yourself.

HIKING INSTRUCTIONS

PREPARATION AND SAFETY BRIEFING

Before starting your hike, stop at the information board near the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort. Study the trail map and current conditions.

The Hveradalir geothermal area has elevated protection status. Hikers must stay within marked trails at all times, bikes are not allowed, and dogs must be on a leash.

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNINGS:

Boiling hot springs can be hidden beneath the surface with unstable muddy banks
Never step off marked trails in geothermal areas
Weather is notoriously bad in these mountains, getting very cloudy and windy
Temperatures range from 2-20°C even in peak summer, and it’s common to encounter snow on trails or experience snowfall in mid-July
Always have offline maps as cell service doesn’t exist

ÁSGARÐUR TO HVERADALIR PASS (1 hour 45 minutes)

Start from the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort at Ásgarður (approximately 800m elevation). Cross the footbridge over the stream near the accommodation complex.

Follow signs for Trail 2 (Hveradalir). The trail is marked with blue trail posts throughout.

For the first kilometer, you’ll have the Ásgarðsá river on your left-hand side. The trail begins climbing gradually through stark highland terrain. It can feel monotonous at first, but trust me – the views improve dramatically.

The path zigzags upward through barren rocky landscape with scattered patches of hardy vegetation. Even in summer, you’ll likely need to cross patches of snow to continue along the trail.

As you gain elevation, look back periodically for stunning views of the resort nestled in the valley and the surrounding peaks rising beyond.

The trail continues ascending for approximately 4km toward the mountain pass beside Hveradalahnúkur peak. You’ll hike through the mountain pass along the slopes of Hveradalahnúkur.

The landscape here is beautifully desolate – a Mars-like terrain of rock, snow patches, and distant peaks. The sense of remoteness is palpable. When I hiked this section, we saw perhaps a dozen other people all day, despite it being peak season.

MOUNTAIN PASS TO HVERADALIR VALLEY (1 hour)

Once you arrive at the mountain pass, you’ll reach the rim above Hveradalir valley and begin descending to the canyon floor.

This is where the hike transforms from beautiful to absolutely spectacular.

From the rim, you’ll see the Hveradalir geothermal valley spread below – a riot of colors with orange, red, yellow, and white rhyolite mountains streaked with green vegetation and white snow. Steam rises from countless vents, creating an ethereal atmosphere.

The descent into Hveradalir requires caution. The clay can be extremely slippery, especially in wet conditions. There are wooden steps installed on the steepest sections, but the footing remains challenging.

Take your time on this descent. Use hiking poles if you have them, and test each step before committing your full weight.

As you descend, the otherworldly nature of Hveradalir becomes more apparent. The air fills with the distinctive smell of sulfur. You’ll hear the hissing of steam vents and the gurgling of boiling mud pots.

Once you reach the valley floor, you’ll cross a small bridge over the Ásgarðsá river.

EXPLORING HVERADALIR GEOTHERMAL AREA (1 hour)

Now you’re in the heart of Hveradalir, and this is where you should slow down and really absorb the landscape.

The trail splits here, and you can choose to go left or right around the valley – both routes eventually connect, forming a loop through the geothermal features.

Both trails lead you down into the heart of Hveradalir. I recommend going down the left trail and returning via the right trail, as this provides the best progression of views.

Walk slowly and carefully on the designated paths. Exercise extreme caution near fumaroles and geothermal ponds, as boiling hot springs can be hidden beneath the surface.

The colors here are simply unreal. The rhyolite mountains glow in shades of burnt orange and rust red. Yellow sulfur deposits coat the ground around steam vents. Bright green algae thrive in the warm streams. White snow caps the higher peaks, providing dramatic contrast.

I spent at least 45 minutes just photographing this area, and I could have stayed for hours. Every angle offers something new – a different arrangement of colors, another steaming vent, a pattern in the mineral deposits.

The geothermal features are incredibly active. You’ll see steam billowing from fumaroles, mud pots bubbling like witch’s cauldrons, and hot springs with water so clear you can see the colorful minerals lining their edges.

Remember: These features are extremely dangerous. The water can exceed 100°C (212°F), and the ground near them can be unstable. People have been seriously burned here. Stay on marked trails.

RETURN TO ÁSGARÐUR (1 hour 15 minutes)

After exploring Hveradalir, complete the loop and head back toward the mountain pass.

The ascent out of Hveradalir is steep and can be challenging, especially if conditions are muddy. Take breaks as needed – use them as excuses to turn around and admire the view.

Once you regain the rim above Hveradalir, take one last long look at this incredible landscape before beginning the descent back to Ásgarður.

The return journey follows the same route you came up. While it might feel anticlimactic compared to the geothermal valley, I found the descent peaceful and meditative. The changing light (if you’re hiking in the evening) casts the mountains in different colors.

