How To Hike the Torres del Paine W Trek (Map & Instructions)

This legendary trek takes you through Chilean Patagonia’s most spectacular landscapes, from granite towers to turquoise lakes and thundering glaciers. It’s an unforgettable journey through one of the world’s last true wilderness areas.

The Torres del Paine W Trek is a bucket-list hike that winds through three dramatic valleys in Torres del Paine National Park. Each valley reveals a different side of Patagonia’s raw beauty: the iconic granite towers rising above glacial lakes, the hanging glacier of the French Valley, and the massive ice wall of Grey Glacier.

This is Chilean Patagonia at its most dramatic. The trail traces a distinctive “W” shape across the landscape, taking you deep into valleys carved by ancient ice, past turquoise lakes fed by glacial meltwater, and beneath peaks that seem to scrape the Patagonian sky.

I’ve walked this trail twice now—once in March 2023 during peak season and again in November 2024 during the shoulder season—and each time, I fell more deeply in love with this wild corner of the world. There’s something magical about carrying everything you need on your back and spending days immersed in landscapes that feel utterly untouched.

The trek typically takes 4-5 days, covering approximately 70-80 kilometers of well-maintained trails. You’ll stay in refugios (mountain huts) or designated campsites each night, where you can enjoy hot meals, warm showers, and the camaraderie of fellow hikers from around the globe.

In this comprehensive guide, I’ve covered everything you need to know about hiking the W Trek, including how to get to the trailhead, detailed day-by-day instructions, booking information, and essential gear recommendations.

TORRES DEL PAINE W TREK OVERVIEW

Start: Hotel Las Torres / Refugio Torre Central (East-to-West) OR Paine Grande (West-to-East)
Finish: Paine Grande (East-to-West) OR Hotel Las Torres (East-to-West)
Distance: 70-80 km / 43-50 miles
Duration: 4-5 days
Elevation gain: Approximately 3,500 meters cumulative
Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

The W Trek is challenging but achievable for anyone with reasonable fitness. I wouldn’t call it a casual walk—some sections are genuinely tough—but you don’t need mountaineering skills or technical climbing experience.

The trek can be hiked in either direction. Most people go east-to-west, starting at Hotel Las Torres and finishing at Paine Grande, saving the dramatic sunrise at the base of the towers for the second morning. However, hiking west-to-east means you finish with that iconic tower view, which creates an unforgettable finale.

I hiked east-to-west on my first trip and loved the way the difficulty built gradually. The opening day to Refugio Chileno is relatively gentle, giving you time to adjust before the big climb to Base Torres on day two.

The trail is extremely well-marked throughout, with clear signage at every junction. You’ll encounter rocky sections, river crossings on sturdy bridges, and some steep climbs, but nothing that requires special equipment beyond good hiking boots and trekking poles.

My first trip took 5 days with 4 nights, and I spent about 7-8 hours hiking each day, including breaks for photos, snacks, and simply absorbing the overwhelming beauty of the landscape. On my second trip, I pushed through in 4 days and found it more intense but still manageable.

TORRES DEL PAINE W TREK MAP

Below is the route map showing the classic east-to-west W Trek itinerary with all refugios and campsites marked along the trail.

The trek starts at Hotel Las Torres (marked at the eastern end) and finishes at Paine Grande (marked at the western end), with a catamaran crossing back to Pudeto.

Key landmarks include:

Base Torres: The iconic granite towers viewpoint
Valle del Francés: French Valley with its hanging glacier
Glacier Grey: Massive glacier terminus and lookout points

For physical maps, I recommend: JLM Mapa Trekking Torres del Paine or Kompass 5522 – Torres del Paine.

For digital navigation, download Maps.me with the Chile/Patagonia region before you arrive (there’s minimal cell signal in the park). Gaia GPS is excellent if you want elevation profiles and detailed tracking.

GETTING TO TORRES DEL PAINE

The gateway town for the W Trek is Puerto Natales, located about 2.5 hours south of the park entrance. You’ll need to arrange transportation from Puerto Natales to the park, and most hikers take a bus to the eastern entrance at Laguna Amarga.

