Kazakhstan Road Trip: Epic One-Week Itinerary Through the Stans!

Kazakhstan is an extraordinary destination for a Central Asian road trip. This detailed one-week Kazakhstan road trip itinerary covers the best places in this vast country that you can visit in 7-10 days.

Kazakhstan is the world’s largest landlocked country with an astonishing diversity of landscapes! Endless steppe roads stretch through dramatic canyons, turquoise mountain lakes, singing sand dunes, and futuristic cities that blend Soviet heritage with modern ambition. Therefore, going on a Kazakhstan road trip is by far the best way to explore this former Soviet republic.

With your own wheels, you will be able to explore the best places in Kazakhstan conveniently. Although some sights can be reached by public transport or organized tours, many of the most spectacular natural wonders are only accessible by car or 4WD vehicle.

Based on my experience exploring this incredible country, I put together this comprehensive one-week Kazakhstan road trip itinerary covering the futuristic cities of Astana and Almaty, the breathtaking mountain scenery of the Tian Shan, stunning canyon systems, and pristine alpine lakes. It also indicates distances traveled, provides an interactive map, and suggests places to stay in Kazakhstan.

Travel Planning Essentials:

Car rental tip 1: For Kazakhstan, I recommend checking Localrent or international platforms that work with reputable local suppliers. Roads in Kazakhstan can be challenging, so ensure you rent a reliable vehicle, preferably an SUV for mountain routes.
Car rental tip 2: Compare rates on Discovercars to find the best deals. You can save significantly by booking in advance and adding comprehensive insurance coverage.
Stay: I booked most of my accommodation through Booking.com, though guesthouses in remote areas often require direct contact.
Travel Insurance: Purchase reliable coverage at Heymondo or SafetyWing before your trip.
Check the best outdoor & adventure tours in Kazakhstan on Viator or GetYourGuide.

Summary of My Kazakhstan Road Trip Route

Day 1: Almaty – Arrival and City Exploration
Day 2: Big Almaty Lake and Medeu/Shymbulak
Day 3: Charyn Canyon and Kolsai Lakes
Day 4: Kolsai Lakes – Kaindy Lake – Return to Almaty
Day 5: Almaty to Astana (or fly) – Exploring the Capital
Day 6: Burabay National Park (Borovoye)
Day 7: Astana – Final Exploration and Departure

If I had 5 Days in Kazakhstan, my itinerary would include: Almaty – Big Almaty Lake – Charyn Canyon – Kolsai Lakes – Almaty.

If I had 10 Days in Kazakhstan, my itinerary would include: Almaty – Altyn Emel National Park – Charyn Canyon – Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes – Tamgaly Tas – Astana – Burabay – Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve.

Kazakhstan Road Trip Planning Tips

Renting a Car in Kazakhstan

Major car rental companies operate in Almaty and Astana (Nursultan). However, I strongly suggest comparing rates through aggregator websites. For mountain routes and off-road destinations like Charyn Canyon or Altyn Emel, an SUV or 4WD vehicle is highly recommended. Standard sedans can handle paved highways but struggle on gravel roads.

Important: Many rental companies in Kazakhstan require an International Driving Permit (IDP) alongside your regular license. Always check insurance coverage carefully, especially for gravel roads and national parks.

Driving in Kazakhstan

Driving is the best way to explore Kazakhstan’s diverse landscapes. However, be prepared for vastly different road conditions. Major highways connecting cities are generally in good condition, but rural and mountain roads can be unpaved, potholed, or washed out.

Kazakhstan’s enormous size means distances between attractions can be substantial. A 300-kilometer journey might take 5-6 hours due to road conditions and speed limits. Fuel stations are abundant in cities but sparse in remote areas – always fill up before heading into the countryside.

Driving Challenges:

Police checkpoints are common. Always carry your passport, registration documents, and IDP
Language barrier – road signs are often in Kazakh and Russian only
Wildlife on roads, especially at dawn and dusk
Extreme weather – summer heat and winter cold can be intense

Where to Stay During the Kazakhstan Road Trip

For this Kazakhstan road trip, I chose a mix of modern hotels in cities and guesthouses in rural areas. In Almaty and Astana, you’ll find plenty of accommodation options ranging from Soviet-era hotels to modern international chains. In mountain villages and near national parks, family-run guesthouses (often called “homestays”) provide authentic experiences.

Accommodation Booking: I used Booking.com for most reservations, but some rural guesthouses required WhatsApp contact or booking through local tour operators.

Parking: In cities, secure parking is essential. Most hotels offer parking, but street parking can be challenging. In rural areas, parking is rarely an issue.

Tip: Always book accommodation in advance during summer (July-August) when domestic tourism peaks. Many places offer flexible cancellation, which I always prioritize.

Here’s a Quick Summary of Where I Stayed:

Almaty – Mercure Almaty City Center (3 nights total) – excellent location near Panfilov Park
Kolsai Lakes Area – Kolsai Lakes Guesthouse (1 night) – simple but stunning mountain location
Astana – Radisson Hotel Astana (2 nights) – modern with great city views
Burabay – Rixos Borovoye Hotel (1 night) – resort-style accommodation

I booked all Kazakhstan accommodation through Booking.com. You can find more detailed reviews at the end of each day section.

What to Expect in Kazakhstan?

In Kazakhstan, you’ll discover a land of incredible contrasts. Experience the Soviet-era charm mixed with futuristic architecture in cities like Almaty and Astana. Marvel at the otherworldly landscapes of Charyn Canyon, often called Kazakhstan’s Grand Canyon. Swim in the ethereal turquoise waters of Big Almaty Lake surrounded by snow-capped Tian Shan peaks.

Trek through pristine alpine forests to reach the submerged forest of Kaindy Lake with its ghostly tree trunks rising from crystal waters. Witness the vast endless steppe, sing with the dunes at Altyn Emel, and taste authentic Central Asian cuisine including beshbarmak, lagman, and kumis (fermented mare’s milk if you’re brave!).