The downhill is easier on the lungs but can be tough on the knees, especially over the rocky terrain. Again, hiking poles prove their worth here.

SHORTER ALTERNATIVE: HVERADALIR CIRCLE FROM UPPER PARKING

If you’re short on time or prefer a shorter hike, there’s a well-maintained 4-kilometer loop trail called Hveradalahringur (Hveradalir Circle) that can be completed in 1-2 hours.

This trail forms a loop between Hveradalir and Snorrahver, skirting the slopes of Mænir mountain at 1,335 meters.

To access this trail, drive the rough 3km road from Ásgarður to the upper parking area near the geothermal zone (4×4 with good clearance required).

The trail is now very well maintained with small steps installed on steeper sections, though wind can be extremely strong in this area.

A short snowfield crossing of about fifty meters adds adventure to the hike, but the path remains manageable overall.

This is an excellent option for families or those who want to experience Hveradalir’s magic without the longer trek from Ásgarður.

WHERE TO STAY

KERLINGARFJÖLL MOUNTAIN RESORT

The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort at Ásgarður is the only accommodation in the region and serves as the base for all hiking activities.

Facilities include:

Modern hotel rooms: 20 double rooms with private bathrooms (book far in advance)
Mountain huts: Traditional Icelandic mountain huts with shared facilities
Glamping cabins: 10 small independent chalets
Camping: Large campground with access to facilities
Restaurant: Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner with traditional Icelandic dishes
Guest kitchen: Fully equipped for self-catering

The resort is open year-round, though hiking season runs from June to September. In winter, it caters to snowmobilers and cross-country skiers.

IMPORTANT: This place is incredibly popular despite its remoteness. Book accommodation as early as possible – ideally several months in advance for peak summer season.

I camped here and loved the experience. Watching the midnight sun illuminate the peaks while sitting outside my tent with a hot drink was magical. The facilities were excellent for a remote highland location.

Website: www.kerlingarfjoll.is

CAMPING

The campground is spacious with:

Toilet and shower facilities
Covered cooking area
Freshwater supply
Stunning views of the surrounding peaks

Camping costs approximately 2,500 ISK per person per night (prices subject to change).

The campground can get busy in July and August, but we never felt crowded. The vastness of the landscape ensures everyone has space.

Weather warning: Kerlingarfjöll is one of the coldest places in Iceland, with daily summer temperatures often hovering around 5°C (41°F). Bring a warm sleeping bag rated for cold temperatures.

BEST TIME TO HIKE IN KERLINGARFJÖLL

The F-roads close down for winter in late September or early October, reopening in June. This defines the hiking season for Kerlingarfjöll.

Peak Season: July to Mid-August

Warmest weather (relatively speaking)
Longest days with near 24-hour daylight
Most reliable trail conditions
All facilities fully operational
Busiest period (though still far less crowded than popular sites like Landmannalaugar)

Shoulder Season: June & Late August to September

Even in early summer, expect greater presence of snow throughout the area
Fewer hikers
More unpredictable weather
Shorter days in September
Some facilities may operate on reduced schedules

I hiked in mid-July and experienced near-perfect conditions one day (sunny, 15°C) and then snow flurries the next morning. This illustrates the weather’s unpredictability.

Temperatures typically range from 2-20°C even in peak summer, and it’s not unusual to encounter snow on trails or experience snowfall in mid-July.

My recommendation: Aim for July or early August for the most stable conditions, but be prepared for anything weather-wise. Start your hike early in the day to avoid afternoon storms, which are common in the highlands.

WHAT TO TAKE ON THE HIKE

ESSENTIAL GEAR

Hiking Boots: Non-negotiable for this trail. You need excellent ankle support and grip for the rocky, potentially muddy terrain. Waterproof boots are ideal.

Hiking Poles: Absolutely worth bringing. They’re invaluable on the steep descent into Hveradalir and helpful on the long ascent to the pass.

Waterproof Jacket and Pants: Iceland’s weather is famously unpredictable. I carried full waterproofs even though it was sunny when I started, and I needed them by afternoon. Pack a quality waterproof jacket with a hood.

Warm Layers: Multiple warm layers are essential. I used a merino wool base layer, fleece mid-layer, and insulated jacket. The temperature can be 5°C at the trailhead and even colder at higher elevations with wind chill.

Gloves and Hat: Even in summer. When the wind picks up on the mountain pass, you’ll be grateful for these.

Sunglasses and Sunscreen: The sun is strong at this elevation, and UV reflects off snow patches. Protect your eyes and skin.

Navigation: Essential. Download offline maps to your phone (Maps.me works great), and consider bringing a physical map and compass. The area is prone to fog and hikers often lose their way.

FOOD AND WATER

Water: Bring at least 2 liters per person. There’s no reliable water source on the trail (you cannot drink from geothermal streams). I use a hydration bladder which makes it easy to drink regularly without stopping.