FROM PUERTO NATALES

By Bus: Regular buses run from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine daily during the hiking season (October-April). Companies like Bus-Sur and Buses Gómez operate these routes.

Schedule: Buses typically depart between 7:00 AM and 8:30 AM
Cost: Approximately 8,000-10,000 CLP one-way
Duration: 2.5 hours to Laguna Amarga entrance

From Laguna Amarga, you’ll need to take a shuttle bus to Hotel Las Torres (the eastern trailhead). This shuttle costs about 3,000 CLP and takes 30 minutes.

By Private Transfer: If you’re hiking with a group, private transfers can be cost-effective and more convenient. They pick you up at your accommodation and drop you at the trailhead.

PARK ENTRANCE

You must book your park entrance ticket online in advance at the official CONAF website. They no longer accept cash payments at the entrance.

Cost: Varies by season and length of stay (typically 35,000-42,000 CLP for foreigners)
Required: Download your QR code in Puerto Natales while you have internet
Note: You may need to show your passport at the entrance

BOOKING ACCOMMODATION

This is arguably the most critical part of planning your W Trek. You must book all accommodation in advance—wild camping is not permitted, and showing up without reservations means you won’t be allowed to hike.

I learned this the hard way during my planning phase. In August 2024, I tried to book for January 2025 and found most campsites and refugios were already fully booked. Plan at least 6-8 months ahead for peak season (December-February).

Two companies manage all accommodation along the W Trek:

Vertice Patagonia (manages the western section including Paine Grande, Grey, and Los Cuernos)
Las Torres (manages the eastern section including Central, Chileno)

You’ll need to book through both companies’ websites separately. Alternatively, TorresHike.com can show availability across both operators and lets you book everything in one place, saving considerable time and frustration.

ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS

Refugios: Mountain huts with shared dormitory rooms (6-8 beds), hot showers, and meals included. More expensive but comfortable after long hiking days.

Campsites: Designated camping areas with facilities including bathrooms, showers, and cooking areas. You can rent equipment or bring your own.

I stayed in refugios on my first trek and found them absolutely worth the extra cost. After 8 hours of hiking, having a warm bed, hot meal, and social atmosphere was wonderful. On my second trip, I camped and loved the immersive experience, though packing up wet gear in Patagonian weather was challenging.

DETAILED HIKING INSTRUCTIONS

Here’s the classic 5-day, east-to-west itinerary. This is the route I followed on my first trek, and I recommend it for first-timers.

DAY 1: HOTEL LAS TORRES TO REFUGIO CHILENO (2-3 hours)

After checking in at the Welcome Center near Laguna Amarga, catch the shuttle to Hotel Las Torres, where the trail officially begins.

This opening day is intentionally gentle—a warm-up for the challenges ahead. The trail follows the Ascencio Valley northward, meandering through lenga forest with glimpses of the towers above.

The path is wide and well-maintained as it gradually climbs through mixed forest. You’ll cross several streams on sturdy wooden bridges and pass through clearings with views of the surrounding peaks.

After about 2 hours of steady but manageable hiking, you’ll reach Refugio Chileno (1,800m), nestled in the forest at the base of the final ascent to Base Torres.

This is where you’ll spend your first night. Use the afternoon to rest, explore the area, and mentally prepare for tomorrow’s big day. I spent hours just sitting outside the refugio, watching the light change on the mountains.

DAY 2: REFUGIO CHILENO TO BASE TORRES AND BACK (8-10 hours round trip)

Set your alarm early—3:30 AM if you want to catch sunrise at Base Torres, or 6:00 AM for a more civilized start. This is the most challenging and spectacular day of the entire trek.

From Refugio Chileno, the trail climbs steeply through the last section of forest before emerging into a boulder field. This is where the real work begins.

For the next 45 minutes to 1 hour, you’ll scramble up a massive pile of granite boulders. There’s no single “path”—just orange markers painted on rocks guiding you upward. Use your hands frequently, watch your footing, and take it slow.

The scramble is steep and requires concentration, but it’s not technical climbing. Just be cautious, especially if the rocks are wet or icy.

After this brutal ascent, the landscape opens dramatically into a rocky cirque, and suddenly you see it: a turquoise glacial lake with three massive granite towers rising 1,000 meters straight up from the water.