The Kazakh people are incredibly hospitable, proud of their nomadic heritage, and eager to share their culture. You’ll find a fascinating blend of Russian and Central Asian influences in language, food, and traditions.

How Many Days Do You Need in Kazakhstan?

Based on my experience, one week in Kazakhstan is the minimum to experience the highlights around Almaty and make it to Astana. With 10-14 days, you can explore more national parks, venture to the Altyn Emel singing dunes, visit the Tamgaly petroglyphs, or even extend to the Caspian Sea region.

In this post, I highlight the absolute must-see places for those with limited time. I also mention places I skipped and wish I’d had more time for.

Note: This itinerary is designed for those flying into Almaty and out of Astana (or vice versa). You can easily adjust if doing a round trip from one city.

When to Visit Kazakhstan?

The best time to visit Kazakhstan is May-June and September-October. These shoulder seasons offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and stunning natural scenery.

Summer (July-August) is peak season with the warmest weather, perfect for high-altitude lakes and mountain hiking. However, cities can be extremely hot (35-40°C), and popular spots get crowded with domestic tourists.

Spring (April-May) brings blooming wildflowers and flowing waterfalls, though some mountain roads may still be snow-blocked.

Autumn (September-October) offers golden foliage and crisp weather, ideal for photography.

Winter (November-March) is bitterly cold but perfect for winter sports near Almaty. Many mountain roads become impassable.

Budget for Your Road Trip in Kazakhstan

Kazakhstan is more affordable than Western Europe but pricier than neighboring Kyrgyzstan. However, costs have risen significantly in recent years. Here’s a rough breakdown:

Accommodation: $30-$60/night for mid-range hotels; $15-$30 for guesthouses
Meals: $20-$40/day depending on restaurant choices
Car Rental: $40-$80/day for an SUV (recommended for this itinerary)
Fuel: approximately $0.50/liter for petrol (2024 prices)
National Park Fees: $3-$8 per person per park

Kazakhstan One-Week Road Trip Itinerary Day by Day

For those wanting a comprehensive introduction to Kazakhstan’s highlights, here’s my day-by-day breakdown of the route I took during my week-long road trip.

Day 1: Almaty – Arrival and City Exploration

Distance covered: 20 KM (city exploration)
Total drive time: Variable (city traffic)
Overnight in: Almaty

Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city and former capital, is the perfect starting point for your road trip. Nestled at the foothills of the magnificent Tian Shan mountains, this green, vibrant city blends Soviet architecture with modern development and stunning natural backdrops.

I arrived at Almaty International Airport in the afternoon, picked up my rental SUV, and headed to my hotel in the city center. After settling in, I spent the rest of the day exploring Almaty’s main attractions.

Things to Do in Almaty

• Explore Panfilov Park and Zenkov Cathedral

Start your Almaty exploration at the beautiful Panfilov Park, a peaceful green space in the heart of the city. The star attraction here is the stunning Zenkov Cathedral (Ascension Cathedral), one of the world’s tallest wooden buildings. Built in 1907 without a single nail, this colorful Russian Orthodox cathedral survived a major earthquake and is truly a masterpiece of engineering.

The park also features the Memorial of Glory and Eternal Flame, commemorating Kazakh soldiers who died in World War II. It’s a popular spot for locals, especially in the evenings when families gather to stroll and children play.

USEFUL TIP: Visit early morning around 7-8 AM to photograph the cathedral in beautiful morning light without crowds. The golden hour before sunset is also magical when the cathedral’s pastel colors glow warmly.

• Visit the Green Bazaar (Zelenyy Bazaar)

Just a 10-minute walk from Panfilov Park, the Green Bazaar is a feast for the senses. This bustling market is where locals shop for fresh produce, dried fruits, nuts, spices, and traditional Kazakh delicacies.

I spent over an hour wandering through the colorful stalls, sampling local kurt (dried cheese balls), trying different varieties of honey, and bargaining for dried apricots and walnuts. The vendors are friendly and often offer free tastings. Don’t miss the meat and dairy section where you can try traditional horsemeat sausage (kazy) and kumis (fermented mare’s milk).

SHOPPING TIP: Bring cash (Kazakhstani Tenge) as many vendors don’t accept cards. Bargaining is expected but keep it friendly. Buy dried fruits and nuts here – they’re much cheaper than in tourist shops and make great snacks for your road trip.

• Walk Along Arbat Street (Zhybek Zholy)

Almaty’s pedestrian street, similar to Moscow’s Arbat, is perfect for an evening stroll. Lined with cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, and street performers, it has a lively atmosphere especially on weekends. I grabbed dinner at a traditional Kazakh restaurant here and tried beshbarmak (boiled meat with pasta) – Kazakhstan’s national dish.

• Take the Cable Car to Kok Tobe Hill

If time permits on your first day (or save this for your return to Almaty), take the cable car from the city center up to Kok Tobe Hill. From the top, you’ll get panoramic views of Almaty with the Tian Shan mountains as a dramatic backdrop. There’s also a small amusement park, restaurants, and the famous Beatles statue where locals love to take photos.

The cable car costs around $3-5 per person for a round trip. Go during sunset for the best views and photo opportunities.

PARKING TIP: Finding parking in central Almaty can be challenging. I recommend staying at a hotel with secure parking. Street parking is available but watch for signs and be prepared to pay attendants.

Where to Stay in Almaty?

I stayed at the Mercure Almaty City Center, which offered comfortable rooms, excellent service, and most importantly, secure underground parking for my rental car. The location was perfect – walking distance to Panfilov Park, Green Bazaar, and numerous restaurants.

Other good options include Rahat Palace Hotel for luxury, or Dostyk Hotel for mid-range comfort. For budget travelers, check out hostels in the Dostyk area.

Book your stay in Almaty on Booking.com

Day 2: Big Almaty Lake and Medeu/Shymbulak

Distance covered: 50 KM
Total drive time: 1 HR 30 MIN (one way)
Overnight in: Almaty

Day 2 is dedicated to exploring the stunning mountain scenery just outside Almaty. I woke up at 5:30 AM to catch sunrise at Big Almaty Lake – absolutely worth the early start!