Food: Pack substantial snacks and lunch. There are no facilities on the trail. I brought sandwiches, trail mix, chocolate bars, and fruit.

Hot Drink: Consider a thermos with hot tea or coffee. There’s something special about having a warm drink while overlooking Hveradalir on a cold, windy day.

OTHER IMPORTANT ITEMS

First Aid Kit: Including blister treatment, pain relievers, and bandages.

Emergency Shelter: A lightweight emergency blanket or bivy bag could be lifesaving if you get caught in severe weather.

Headlamp: Even in summer, a headlamp is smart to carry in case you’re out later than expected.

Fully Charged Phone: For navigation and emergencies. Pack a portable charger.

Camera: You’ll want one! This is one of the most photogenic hikes in Iceland.

Trash Bag: Pack out everything you pack in. Leave no trace in this pristine environment.

Drone: Drones are currently permitted at Kerlingarfjöll (though regulations can change). This is an incredible location for aerial photography, though be mindful of wind conditions.

ADDITIONAL HIKING OPTIONS IN KERLINGARFJÖLL

Beyond the main Hveradalir hike, Kerlingarfjöll offers numerous other trails:

SNÆKOLLUR SUMMIT HIKE

This is the most rewarding hidden hike of Kerlingarfjöll, climbing to Snækollur, the highest peak at 1,428 meters. This challenging 5-6 hour hike is only for fit, experienced hikers.

The summit offers breathtaking 360-degree views across the highlands, with glaciers visible in every direction on clear days.

RING ROUTE (HRINGBRAUTIN)

This is a full 3-day trek that explores every corner of Kerlingarfjöll, with two mountain huts along the way eliminating the need to pack a tent.

This multi-day adventure is perfect for serious hikers wanting to truly immerse themselves in the wilderness.

ÁSGARÐSFJALL

Ásgarðsfjall forms the backdrop to the hotel and campsite. The hike up is relatively easy and short, with no steep sections.

This is an excellent option for an evening hike after arriving or for those wanting a gentler walk.

PRACTICAL TIPS AND ADVICE

Check Conditions Before You Go

Road conditions: www.road.is
Weather forecast: www.vedur.is
Safety warnings: www.safetravel.is

Respect the Environment

Stay within marked trails at all times, as vegetation around geothermal areas is extremely sensitive to erosion
Pack out all trash
Don’t disturb geological features or remove rocks/minerals
Give wildlife space if encountered

Photography Tips

Golden hour (early morning or late evening) provides the best light on the colorful mountains
Bring a wide-angle lens to capture the expansive vistas
A polarizing filter helps with glare from snow and reduces haze
Protect your camera from steam and moisture in Hveradalir

The Orange Soil Problem The orange rhyolite soil in Hveradalir will stain your shoes – at best they’ll just be very dirty. Wear hiking boots you don’t mind getting stained, not your pristine white sneakers.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

Kerlingarfjöll combines beautifully with other highlands and Golden Circle attractions:

Hveravellir (45km north on F35): Another incredible geothermal area with a natural hot pot where you can bathe. This makes an excellent stop if you’re driving the full Kjölur route.

Gullfoss (90km south): Iceland’s most famous waterfall is the gateway to the highlands from the south.

Geysir (100km south): The original geyser and Strokkur’s regular eruptions.

Þingvellir National Park (120km south): UNESCO World Heritage site where you can walk between tectonic plates.

Landmannalaugar (accessible via different F-roads): Similar colorful rhyolite mountains and excellent hiking. Often compared to Kerlingarfjöll but usually more crowded.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Hiking in Kerlingarfjöll ranks among my absolute favorite experiences in Iceland. While places like Landmannalaugar and the Laugavegur Trail receive more attention, Kerlingarfjöll offers a similar (some would say superior) landscape with far fewer crowds.

The combination of dramatic highlands terrain, colorful rhyolite mountains, active geothermal features, and true remoteness creates something special. Standing in Hveradalir with steam rising around you, mountains glowing in shades of orange and red, and perhaps a patch of fresh snow at your feet – it’s a moment that stays with you.

Yes, getting here requires effort. The F-roads demand respect and careful driving. The weather is unpredictable and can be harsh. The trail has challenging sections. But these “difficulties” are precisely what keeps this place special. This is adventure travel in its truest sense.

If you’re willing to venture beyond Iceland’s most accessible attractions, Kerlingarfjöll will reward you with one of the most spectacular hikes in the entire country.

The earth is alive here, breathing steam, bubbling with geothermal energy, and painted in colors that seem almost impossible. It’s Iceland at its raw, volcanic, breathtaking best.

Pack your warmest layers, charge your camera batteries, and prepare yourself for one of the most otherworldly hiking experiences on Earth.

Have you hiked in Kerlingarfjöll? I’d love to hear about your experience in the comments below. Did you encounter any challenges? What was your favorite part of the trail?