Mirador Las Torres (Base Torres) sits at approximately 900 meters, and the view is absolutely worth every step. The Torres Sur, Central, and Norte stand like sentinels, their vertical walls glowing pink and orange at sunrise.

I sat there for over an hour on my first visit, completely mesmerized. The scale is difficult to comprehend until you’re standing there, dwarfed by these ancient giants.

After soaking in the views, return the way you came. The descent is tough on the knees—those boulders are even trickier going down.

You’ll arrive back at Refugio Chileno exhausted but exhilarated. From there, continue to Refugio Los Cuernos (approximately 3 hours), following the trail as it contours around the base of the mountains.

The path offers stunning views of Lake Nordenskjöld’s incredible turquoise waters and the distinctive “horns” of Los Cuernos peaks.

DAY 3: REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS TO REFUGIO PAINE GRANDE (4-5 hours)

Today is a relatively easier day, giving your legs some recovery time. The trail continues westward along the northern shore of Lake Nordenskjöld.

This section showcases Patagonia’s diverse landscapes—grassy plains, patches of forest, and constant mountain views. The trail is fairly flat with gentle undulations.

You’ll pass the turnoff to Campamento Italiano (Italian Camp), which sits at the entrance to the French Valley. This is where you’ll drop your main pack tomorrow before hiking up the valley.

Continue to Refugio Paine Grande (150m), the largest refugio on the W Trek, situated on the shores of Lake Pehoé with views across to the Paine Massif.

This refugio has a buzzing atmosphere as it’s a crossroads for hikers doing both the W Trek and the O Circuit. I enjoyed meeting hikers from all over the world, sharing stories over dinner.

DAY 4: PAINE GRANDE TO VALLE DEL FRANCÉS TO REFUGIO PAINE GRANDE (8-9 hours round trip)

Another early start for what many consider the trek’s most spectacular day. Retrace your steps from yesterday and drop your main pack at Campamento Italiano.

Carrying just a daypack with water and snacks, head north up the Valle del Francés (French Valley). The trail climbs steadily through southern beech forest before emerging into the valley proper.

As you gain elevation, the views become increasingly dramatic. Ahead, the Glaciar Francés hangs precariously on the mountainside, regularly calving massive chunks of ice that crash down with thunderous roars.

Continue climbing to Mirador Británico (British Viewpoint), roughly 2.5 hours from Campamento Italiano. This is where the full majesty of the French Valley reveals itself.

You’re surrounded by granite spires: the Cathedral, the Sword, the Mask, and the entire Paine Massif forms an amphitheater around you. To the south, you can see all the way back to the Torres.

I spent over an hour here on both my trips, just spinning around and trying to take it all in. The glacier creaks and groans, blocks of ice tumble down—it feels impossibly wild and alive.

Return to Campamento Italiano, collect your pack, and hike back to Refugio Paine Grande.

DAY 5: PAINE GRANDE TO GREY GLACIER LOOKOUT AND EXIT (6-7 hours)

The final day takes you west to see the third of the trek’s major highlights: Grey Glacier.

The trail heads northwest from Paine Grande, climbing through forest and across rocky sections. After about 3 hours, you’ll reach Refugio Grey, situated right on the shore of Grey Lake.

From the refugio, continue another hour to the Grey Glacier lookout, where you’ll witness one of South America’s most impressive glaciers. The massive wall of ice stretches across the horizon, impossibly blue and constantly shifting.

I watched huge chunks calve off and crash into the lake, sending waves across the water. It’s a humbling reminder of the power and permanence of these ice rivers.

After absorbing this final spectacular view, return to Paine Grande. From there, you’ll catch the catamaran across Lake Pehoé to Pudeto (approximately 30 minutes), where buses wait to return hikers to Puerto Natales.

REFUGIOS ON THE ROUTE

The refugios along the W Trek are far more than just places to sleep—they’re social hubs where hikers from around the world gather to share stories, compare blisters, and celebrate making it through another day.

REFUGIO CHILENO

Located in the lenga forest at the base of the towers, this refugio is perfectly positioned for the Base Torres climb. The dormitory rooms are comfortable, and the communal dining area has a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

They serve hearty meals starting with breakfast at 6:00 AM (crucial for early tower risers) and dinner around 7:00 PM.

REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS

This is the most dramatically situated refugio on the eastern section, perched between Lake Nordenskjöld and the towering Cuernos peaks. The views from the dining room are sensational.

I particularly loved having coffee on the deck in the evening, watching the sunset paint the horns in shades of pink and gold.

REFUGIO PAINE GRANDE

The largest and busiest refugio, Paine Grande serves as the western hub of the W Trek. It can accommodate over 100 guests between the dormitories and camping areas.

The refugio has a well-stocked shop for last-minute supplies, a large dining hall, and surprisingly good wifi (for a mountain hut in Patagonia!). The location on Lake Pehoé is stunning, especially at sunrise.

REFUGIO GREY

Set right on Grey Lake with front-row views of the glacier, this refugio is an excellent base for exploring the western section. They offer box lunches for day hikers and serve traditional Chilean dishes.

The newly renovated facilities include comfortable rooms and excellent showers—much appreciated after days on the trail.

BEST TIME TO HIKE THE W TREK

The official hiking season runs from October to April, with the best conditions typically from late November through March.

Peak Season (December-February): Warmest weather, longest daylight hours, and everything is fully open. However, trails are crowded, prices are highest, and accommodation books out 6-8 months in advance.

Shoulder Season (October-November, March-April): Fewer crowds, lower prices, and the possibility of better weather (September and October can be surprisingly mild). Some facilities may have reduced services, and weather is more unpredictable.

I hiked in early March during my first trip and had near-perfect conditions—sunny days, minimal wind, and reasonable crowds. My November trek was windier and colder but felt more wild and adventurous.

Winter (May-September): Most facilities close, and a certified guide is required for any trekking. However, if you’re experienced and want the park virtually to yourself, winter trekking with a professional guide offers an extraordinary experience.

WHAT TO TAKE ON THE TREK

Hiking Boots: Essential for the rocky, uneven terrain. I use sturdy, waterproof boots with excellent ankle support. Break them in thoroughly before the trek.

Trekking Poles: I initially skeptical, but trekking poles made an enormous difference, especially on the Base Torres scramble and during descents. They save your knees and provide stability on loose rocks.

Waterproofs: Patagonia’s weather changes in minutes. I always carried a waterproof jacket and pants, even on sunny mornings. Rain is common, especially in the afternoons.

Layering System: Temperatures vary dramatically throughout the day. I typically wore a base layer, insulating mid-layer, and windproof outer layer. A warm beanie and gloves are essential.

Sun Protection: Even on cloudy days, Patagonian sun is intense. Bring high-SPF sunscreen, lip balm, and sunglasses.

Hydration System: I use a 3-liter hydration pack, which makes drinking water effortless while hiking. Stream water is generally safe to drink, but I always use purification tablets.

Headlamp: Essential for early morning tower hikes or evening bathroom trips.

Backpack: A 40-50 liter pack is ideal. If staying in refugios, you don’t need camping equipment, so you can pack lighter.

Maps and Navigation: Download offline maps on Maps.me or Gaia GPS. While trails are well-marked, having navigation backup is wise.

Camera: The photographic opportunities are endless. Bring extra batteries—cold weather drains them quickly.

Drones: Drones are permitted in Torres del Paine with proper authorization from CONAF. The aerial perspective of the landscape is breathtaking.

FINAL THOUGHTS

The Torres del Paine W Trek is one of those rare experiences that exceeds even sky-high expectations. Yes, it’s challenging. Yes, the weather can be brutal. Yes, the logistics are complicated and expensive.

But standing at the base of those towers at sunrise, watching glaciers calve into impossibly blue lakes, and spending days completely immersed in one of Earth’s last wild places—it changes you.

I’ve hiked in the Alps, the Himalayas, and mountain ranges across three continents, and Patagonia still stands apart. There’s something raw and powerful about this landscape that gets under your skin.

If you’re considering the W Trek, my advice is simple: do it. Plan carefully, train properly, pack smart, and prepare for anything weather-wise. Then let yourself be swept away by the overwhelming beauty of Chilean Patagonia.

The towers will be waiting.