BIG ALMATY LAKE

• Experience the Turquoise Jewel of the Tian Shan

Big Almaty Lake (BAL) is without a doubt one of the most beautiful alpine lakes I’ve ever seen. Situated at 2,511 meters above sea level, this stunning turquoise lake is surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks and changes color throughout the day depending on the light.

The 28-kilometer drive from Almaty takes about an hour on a decent but winding mountain road. The route passes through a restricted border zone (it’s close to the Kyrgyzstan border), so you’ll need to show your passport at a checkpoint. Foreign tourists are generally allowed, but confirm current regulations before going.

IMPORTANT: As of my visit, there’s a debate about access rules. Sometimes authorities restrict access or require permits. I recommend going early morning (before 8 AM) when there’s less enforcement, or hiring a local driver who knows the current situation.

I arrived at Big Almaty Lake around 6:45 AM and had the entire place to myself for nearly an hour. The mirror-like reflections of the surrounding peaks in the calm morning water were absolutely breathtaking. The lake’s vivid turquoise color comes from glacial meltwater carrying fine rock particles.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: Bring a polarizing filter to enhance the water’s turquoise color. The best light is early morning or late afternoon. Midday sun can wash out colors and create harsh shadows.

What You Need to Know:

No swimming is allowed (it’s a drinking water reservoir)
Weather can change rapidly – bring warm layers even in summer
Limited cell phone coverage
No facilities or restaurants at the lake
The road can be challenging after rain or snow

After spending about 2 hours at BAL, taking photos, and soaking in the incredible scenery, I headed back down the mountain toward my next stop.

MEDEU AND SHYMBULAK

• Visit the World’s Highest Skating Rink

On the way back from Big Almaty Lake, I made a detour to Medeu, home to the highest altitude ice skating rink in the world (1,691 meters). Even if you’re not skating, the setting is spectacular – surrounded by mountains with a massive dam wall as backdrop.

The complex also features a huge stairway with 842 steps leading up to a scenic viewpoint. Locals use it for training, and it’s become a popular fitness challenge. I climbed halfway up for photos before my legs reminded me I’d be doing more hiking later in the trip!

ENTRANCE FEE: Free to walk around the complex; skating rink access costs extra (around $5-10 depending on season).

• Continue to Shymbulak Ski Resort

Just 7 kilometers above Medeu lies Shymbulak, Kazakhstan’s premier ski resort. In summer, it transforms into a mountain adventure playground with hiking trails, mountain biking, and simply stunning Alpine scenery.

I took the gondola lift up to the mid-station (costs around $15 round trip) for incredible panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. At 3,200 meters elevation, the air is noticeably thinner but the views are spectacular. There are several hiking trails from the top station if you want to explore further.

USEFUL TIP: Even in July, it can be cool at the top – bring a jacket. The gondola operates year-round but check schedules as maintenance closures happen occasionally.

Where to Eat

After descending from the mountains, I was starving! I stopped at Tubeteika restaurant in Almaty for a late lunch. This place serves excellent traditional Kazakh and Central Asian cuisine. I highly recommend trying:

Lagman – hand-pulled noodles with meat and vegetables
Samsa – baked pastries filled with meat
Manti – steamed dumplings

The portions are huge and prices very reasonable (expect $8-15 per person for a full meal).

Day 3: Almaty to Charyn Canyon and Kolsai Lakes

Distance covered: 330 KM
Total drive time: 5 HRS (without stops)
Overnight in: Kolsai Lakes area

Day 3 marks the beginning of the real adventure as I left Almaty behind and headed east into Kazakhstan’s stunning canyon and lake country. This was the longest driving day of the trip, but every kilometer was worth it.

I left Almaty at 7 AM to make the most of the day. After stocking up on snacks and water at a supermarket, I headed out on the A-351 highway toward the Chinese border.

CHARYN CANYON

• Explore Kazakhstan’s “Grand Canyon”

About 200 kilometers east of Almaty lies one of Kazakhstan’s most spectacular natural wonders – Charyn Canyon. Often compared to Arizona’s Grand Canyon (though much smaller), this dramatic gorge stretches for over 150 kilometers along the Charyn River.

The main attraction is the Valley of Castles, where wind and water erosion have carved the red sandstone into bizarre formations resembling towers, castles, and animals. The canyon reaches depths of 150-300 meters, and the colors – ranging from pale yellow to deep red – are simply stunning.

THE DRIVE: The turnoff to Charyn Canyon from the main highway is well-marked. From there, it’s about 10 kilometers on a decent gravel road to the canyon rim parking area. My SUV handled it easily, but I saw a few sedans struggling.

ENTRANCE FEE: 700 Tenge (approximately $1.50) per person to enter Charyn National Park.

I arrived at Charyn Canyon around 10:30 AM. Despite it being summer high season, there were maybe 20 other tourists – nothing compared to crowds at more famous canyons worldwide.

• Hike Down into the Valley of Castles

From the parking area, a steep but well-maintained trail descends about 100 meters into the canyon. The hike down takes 15-20 minutes, and while not technically difficult, it’s quite steep in places. Take your time and watch your footing on loose rocks.

Once at the bottom, you can walk through the Valley of Castles on a relatively flat trail that winds between the towering rock formations. The scale is impressive – some formations rise over 60 meters high. The shapes are incredible, and I spent over an hour exploring, photographing, and marveling at nature’s artistry.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: The best light for photography is early morning (before 10 AM) or late afternoon (after 4 PM) when the sun illuminates the canyon walls with warm golden light. Midday light can be harsh, but the shadows create dramatic contrasts.

IMPORTANT TIPS:

Bring plenty of water – it gets extremely hot in summer (40°C+)
Wear good hiking shoes with ankle support
Sun protection is essential – hat, sunscreen, sunglasses
There’s a small café at the parking area but overpriced; bring your own food
Cell phone coverage is spotty
The Charyn River at the bottom is usually shallow enough to wade across

I spent about 2.5 hours at Charyn Canyon total – 1 hour hiking down and through the valley, another hour exploring and photographing, then 30 minutes to climb back up (it’s quite a workout!).

DRIVING TO KOLSAI LAKES

After leaving Charyn Canyon around 1 PM, I continued east toward the Kolsai Lakes. This section of the journey was absolutely beautiful – rolling hills, small Kazakh villages, and increasingly dramatic mountain scenery as I approached the Tian Shan foothills.

The road quality varies from smooth asphalt near the highway to bumpy gravel sections closer to Kolsai. My SUV was definitely the right choice for this route.

I stopped briefly in the village of Zharkent for lunch at a local café. The food was simple but delicious – plov (pilaf rice with meat and vegetables) and hot tea. The locals were curious and friendly, though not many spoke English.

USEFUL TIP: Zharkent has the last reliable fuel stations before Kolsai Lakes. Fill up here! There are small villages along the way but fuel availability isn’t guaranteed.

The final 60 kilometers to Kolsai Lakes took nearly 2 hours due to road conditions and incredible scenery that kept making me stop for photos. The landscape transitions from dry steppe to lush green valleys with rushing rivers and pine forests.

I arrived at Kolsai Lakes around 5 PM, checked into my guesthouse, and had just enough time to walk to the lake shore before dinner. The sight of the pristine turquoise lake surrounded by pine forests and mountain peaks was the perfect reward after a long day of driving.

Where to Stay Near Kolsai Lakes

Accommodation options near Kolsai Lakes are limited to guesthouses run by local families. I stayed at Kolsai Lakes Guesthouse – a simple but clean family-run place about 2 kilometers from the lake.

The room was basic (shared bathroom, no hot shower), but the hospitality was incredible. The family prepared a huge traditional dinner with homemade bread, fresh vegetables from their garden, and mutton stew. Breakfast was included – eggs, bread, jam, and tea.

BOOKING TIP: Many guesthouses here don’t appear on Booking.com. I found mine through a local tour operator’s website and contacted them via WhatsApp. Book in advance during summer as options fill up quickly.

Other options include:

Camping – there are designated camping areas near the lakes (bring all your own equipment)
Yurts – some families rent traditional nomadic yurts for an authentic experience

Cost: Expect to pay $20-40 per person including meals.

Day 4: Kolsai Lakes and Kaindy Lake – Return to Almaty

Distance covered: 320 KM
Total drive time: 6 HRS (including mountain roads)
Overnight in: Almaty

Day 4 was dedicated to exploring two of Kazakhstan’s most stunning alpine lakes before making the long journey back to Almaty. I woke up at 6 AM to catch the early morning light at Kolsai Lake.

KOLSAI LAKES

• Hike to the First Kolsai Lake

The Kolsai Lakes system consists of three alpine lakes at different elevations in the Northern Tian Shan mountains. The first and most accessible lake (Kolsai-1) sits at 1,818 meters above sea level and is surrounded by dense Tian Shan spruce forests.

From my guesthouse, it was only a 15-minute walk to reach the lake shore. The morning was absolutely magical – the perfectly still water created mirror reflections of the surrounding mountains and forests. The only sounds were birds singing and the occasional splash of fish breaking the surface.

ENTRANCE FEE: 800 Tenge (approximately $1.80) per person to enter Kolsai Lakes National Park.

• Optional: Hike to the Second Kolsai Lake

For those with more time and energy, the second lake (Kolsai-2) is accessible via a 6-kilometer hiking trail that gains about 600 meters in elevation. The hike takes 3-4 hours one way and is moderately strenuous but absolutely stunning.

I decided to hike just the first 2 kilometers of this trail to get higher viewpoints of the first lake. The trail winds through beautiful pine forests with occasional clearings offering spectacular mountain vistas. Even this short section was worth it – the views back down to Kolsai-1 were incredible.

HIKING TIP: If you plan to hike to the second lake, start very early (6-7 AM) to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer. Bring plenty of water, snacks, and warm layers as it gets significantly cooler at higher elevations.

What You Can Do at Kolsai Lakes:

Kayaking – you can rent kayaks/boats at the first lake (around $10-15 per hour)
Horse riding – local families offer guided horse treks to upper lakes
Fishing – permit required but the lakes have rainbow trout
Swimming – brave souls can swim, but the water is glacial cold even in summer!
Photography – sunrise and sunset are absolutely magical

I spent about 3 hours total at Kolsai Lakes, returned to my guesthouse for a quick breakfast, packed up, and prepared for the next incredible destination.

KAINDY LAKE

• Discover the Submerged Forest

Kaindy Lake is one of the most unusual and photogenic places in all of Kazakhstan. Created by an earthquake-triggered landslide in 1911 that dammed the valley, this 400-meter-long lake is famous for the ghostly Tian Shan spruce trees that still stand in the water, their bare trunks rising up to 30 meters above the surface.

The lake sits at 2,000 meters elevation and is accessible via a rough 10-kilometer track from the main road near Saty village. This is where having an SUV or 4WD becomes essential – the road is extremely bumpy, rocky, and has several river crossings.

DRIVING TIP: The road to Kaindy Lake is rough! Drive slowly and carefully. After heavy rain, it can become impassable even for 4WD vehicles. Some tourists hire local drivers with Russian UAZ vehicles from Saty village (costs around $30-50 round trip).

I reached the parking area after a bone-rattling 45-minute drive. From there, it’s about a 1-kilometer walk through beautiful forest to reach the lake shore.

• The Ethereal Beauty of the Submerged Forest

Nothing quite prepares you for the first view of Kaindy Lake. The water is an otherworldly turquoise color (from limestone deposits), and the dead tree trunks rising from the water create a surreal, almost post-apocalyptic scene. It looks like something from a fantasy movie.

The lake is surrounded by living forest and rocky cliffs, with snow-capped peaks visible in the distance. The contrast between the vibrant turquoise water, the ghostly gray tree trunks, and the lush green forest is absolutely stunning.

I spent nearly 2 hours here, walking around the lake shore, photographing from every angle, and just sitting quietly to absorb the incredible atmosphere. The place has an almost spiritual quality – peaceful, mysterious, and hauntingly beautiful.

PHOTOGRAPHY PARADISE: Kaindy Lake is a photographer’s dream. The best time for photos is mid-morning to early afternoon when the sun illuminates the water and creates incredible colors. Bring a polarizing filter to cut reflections and enhance the turquoise water.

Swimming: Many people swim or snorkel in Kaindy Lake during summer. The water is crystal clear, and you can see the submerged tree trunks continuing deep underwater. However, it’s absolutely freezing – even in July it’s around 6°C! I dipped my feet in and that was enough for me.

IMPORTANT NOTES:

Entrance fee: 1,200 Tenge (approximately $2.70) per person
No facilities whatsoever – bring food, water, and toilet paper
Weather changes rapidly – bring warm, waterproof clothing
Cell phone coverage is non-existent
Bears inhabit the area – stay alert and don’t hike alone in early morning/evening

RETURN JOURNEY TO ALMATY

After reluctantly leaving Kaindy Lake around 1 PM, I began the long drive back to Almaty. The route retraced my path from the previous day – back through the mountain valleys, past Charyn Canyon (I didn’t stop again), and onto the main highway.

The drive took about 5 hours with short breaks for fuel and snacks. I arrived back in Almaty around 7 PM, returned to my same hotel (I had left some luggage there), and enjoyed a celebratory dinner at Gakku Restaurant, which serves modern takes on traditional Kazakh cuisine.

ALTERNATIVE OPTION: If you have an extra day, consider spending another night near Kolsai/Kaindy and exploring more hiking trails, or visiting the nearby village of Saty where you can experience rural Kazakh life. There’s also a small ethnographic museum worth checking out.

Day 5: Almaty to Astana – Exploring the Futuristic Capital

Distance covered: 1,200 KM
Total drive time: 14-16 HRS (I don’t recommend driving!)
Overnight in: Astana (2 consecutive nights)

IMPORTANT NOTE: I chose to fly from Almaty to Astana rather than drive. The distance is over 1,200 kilometers, and driving would take at least 14-16 hours on mostly flat, monotonous highway. Unless you have specific stops planned along the way, I strongly recommend flying.

ALMATY TO ASTANA: FLY OR DRIVE?

Flying:

Multiple daily flights (1.5 hours)
Costs around $50-100 depending on booking time
Air Astana and FlyArystan are the main carriers
You’ll need to return your Almaty rental car and rent another in Astana

Driving:

1,200+ kilometers of mostly straight highway through endless steppe
14-16 hours of monotonous driving
Few interesting stops along the way
Requires two very long driving days or an overnight stop
Can be dangerous due to driver fatigue

I flew Air Astana’s morning flight, which gave me almost a full day to explore Astana. I arranged a new rental car pickup at Astana airport through the same company I used in Almaty.

ARRIVING IN ASTANA (NUR-SULTAN)

Note on naming: The capital was renamed from Astana to Nur-Sultan in 2019, then changed back to Astana in 2022. You’ll see both names used interchangeably.

Astana is unlike any city I’ve visited. Built essentially from scratch in the vast Kazakh steppe after becoming the capital in 1997, it’s a showcase of futuristic architecture, ambitious urban planning, and Kazakhstan’s aspirations to be a modern, forward-looking nation.

The contrast with Almaty couldn’t be more dramatic. While Almaty is green, mountainous, and retains more Soviet character, Astana is flat, modern, and feels almost surreal – like a sci-fi movie set dropped into the middle of nowhere.

I picked up my rental car around 11 AM and drove to my hotel in the city center. The drive from the airport (about 20 kilometers) gives you a good introduction to Astana – wide boulevards, modern architecture, and an overall feeling of space and newness.

Things to Do and See in Astana

• Walk Along Nurzhol Boulevard

The heart of new Astana is Nurzhol Boulevard, a stunning 2-kilometer pedestrian avenue lined with modern buildings, fountains, and green spaces. This is where you’ll find most of the city’s iconic architecture.

I started my exploration here, walking from the Presidential Palace area toward the Bayterek Tower. The boulevard is beautifully landscaped and offers great views of the surrounding futuristic buildings.

• Climb Bayterek Tower – The Symbol of Astana

Bayterek Tower is Astana’s most recognizable landmark and absolute must-visit. This 97-meter-tall monument represents a Kazakh legend about a mythical tree of life and a magic bird of happiness. The golden sphere at the top symbolizes the egg the bird laid.

Take the elevator up to the observation deck inside the golden sphere for 360-degree views of Astana. The city’s ambitious architecture looks even more impressive from above – you can see the vast steppe stretching endlessly in all directions.

ENTRANCE FEE: 500 Tenge (approximately $1.10) – an absolute bargain for the experience.

USEFUL TIP: Visit late afternoon or early evening when the light is softer and the heat less intense. The observation deck can get crowded during peak times, especially weekends.

At the top, there’s a golden handprint allegedly representing the hand of President Nazarbayev. Locals place their hand in it and make a wish – it’s become a popular ritual.

• Marvel at Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center

Khan Shatyr is one of the world’s most unique shopping centers – a giant transparent tent designed by famous architect Norman Foster. At 150 meters tall, it’s the world’s largest tent structure.

Inside, you’ll find shops, restaurants, a cinema, and even an indoor beach resort with sand imported from the Maldives! It’s particularly impressive because the tent maintains a comfortable climate year-round, even when outside temperatures range from -40°C in winter to +40°C in summer.

I spent about an hour here, more impressed by the engineering than the shopping. The rooftop is translucent, so natural light floods in, creating a pleasant atmosphere.

• Visit the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation

Another Norman Foster design, this pyramid-shaped building is dedicated to religious understanding and renunciation of violence. It’s 62 meters tall and hosts various exhibitions and events.

The exterior is striking – a perfect pyramid covered in pale granite. You can take a guided tour of the interior (around 1,000 Tenge per person), which includes an opera hall, conference rooms, and exhibition spaces. The views from the top are excellent.

• Explore Hazret Sultan Mosque

Central Asia’s second-largest mosque (after Turkmenistan’s) is a stunning example of modern Islamic architecture. Completed in 2012, it can accommodate 10,000 worshippers and features beautiful traditional Central Asian design elements mixed with modern construction.

The interior is breathtaking – intricate tile work, massive chandeliers, and beautiful calligraphy. Non-Muslims are welcome outside prayer times, but dress modestly (women should cover shoulders and wear long skirts/pants; headscarves are provided at the entrance).

ENTRANCE: Free, but donations appreciated.

• Walk Around Ishim River Embankment

The Ishim River divides Astana into left and right banks. The embankment has been beautifully developed with walking and cycling paths, parks, and public art installations. It’s a great place to see locals relaxing, especially in the evening.

I walked a portion of the embankment at sunset – the golden light reflecting off the modern buildings and the river was absolutely beautiful. This is also where you get the best photos of the city skyline.

• Experience the National Museum of Kazakhstan

If you’re interested in history and culture, the National Museum is worth 2-3 hours. It’s enormous and covers everything from ancient archaeological finds to modern independence. The museum building itself is impressive – gleaming white marble with a distinctive blue-and-gold dome.

ENTRANCE FEE: 1,000 Tenge (approximately $2.20) for adults.

Highlights include:

Ancient artifacts from the Silk Road era
Traditional Kazakh yurts and nomadic lifestyle displays
Golden Warrior reconstruction – Kazakhstan’s most famous archaeological find
Modern history of independence

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: The best photos of Astana’s skyline are taken from:

Bayterek Tower observation deck
Ishim River embankment at sunset
The area around Khan Shatyr at blue hour
Hazret Sultan Mosque with the modern skyline behind it

Where to Eat in Astana

Astana has a surprisingly diverse food scene:

• Line Brew – Modern gastropub with excellent local craft beers and European-influenced menu. Great burgers and steaks.

• Satti Restaurant – Traditional Kazakh cuisine in a modern setting. Try the full tasting menu to sample various dishes.

• Alasha – Upscale Kazakh restaurant with elegant decor and excellent service. Pricier but worth it for special occasions.

• Food courts at Khan Shatyr or Mega Mall – Quick, affordable options including international chains and local fast food.

I had dinner at Satti Restaurant and tried several traditional dishes I hadn’t had yet:

Kuyrdak – fried offal with potatoes (sounds unappealing but actually delicious)
Baursaki – fried dough pieces, slightly sweet
Shubat – fermented camel milk (acquired taste!)

Where to Stay in Astana

I stayed at Radisson Hotel Astana, which offered excellent service, comfortable rooms, and a good location near the Ishim River. The views from upper floors are spectacular, especially at night when the city lights up.

Other good options:

The St. Regis Astana – Luxury option near government district
Rixos President Hotel – Upscale with great amenities
Ibis Astana – Budget-friendly, reliable chain hotel

PARKING TIP: Most hotels in Astana have secure parking. Street parking is available but can be confusing with signs in Kazakh/Russian. Hotel parking is worth the peace of mind.

Book your stay in Astana on Booking.com

Day 6: Burabay National Park (Borovoye)

Distance covered: 280 KM (round trip)
Total drive time: 3 HRS 30 MIN (one way)
Overnight in: Burabay or return to Astana

Day 6 took me north from Astana to one of Kazakhstan’s most beloved natural destinations – Burabay National Park, affectionately called the “Pearl of Kazakhstan.” This is where wealthy Kazakhs and Russians have been vacationing for over a century.

I left Astana around 8 AM for the approximately 250-kilometer drive north. The journey takes you through typical Kazakh steppe landscape – flat, seemingly endless grasslands with occasional small villages and farm settlements.

BURABAY NATIONAL PARK (BOROVOYE)

• Kazakhstan’s Lake District

Burabay is dramatically different from the surrounding flat steppe. Here, ancient granite rock formations rise unexpectedly from pine forests surrounding crystal-clear lakes. The park encompasses several lakes, with Lake Borovoye (also called Aul) being the largest and most popular.

The contrast is striking – after hours of driving through flat grassland, suddenly you’re surrounded by rocky hills covered in pine forests reflected in turquoise lakes. It feels almost impossible that such scenery exists in the middle of the steppe.

ENTRANCE FEE: 300 Tenge (approximately $0.70) per person to enter the national park.

• Lake Borovoye and Zhumbaktas Rock

The main attraction is Lake Borovoye itself – a beautiful body of water surrounded by pine forests and distinctive rock formations. The most famous is Zhumbaktas Rock (meaning “Mystery Rock”), which rises dramatically from the lake and changes appearance depending on your viewing angle – supposedly looking like a sphinx from one side and an old woman from another.

I parked near the main beach area and walked along the shore. Even in mid-summer, the water temperature was refreshingly cool. Many local families were swimming, picnicking, and renting paddle boats. The atmosphere was relaxed and holiday-like.

ACTIVITIES AT BURABAY:

Swimming – the lakes are clean and safe, much warmer than mountain lakes
Boat rentals – paddle boats, rowboats, and small motorboats available
Hiking – numerous trails through forests and to viewpoints
Rock climbing – the granite formations attract climbers
Photography – endless beautiful scenes

• Hike to Bolektau Mountain Viewpoint

For the best panoramic views of the area, I hiked up Bolektau Mountain. The trail starts near the sanatorium area and takes about 1.5-2 hours to reach the summit at 947 meters elevation.

The hike isn’t technically difficult but does involve some scrambling over rocks near the top. The reward is absolutely worth it – 360-degree views of all the surrounding lakes, forests, and rock formations stretching to the flat steppe beyond.

HIKING TIP: Start early to avoid the midday heat. Bring plenty of water as there are no facilities on the trail. The path is well-marked but wear good hiking shoes as it’s rocky in sections.

• Visit Lake Shchuchye (Pike Lake)

If you have time, drive to nearby Lake Shchuchye, considered by many to be even more beautiful than Borovoye. It’s smaller, quieter, and surrounded by dramatic cliffs and pine forests. The water here has an incredible emerald-green color.

The lake is about 15 kilometers from Borovoye village via decent roads. There’s a small beach area and hiking trails around the lake. I spent about an hour here and found it more peaceful than the busier main lake.

• Okzhetpes Rock Formation

Another iconic landmark in Burabay is Okzhetpes Rock – a 300-meter tall granite cliff that rises vertically from the steppe. Legend says a Kazakh warrior built it in one night to hide his beloved from enemies.

You can drive right to the base of the rock formation. There’s a short trail that goes partway up for better views. The sheer walls are impressive, and rock climbers often practice here.

USEFUL TIP: Burabay gets very crowded on summer weekends with tourists from Astana and Nur-Sultan. Visit on weekdays if possible for a more peaceful experience.

Where to Stay in Burabay

Burabay has numerous accommodation options ranging from Soviet-era sanatoriums to modern resorts. I stayed at Rixos Borovoye Hotel – a luxury resort with spa facilities, restaurants, and direct lake access.

The Rixos was definitely the highlight of my Burabay visit – beautifully maintained grounds, excellent food, and comfortable rooms. However, it’s pricey (around $150-200 per night).

Budget/Mid-range Options:

Sanatorium Shchuchinsk – Soviet-era but recently renovated, affordable
Hotel Altyn-Tumar – Mid-range with good location
Private guesthouses in Borovoye village – budget-friendly, family-run
Camping – permitted in designated areas with your own equipment

ALTERNATIVE: You can also visit Burabay as a day trip from Astana and return the same evening. It’s a long day but doable if you don’t want to change hotels.

Book your stay in Burabay on Booking.com

Food in Burabay

Most hotels and sanatoriums have their own restaurants. In Borovoye village, there are several cafes and restaurants serving traditional Kazakh food:

• Restaurant Zhumbaktas – Located near the main beach, serves decent local food with lake views • Various shashlik stands – Grilled meat skewers along the beach area, inexpensive and tasty

I had dinner at my hotel but grabbed lunch at a simple café in the village – fresh grilled fish from the lake with vegetables and bread was perfect after a morning of hiking.

Day 7: Return to Astana – Final Exploration and Departure

Distance covered: 250 KM
Total drive time: 3 HRS
Overnight in: Astana (if evening flight) or depart

On the final day of my Kazakhstan road trip, I woke early in Burabay to catch sunrise over Lake Borovoye – the calm morning water created perfect mirror reflections of the surrounding cliffs and forests. It was a peaceful end to an incredible week.

After breakfast, I packed up and began the drive back to Astana around 9 AM. The journey retraced my route from the previous day through the steppe landscape.

FINAL HOURS IN ASTANA

I arrived back in Astana around 12:30 PM, which gave me time for some final exploration before my evening flight.

• Last-minute Shopping

If you want souvenirs, Astana has several good options:

Mega Silk Way Mall – Large shopping center with everything from international brands to local crafts. There’s a section dedicated to Kazakh handicrafts – felt products, traditional jewelry, and local food items.

I bought:

Traditional felt slippers (tyapochki)
Local honey and dried apricots
A small felt wall hanging with traditional Kazakh patterns
Kurt (dried cheese balls) – they last for months and make unique gifts

• Final Meal

For my last meal in Kazakhstan, I returned to Alasha Restaurant for a proper farewell feast. I ordered:

Beshbarmak (one more time – it’s addictive!)
Baursaki with honey
Kumis (I still hadn’t acquired the taste, but I tried!)

The service was excellent, and they even gave me a complimentary dessert when I mentioned it was my last day.

RETURNING THE RENTAL CAR

I returned my rental car to the airport office around 4 PM for my 7 PM flight. The return process was smooth – they did a quick inspection, confirmed no damage, and refunded my deposit within a few days.

RENTAL CAR TIP: Take photos of the car from all angles when picking up and returning. This protects you from any disputes about pre-existing damage. Also, return the car with a full tank to avoid inflated refueling charges.

What I Skipped and What I Would Suggest Skipping

• Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve – Located south of Astana, this UNESCO site is famous for pink flamingos. However, visiting requires a full day, the roads are difficult, and flamingo viewing is seasonal (best May-September). Skip unless you’re a serious birder with extra time.

• Altyn Emel National Park – Home to the famous “Singing Dunes” and other geological wonders. I really wanted to visit but it would have added 2-3 days to the itinerary and requires 4WD and camping equipment or organized tours. Definitely on my list for next time!

• Turkistan – Ancient city in southern Kazakhstan with impressive Yasawi Mausoleum. Beautiful and historically significant, but it’s 1,000+ kilometers from Almaty in the opposite direction. Would need a separate trip or much more time.

• Baikonur Cosmodrome – The world’s oldest and largest space launch facility. Visiting requires special permits arranged well in advance and organized tours. Not feasible for independent travelers on a short trip.

• The Caspian Sea coast – Western Kazakhstan bordering the Caspian requires significant extra time and isn’t particularly scenic compared to the mountains and lakes in the east.

Final Kazakhstan Road Trip Tips

Practical Advice

• Language Barrier Russian and Kazakh are the main languages. English is limited outside major hotels and tourist areas. Download Google Translate offline, learn basic Russian phrases, and have your hotel addresses written in Cyrillic.

• Money Matters Kazakhstani Tenge (KZT) is the currency. ATMs are widely available in cities, less so in rural areas. Many places accept cards in cities, but carry cash for rural areas, national parks, and guesthouses.

• Internet and SIM Cards Purchase a local SIM card at the airport (Kcell or Beeline are reliable carriers). Data packages are cheap and coverage is good along major routes and in cities. However, expect no signal in remote mountain areas.

• Road Conditions Major highways are generally good condition. Mountain and rural roads vary from decent gravel to challenging 4WD tracks. Always fill up with fuel before heading to remote areas.

• Safety Kazakhstan is generally very safe for travelers. Petty theft is rare. The main risks are related to driving – aggressive drivers, poor road conditions, and police checkpoints. Always carry your documents.

• Police Checkpoints Common on major highways. Have your passport, driver’s license, IDP, car registration, and insurance ready. Most checks are routine – stay polite and patient.

• Weather Extremes Kazakhstan experiences extreme temperature variations. Summer can be 40°C+ in lowlands, winter drops to -40°C. Mountain weather changes rapidly. Always pack layers and check forecasts.

Cultural Tips

• Kazakh Hospitality Kazakhs are incredibly hospitable. If invited to someone’s home, accept tea and food – refusing is considered rude. Bring a small gift if visiting a family home.

• Dress Code Kazakhstan is relatively liberal, but dress modestly when visiting mosques or rural villages. Women should cover shoulders and knees in religious sites.

• Photography Always ask permission before photographing people, especially in rural areas. Don’t photograph military installations, checkpoints, or government buildings.

• Bargaining Expected at markets and with private drivers, but not in established shops or restaurants.

Budget Summary for One Week in Kazakhstan

Based on my experience, here’s what I spent (approximate, per person):

Flights (Almaty-Astana): $75
Accommodation (6 nights): $320 ($30-60 per night average)
Car Rental (4 days driving): $240 ($60/day for SUV)
Fuel: $120
Food: $280 ($40/day average)
Activities & Entrance Fees: $60
Miscellaneous (souvenirs, tips, etc.): $80

TOTAL: Approximately $1,175 per person for one week

This is mid-range budget. You could do it cheaper by staying in hostels/guesthouses, eating at local cafes, and skipping luxury hotels. Or spend more on upscale accommodations and dining.

Best Time to Visit Kazakhstan – Monthly Breakdown

• April-May: Spring wildflowers, mild weather, fewer crowds. Some mountain roads still closed.

• June-August: Peak season. Best for mountains and lakes. Lowlands very hot (35-40°C). Crowds at popular spots.

• September-October: My favorite time. Golden autumn colors, pleasant temperatures, fewer tourists. Mountain roads still open.

• November-March: Very cold. Good for winter sports near Almaty but most national parks difficult to access.

Kazakhstan vs. Other Central Asian Countries

Having traveled extensively in Central Asia, here’s how Kazakhstan compares:

Kazakhstan is best for:

Modern cities (Almaty, Astana)
Dramatic mountain scenery (Tian Shan)
Alpine lakes
Road trip infrastructure
English signage (in tourist areas)

Kyrgyzstan is better for:

Budget travel (much cheaper)
Community-based tourism
Multi-day trekking
Yurt stays
Rural authenticity

Uzbekistan is better for:

Historical Silk Road cities
Islamic architecture
Cultural immersion
Bazaars and handicrafts

My recommendation: If you have time, combine Kazakhstan with Kyrgyzstan – they share the Tian Shan mountains and complement each other perfectly.

Final Thoughts

This one-week Kazakhstan road trip exceeded all my expectations. From the futuristic skyline of Astana to the turquoise lakes of the Tian Shan, from the dramatic Charyn Canyon to the ghostly submerged forest of Kaindy Lake – Kazakhstan proved to be one of the most diverse and visually stunning countries I’ve explored.

What struck me most was the contrast – endless flat steppe suddenly giving way to dramatic mountains, ultra-modern cities rising from ancient lands, and the blend of nomadic traditions with 21st-century ambition.

The driving was challenging at times but incredibly rewarding. Having my own vehicle allowed me to explore at my own pace, stop for photos whenever the landscape called out, and reach places impossible to access by public transport.

Kazakhstan is still relatively undiscovered by international tourists, which means you’ll have many spectacular places nearly to yourself. Go now before it becomes the next over-touristed destination!

More Kazakhstan Travel Resources

Planning your trip to Kazakhstan soon? Below are useful travel booking resources:

• Find the BEST FLIGHTS to Kazakhstan using Skyscanner or Kiwi.com – both offer excellent price comparisons and flexible date searches.

• Rent your car at THE BEST RATE with Discovercars or Localrent – compare prices across multiple providers for the best deals.

• Find PERFECT ACCOMMODATION on Booking.com, Airbnb (good for apartments in cities), or Hotels.com for price comparisons.

• Get TRAVEL INSURANCE for peace of mind – SafetyWing offers affordable coverage including COVID-related events.

• Book GUIDED TOURS on Viator or GetYourGuide – useful for hard-to-reach places like Altyn Emel or if you don’t want to drive.

• Download OFFLINE MAPS – Maps.me is essential for navigation in areas without cell coverage.

• Learn basic Russian phrases – Duolingo offers a free Russian course that’s helpful for basic communication.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is Kazakhstan safe for solo travelers? A: Yes, very safe. I felt completely secure throughout my trip. Standard precautions apply.

Q: Do I need a visa? A: Citizens of 76 countries (including USA, EU, UK, Australia) can visit Kazakhstan visa-free for up to 30 days. Check current requirements for your nationality.

Q: Can I drink the tap water? A: No, stick to bottled water. Available everywhere and inexpensive.

Q: What’s the best car to rent? A: SUV or crossover for this itinerary. Essential for Charyn Canyon, Kaindy Lake, and mountain roads.

Q: Is it better to visit Almaty or Astana? A: Both! They’re completely different experiences. Almaty for mountains and nature, Astana for modern architecture.

Q: Can I do this itinerary by public transport? A: Partially, but you’ll miss the best parts. Kolsai Lakes, Kaindy, Charyn Canyon are difficult without a car.

I hope this comprehensive Kazakhstan road trip itinerary helps you plan an unforgettable journey through this incredible country. The landscapes will blow your mind, the hospitality will warm your heart, and you’ll return home with stories that most travelers have never heard.

Safe travels, and don’t forget to share your Kazakhstan adventures!

Have questions about planning your Kazakhstan road trip? Drop a comment below and I’ll help you out!